Wheels Thread

[mj23]

everyone arguing here needs to meet at the playground for a powerslide contest

that will settle it once and for all

[LebowskisRug]

I was waiting for that card to be played (again).

Anyway, we’re all kooks here.

What card?

See your last statement I totally agree with. We'd probably actually get along in real life.

[LebowskisRug]

I would really like some Spitfire Radials although I 100% do not need them. I really wish they made more of Radials and Radial Slims because I really don't get the point of the conical angled sidewalls, which somehow catch on cracks and I get train-tracked.

[Murge]

Saw some acid side cuts. Looked nice but it’s hard to stray from spitfire and worry about flat spots and slide etc

[HugeBodBoyle]

So is the problem with the way the marketing of these has been handled? Sort of like they took a page out of the Cariuma book and just flooded the zone?

[animalflesh]

Anyone skating pig prime formula?

[j....soy.....]

All this dragon talk got me on some V3 STF’s…..

[Xen]

All this dragon talk got me on some V3 STF’s…..

Been on some V2s since they are nearly identical (just a tad slimmer) to radial slims - which until today were hard as fuck to find and I am pretty sure will continue to be - and a set of V5s. Fucking love that shape.

I find I blunt slide better on 103 STFs than 101 F4s ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[FatGuy92]

I would really like some Spitfire Radials although I 100% do not need them. I really wish they made more of Radials and Radial Slims because I really don't get the point of the conical angled sidewalls, which somehow catch on cracks and I get train-tracked.

Tactics has radial slims randomly in stock though only 52/54mm in 101A. I had a couple sets of 51mm 101A a few years back and loved them FWIW

https://www.tactics.com/spitfire/formula-four-radial-slim-skateboard-wheels/venomous-101d

*Edit: While I'm here, SkateWarehouse has lock ins in stock now too - 52mm 99A

https://www.skatewarehouse.com/Spitfire_Formula_4_Lock-In_99a_Wheels/descpage-SF4L9WH.html

[Xen]

I've weaned myself off radial slims and won't go back to them until they become a regular drop.

[LebowskisRug]

I've actually never ridden Bones because I haven't taken the time to decode all their formulas and shapes. What's the equivalent of a 99 F4?

[manysnakes]

I love a Conical Full, but I've literally only skated the F4s in 101 and 97. I've got my 101s worn down from 54 to probably ~50mm now, so I'll probably want some freshies soon - should I fuck with 99a? I almost have a hard time believing there would be a noticeable difference between 101 and 99.

[FatGuy92]

I've actually never ridden Bones because I haven't taken the time to decode all their formulas and shapes. What's the equivalent of a 99 F4?

Don't bother they suck

I love a Conical Full, but I've literally only skated the F4s in 101 and 97. I've got my 101s worn down from 54 to probably ~50mm now, so I'll probably want some freshies soon - should I fuck with 99a? I almost have a hard time believing there would be a noticeable difference between 101 and 99.

I've ridden the 99A and 101A in radial slim shape (52mm and 51mm, respectively). I wouldn't say there's a huge difference outside of what you can just assume. Obligatory Ben video share since he can probably articulate the differences a lot better than I

[FuzzGNU]

Because people keep asking a bunch of random wheel questions, I'll just rattle off what I know.

Spitfire -> Bones
Classic = V1
Tablets/Lock-Ins = V2
Classic Slim/Radial Slim = V3
Radial = V4
Conical = V5
Conical Full = V6

There are differences, but those are the ones to compare.

STF 99a WOULD be pretty great overall BUT the slide is so abysmal, unreliable, and honestly dangerous, that I say avoid them at all costs. Apparently the old bright white ones used to slide great? But the natural color ones they make now are unskateable for me. I would probably wait for the Bones 95a/97a wheels to come out if you're really curious about something like STF 99a. It really shocks me whenever I see or hear a pro riding STF 99a. My experience was truly awful in terms of the slide randomly going from extremely sticky to zero friction at all.

I love a Conical Full, but I've literally only skated the F4s in 101 and 97. I've got my 101s worn down from 54 to probably ~50mm now, so I'll probably want some freshies soon - should I fuck with 99a? I almost have a hard time believing there would be a noticeable difference between 101 and 99.

F4 99a are a lot more fun than F4 97a in my opinion, but definitely will struggle with the really crusty spots unlike 97a. They slide A LOT better than 97a from my experience. If you're doing typical street skating at some relatively clean spots, they are some of the best ~99a range wheel you can get alongside Dragon 93a (which feel somewhere in between those two wheels to me).

I haven't skated F4 101a, but F4 99a are definitely a more appropriate wheel for any slight crust than say STF 103a or OJ Elite 101a are. I definitely recommend them to take the edge off, but don't expect to be able to skate to and from every spot with them like you can with F4 97a... but once you're at the spot, you will be glad you're not on F4 97a anymore IMO.

[mj23]

Clayton Graul did a little review of the Powell dragon formula on his ig

http://www.instagram.com/reel/ChT0udeAeiK/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

This guy has made a ton of fun DIYs around LA and he isn’t some YouTuber kook. His basic takeaway is that the dragons work great as a cruiser wheel that can actually slide, but they aren’t going to magically replace most serious street or transition skaters’ current favorites

[LebowskisRug]

I find that the wheel shape really effects F4 performance on certain ground types. I loved 54 conical fulls and OG classics when I commuted and hit a few pretty gnarly spots. While not the same diameter 52-53 Classics were definitely more harsh and would slow over really bad crumble.

Right now I have 54 Classic Fulls worn down to 52. They're 34 wide, 22.5 contact patch and kinda like a slightly worn Radial. Basically a perfect wheel.

[BMCsteve]

Cross post from the other Dragons thread to see if I'm the only one experiencing this -

After a 3 hour session, it seemed like I was having to push more or the wheels just weren’t as fast.

The bearings were shifting around slightly and causing my wheels to get tight.  I would have to use my thumbs to push the outside of the wheel against the hanger or axle nut in order to get them seated and spinning correctly.

I’ve only had this issue with Radial Slims previously.  I’m not sure if it’s a bearing seat issue or how soft the wheels are.

Anyone else had this happen?

[GardenSkater77]

Cross post from the other Dragons thread to see if I'm the only one experiencing this -

After a 3 hour session, it seemed like I was having to push more or the wheels just weren’t as fast.

The bearings were shifting around slightly and causing my wheels to get tight.  I would have to use my thumbs to push the outside of the wheel against the hanger or axle nut in order to get them seated and spinning correctly.

I’ve only had this issue with Radial Slims previously.  I’m not sure if it’s a bearing seat issue or how soft the wheels are.

Anyone else had this happen?

Temperature can be a factor with soft wheels also. I did notice that I could push my bearings in with my thumb and that is not a great start for new wheels. Now I am running my wheels with less play in the axel than I like, but hopefully the bearings won’t shift.

[BMCsteve]

Expand Quote

Cross post from the other Dragons thread to see if I'm the only one experiencing this -

After a 3 hour session, it seemed like I was having to push more or the wheels just weren’t as fast.

The bearings were shifting around slightly and causing my wheels to get tight.  I would have to use my thumbs to push the outside of the wheel against the hanger or axle nut in order to get them seated and spinning correctly.

I’ve only had this issue with Radial Slims previously.  I’m not sure if it’s a bearing seat issue or how soft the wheels are.

Anyone else had this happen?

[close]

Temperature can be a factor with soft wheels also. I did notice that I could push my bearings in with my thumb and that is not a great start for new wheels. Now I am running my wheels with less play in the axel than I like, but hopefully the bearings won’t shift.

Good point about the temperature.  It was in the low 90's out when this happened.  I'll continue skating them to see if this keeps happening

[j....soy.....]

Expand Quote

All this dragon talk got me on some V3 STF’s…..

[close]

Been on some V2s since they are nearly identical (just a tad slimmer) to radial slims - which until today were hard as fuck to find and I am pretty sure will continue to be - and a set of V5s. Fucking love that shape.

I find I blunt slide better on 103 STFs than 101 F4s ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I always thought the tablets were the same no?  That’s why I always liked v2’s because they look like tablets.  I got v3’s because I figure they will wear down nicely into just really small wheels…

[manysnakes]

Expand Quote

Cross post from the other Dragons thread to see if I'm the only one experiencing this -

After a 3 hour session, it seemed like I was having to push more or the wheels just weren’t as fast.

The bearings were shifting around slightly and causing my wheels to get tight.  I would have to use my thumbs to push the outside of the wheel against the hanger or axle nut in order to get them seated and spinning correctly.

I’ve only had this issue with Radial Slims previously.  I’m not sure if it’s a bearing seat issue or how soft the wheels are.

Anyone else had this happen?

[close]

Temperature can be a factor with soft wheels also. I did notice that I could push my bearings in with my thumb and that is not a great start for new wheels. Now I am running my wheels with less play in the axel than I like, but hopefully the bearings won’t shift.

This is very true. My 97a Spitfires would become super mushy feeling (more so than they already did) at any temperature over ~80°f, and god help you if they get wet. On the other hand, skating on a 40°F day and they could actually bark on skatepark concrete.

[Xen]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

All this dragon talk got me on some V3 STF’s…..

[close]

Been on some V2s since they are nearly identical (just a tad slimmer) to radial slims - which until today were hard as fuck to find and I am pretty sure will continue to be - and a set of V5s. Fucking love that shape.

I find I blunt slide better on 103 STFs than 101 F4s ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[close]

I always thought the tablets were the same no?  That’s why I always liked v2’s because they look like tablets.  I got v3’s because I figure they will wear down nicely into just really small wheels…

Yeah, they are super close, V2s have a more rounded lip like the Radial slim and height being equal (52mm), a smaller riding surface than either tablet or RSlim. 52 V2/V3 are identical width and contact, just different lip.

The Ricta Nyjal Super Slim is still [was] the best. Slimmer than all of the above in all aspects. Shame they're gone for good since he's not on the team anymore/the ricta super slim natural isn't the same as the nyjal.

[fs1/2cab]

Cross post from the other Dragons thread to see if I'm the only one experiencing this -

After a 3 hour session, it seemed like I was having to push more or the wheels just weren’t as fast.

The bearings were shifting around slightly and causing my wheels to get tight.  I would have to use my thumbs to push the outside of the wheel against the hanger or axle nut in order to get them seated and spinning correctly.

I’ve only had this issue with Radial Slims previously.  I’m not sure if it’s a bearing seat issue or how soft the wheels are.

Anyone else had this happen?

Do you use spacers in these wheels?

Sometimes the spacers can be too long which then cause the bearings to shift and your wheels getting stuck over time. Just my experience with other softer wheels.

[BMCsteve]

Expand Quote

Cross post from the other Dragons thread to see if I'm the only one experiencing this -

After a 3 hour session, it seemed like I was having to push more or the wheels just weren’t as fast.

The bearings were shifting around slightly and causing my wheels to get tight.  I would have to use my thumbs to push the outside of the wheel against the hanger or axle nut in order to get them seated and spinning correctly.

I’ve only had this issue with Radial Slims previously.  I’m not sure if it’s a bearing seat issue or how soft the wheels are.

Anyone else had this happen?

[close]

Do you use spacers in these wheels?

Sometimes the spacers can be too long which then cause the bearings to shift and your wheels getting stuck over time. Just my experience with other softer wheels.

No spacers because having previously used them in other wheels, I experienced the same issue.  Wheel tolerances are terrible so spacers rarely work as intended

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

Cross post from the other Dragons thread to see if I'm the only one experiencing this -

After a 3 hour session, it seemed like I was having to push more or the wheels just weren’t as fast.

The bearings were shifting around slightly and causing my wheels to get tight.  I would have to use my thumbs to push the outside of the wheel against the hanger or axle nut in order to get them seated and spinning correctly.

I’ve only had this issue with Radial Slims previously.  I’m not sure if it’s a bearing seat issue or how soft the wheels are.

Anyone else had this happen?

[close]

Do you use spacers in these wheels?

Sometimes the spacers can be too long which then cause the bearings to shift and your wheels getting stuck over time. Just my experience with other softer wheels.

The bearings can definitely move, even with spacers. but tightened down will not move as much.  I normally have a lot of play in my wheels, but some like that set, I had to have almost no play and make sure the spacers were a good length too.

I had some softer Spitfire wheels that I rode on a slippery ramp I used to skate all the time.  Whenever I did certain tricks like pushed hard into smith grinds, that pressure on the wheel would push it off center on the bearings, which took me a bit to work out, but after every run, I would push and pull the wheels to get the bearings back in to where they were supposed to be to get them freely spinning again.

That overall was such a pain, but I got used to doing it after a while, so it was not too bad.  Have a run, stop, push and pull (click click) and have another run.

When I had the chance to change wheels, I never looked back though.



* Re spacers, I almost forgot, but I found with some brands, I could tighten the nuts down equally on both sides, then tighten it another half turn or so which crushed the spacers in a bit, which made them fit in the wheels better.  Not recommended for any and every situation (as I could see bearings being crushed too) but it did work when there was too much length in the spacers and they fit better as a result.

I used to do that to even up axle slip on older trucks, which was a common problem once, so just happened on it by mistake really, but it worked.

[Uncle Flea]

i likely got in the habit of spacers sometime in the 92-97a era. late 80s. i never had a wheel kick the bearings out till the late 90s. i seen it happen extreamly bad to the homie. all four Omar OJ sigs would push out. if you tried to tighten the axles the wheels wouldn't roll. he road them for like 2 years anyway. loose and funny looking

[rocklobster]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

All this dragon talk got me on some V3 STF’s…..

[close]

Been on some V2s since they are nearly identical (just a tad slimmer) to radial slims - which until today were hard as fuck to find and I am pretty sure will continue to be - and a set of V5s. Fucking love that shape.

I find I blunt slide better on 103 STFs than 101 F4s ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[close]

I always thought the tablets were the same no?  That’s why I always liked v2’s because they look like tablets.  I got v3’s because I figure they will wear down nicely into just really small wheels…

[close]

Yeah, they are super close, V2s have a more rounded lip like the Radial slim and height being equal (52mm), a smaller riding surface than either tablet or RSlim. 52 V2/V3 are identical width and contact, just different lip.

The Ricta Nyjal Super Slim is still [was] the best. Slimmer than all of the above in all aspects. Shame they're gone for good since he's not on the team anymore/the ricta super slim natural isn't the same as the nyjal.

Have you tried Satori? They have some very skinny wheels, with a narrow contact patch.

[CaptainCheeks]

Looks like Nick Boserio is testing the OG combo shape in 56 mm with same width and contact patch as the 60mm hopefully OJ makes enough because these would be a fun set of wheels to skate

[j....soy.....]

Cross post from the other Dragons thread to see if I'm the only one experiencing this -

After a 3 hour session, it seemed like I was having to push more or the wheels just weren’t as fast.

The bearings were shifting around slightly and causing my wheels to get tight.  I would have to use my thumbs to push the outside of the wheel against the hanger or axle nut in order to get them seated and spinning correctly.

I’ve only had this issue with Radial Slims previously.  I’m not sure if it’s a bearing seat issue or how soft the wheels are.

Anyone else had this happen?

Maybe that’s why they ran the test ones with cores?  Not sure why they would switch back if this is an issue.  Bones historically have the most accurate cores but maybe with the new formula there is some give….

[saltusnaut]

Looks like Nick Boserio is testing the OG combo shape in 56 mm with same width and contact patch as the 60mm hopefully OJ makes enough because these would be a fun set of wheels to skate

the graphic clearly says 60mm.
Maybe they're 56mm wide?