Gear madness support thread

[Slave IV]

Been trying to catch up here for a while.

For shoes, I mentioned a while back I was having gear madness with shoes and decks not wearing out, or at least my willingness to accept they are worn out, fast enough. My Blazer Mids lasted around 2 years and I was trying to retire them but even though the soles were worn less than paper thin, they wouldn't wear all the way through all summer. Someone suggested I probably shouldn't wait that long because they probably were more detrimental to my feet and performance and I agreed so I finally put them away. They definitely felt weird walking in because the soles were significantly worn in the skate intensive spots and very uneven. The $20 Walmart Etnies I replaced them with are on the third month and I've already worn a hole through one of the soles. Funny thing on those is the top is holding up really well and I haven't even shoegooed them yet. So now I know where they skimped on those things.

As for wheelbase, I've been wanting to try lower WB and have a 8.125 wb deck to setup when I'm done with my current ones. I'm expecting to like it and end up sticking to 14 or a bit over/under.

On another note, I think I have solved my wheel madness! I've been thinking I need to try Classic shaped wheels to help me unlock from crooks and I tired with some old Rictas I had but even though I noticed a bit of difference, they didn't help much. The other day, I was looking at some new FF Classics and then glanced at the 20+ year old wheels I have had siting on my skateboard rack and it triggered that those were shaped pretty much the exact same way. Threw them on and tried them on some curbs and I was quickly able to pop out of crooks very consistently, when I have never done one clean before that and only able to land consistently going off the end of a parking curb. It was one of the most satisfying sessions for me in a long time. I took some rough measurements of the wheel, and they are around 53mm (look like at least 56mm when new), 34mm wide, 20mm riding surface and 101 or higher duro because they feel like rocks to me. I've only been skating 99 and 97 recently. No idea what brand they are but most likely blanks but those numbers match up really close to new Classic Fulls, which are the wheels I theoretically came to the conclusion I wanted. Now, my madness is not knowing what factors are making such a huge difference when I buy my next wheels. I'm just going to ride these old wheels for now but when it comes time, is it just the shape or is it the hardness that is helping me unlock so easily? I have a feeling the hardness is a factor because the Rictas I tried were similar shape but softer and I was hoping to wait for Classic Fulls to come out in the 97 euro or should I just get the 99s that just came out?

[swongolianbbq]

I didn't like how the more square shapes felt on crooks especially in softer duros

I'm on some 99a F4 bighead shape right now, like them a lot.

Worn-down 55/56mm classics are the shit, but I get so thrown off putting a new set back on since there's a pretty decent difference in width and weight between the 54s and 56s

Would be cool if they had bighead/classic full in all the duros that regular classics are in, but it's prolly not gonna happen except for one-off/seasonal releases so if they do any F4 bigheads or F4 classic fulls, stock up

[Sedition]

...cause 8.5 x 14.25 and 8.25 x 14.25 are industry standard right now...


...But man, with 14.25, you just got so many more choices...

The average U.S. male is 5'9" tall. My guess, is that ratio wise, 14.25 is "idea" for someone that tall / respective inseam...which is why 14.25 is the most commonly found WB. I am just hair under 5'11". Not too surprisingly, 14.38-14.5 feels the best to me. 14.25" (and under) is just...wrong. 

[Slave IV]

I didn't like how the more square shapes felt on crooks especially in softer duros

I'm on some 99a F4 bighead shape right now, like them a lot.

Worn-down 55/56mm classics are the shit, but I get so thrown off putting a new set back on since there's a pretty decent difference in width and weight between the 54s and 56s

Would be cool if they had bighead/classic full in all the duros that regular classics are in, but it's prolly not gonna happen except for one-off/seasonal releases so if they do any F4 bigheads or F4 classic fulls, stock up

I’m pretty new to riding Spitfires. Are you saying the chances of them making Classic Fulls in new 97 duro, 52-54mm are slim or if they do, it could be difficult to come across? Trying to resist temptation of picking up the current 53 99 Classic Fulls.

[Jort250]

I didn't like how the more square shapes felt on crooks especially in softer duros

I'm on some 99a F4 bighead shape right now, like them a lot.

Worn-down 55/56mm classics are the shit, but I get so thrown off putting a new set back on since there's a pretty decent difference in width and weight between the 54s and 56s

Would be cool if they had bighead/classic full in all the duros that regular classics are in, but it's prolly not gonna happen except for one-off/seasonal releases so if they do any F4 bigheads or F4 classic fulls, stock up

I tried tablets once and had a a similar experience. Unless you’re skating really rough ledges, the square edge kind of locks you into a specific pinch whereas the classic shape lets you shift around

[tzhangdox]

Expand Quote

I didn't like how the more square shapes felt on crooks especially in softer duros

I'm on some 99a F4 bighead shape right now, like them a lot.

Worn-down 55/56mm classics are the shit, but I get so thrown off putting a new set back on since there's a pretty decent difference in width and weight between the 54s and 56s

Would be cool if they had bighead/classic full in all the duros that regular classics are in, but it's prolly not gonna happen except for one-off/seasonal releases so if they do any F4 bigheads or F4 classic fulls, stock up

[close]

I tried tablets once and had a a similar experience. Unless you’re skating really rough ledges, the square edge kind of locks you into a specific pinch whereas the classic shape lets you shift around

Yeah I agree. I have a theory that the ideal pinch on a ledge is when one point of contact is sharp and the other is round.

So on most decently sharp ledges, a rounder wheel is nicer for pinching.

But if the ledge is really chunky and rounded, then a sharp edge/square wheel helps you hold it, you also dont have the problem of the super specific pinch since the ledge is rounded.

If you have a round ledge and round wheels, it doesn't hold very well.

If you have sharp ledge and sharp/square edge wheels, it can feel a little "bitey"

Could all be bullshit in my head though

[swongolianbbq]

Expand Quote

I didn't like how the more square shapes felt on crooks especially in softer duros

I'm on some 99a F4 bighead shape right now, like them a lot.

Worn-down 55/56mm classics are the shit, but I get so thrown off putting a new set back on since there's a pretty decent difference in width and weight between the 54s and 56s

Would be cool if they had bighead/classic full in all the duros that regular classics are in, but it's prolly not gonna happen except for one-off/seasonal releases so if they do any F4 bigheads or F4 classic fulls, stock up

[close]

I’m pretty new to riding Spitfires. Are you saying the chances of them making Classic Fulls in new 97 duro, 52-54mm are slim or if they do, it could be difficult to come across? Trying to resist temptation of picking up the current 53 99 Classic Fulls.

Yeah I figure it's prolly a slim chance they make classic full, 97a, 52-54mm any time soon. Hopefully they do though.

If you have the means, machining/grinding the riding surface of a 56mm 93a or 97a classic down to 54mm is an option

99a F4 53mm classic fulls and  99a F4 54mm bigheads and maybe some other ones are out there, look on shoplurker. There's always a full run of classic duro, non-F4 bigheads.

I think I'm just gonna stick to 54mm classics in whatever duro cause it's what's most consistently available

[Rick Trapasso]

As a frequent crooked grinder, I would agree that square edge wheels don't feel great on them. I prefer a larger round edge wheel and have ridden mostly 56mm classic 99a f4 for years now.

That extra "bite" from a square edge wheel can help on front crooks (Jamie foy) but more wax is almost a certainty for that to work well. At least for me any way.

Speed probably plays a part too, and although I try to skate fast, I'm sure that most pros skating square edge wheels are probably charging way harder than my dumbass lol.

[DarkPools]

I've been incredibly averse to the "classic" shape of Spitfire, Bones, etc. for at least 10 years. Visually,  it just bugs me and they would fall out of grinds all the time. Narrow, slim, dainty just not pleasing to me

Switched to conical/OG classic shapes for a long while. Stable and locked in on grinds. However,  my crooks sometimes "bite" more than they used to. It could be the square wheel/square ledge phenomenon ^^^ above mentioned.

I have some radials I'm gonna skate soon as a slow move towards the classic shape. Maybe I need to try a bigger F4 Classic size: 54-58 and wear them down so they're halfway between a conical and a Classic. That is, IF radials don't work as the happy medium between classic & og classic/conical fulls

[Slave IV]

Same, I thought “classic” shapes were too old tech and most of all, too skinny so I’ve mostly been riding Conicals, specifically full sizes like F4 CF or NanoCubics, which are a conical shape on the inside. I was noticing my NanoCubics squeak a lot on crooks but not sure if that was because they are pretty new, or the Dragon 97 formula. Didn’t think it was the shape since I don’t notice it as much or at all with F4 CFs.

Are most of you saying it’s the grind or lock in that bothers you with more squared shapes? Because that part, I’m ok with. It’s the pop out I’ve been having trouble with that the classic shape has helped with.

On the note of grinding down regular Classics, I don’t want to deal with that, which is where the Classic Full shape comes in for me. I don’t think Radials are going to cut it for me based on my shape diagram overlays I posted and my limited experimenting with similar wheel shapes although I have not specifically tried F4 Radials.  For all purposes, the 53mm 99 Classic Fulls that just came out should be perfect for me but I’m just greedy and really want to try the same size and shape in their new 97 duro.

[swongolianbbq]

I mean, regular classic 54s are listed as 33.6 wide and the mushroom classic full 53s are listed as 33.5 wide

You could just get 54mm classics in the new 97 and they're literally the same width as classic full 53s, and will wear down. It's .5 mm height difference and shouldn't affect your skating at all

The jump from 54 to 55/56 in classics is much bigger in width and weight though. I really wanted 56mm classics to work for me but I'm just not a big wheel dude. I might try them again in 93a. It's such a good lookin wheel

There's like three different wheels in the classic range, the smaller ones up to 54, bigger ones from 55 to 58, and 60s are on their own(and the same width as 54mm radial fulls, if you like worn-in 60s without the work). They just don't have a "worn in 56" available right now. So classic 54s it is, for me, for prolly forever

[Slave IV]

Hmmm, I did not realize the sizes were so close. That's certainly an option then. Thanks!

[Rick Trapasso]

I urge anyone who hasn't tried classics to give them a shot if interested.

[Sedition]

I didn't post about it here, but about four months ago I went through a bit of deck madness.  It hadn't happened in quite awhile, and that little bout confirmed my current set-up choices, so, that was good, actually.  It's been smooth sailing since then (and I actually got rid of/gave away all my extra madness-related gear). I only have one set-up now (not inc. cruiser, polarizer, etc.), and I am really happy with it.

There is, however, one thing left I've wanted to try. 151 T-2s (with much harder bushings) on my 8.75 deck. Tactics is have a 20% off sale, so I just got a set for $42 bucks. Can't say no that.  If I don't like them, anyone on here can have them for free (just pay shipping).

Updates to come...

 

[Slave IV]

I might be going into a similar madness soon too. I’ve never owned Ventures before but I have a new set of standards I’m going to try on my next setup.

[moykky]

Same, I thought “classic” shapes were too old tech and most of all, too skinny so I’ve mostly been riding Conicals, specifically full sizes like F4 CF or NanoCubics, which are a conical shape on the inside. I was noticing my NanoCubics squeak a lot on crooks but not sure if that was because they are pretty new, or the Dragon 97 formula. Didn’t think it was the shape since I don’t notice it as much or at all with F4 CFs.

Are most of you saying it’s the grind or lock in that bothers you with more squared shapes? Because that part, I’m ok with. It’s the pop out I’ve been having trouble with that the classic shape has helped with.

On the note of grinding down regular Classics, I don’t want to deal with that, which is where the Classic Full shape comes in for me. I don’t think Radials are going to cut it for me based on my shape diagram overlays I posted and my limited experimenting with similar wheel shapes although I have not specifically tried F4 Radials.  For all purposes, the 53mm 99 Classic Fulls that just came out should be perfect for me but I’m just greedy and really want to try the same size and shape in their new 97 duro.

Hehee, I've always thought that Classics are the NEW tech, we used to ride those big wide wheels in the 80's...

I'm maybe more hyped about the new compounds (softer, slidability) used in wheels than the shapes. I suck regardless of the shape, but suck at least more comfortably...

[MMongrel]

I've been a wide wheel only guy but I just bought a set of 54 Pig Wheels in a classic shape on sale. Just to try the shape out again in the spring for fun and because I've been skating a lot more ledges and flatground lately.

Used to skate Classic shapes when I was young just because that was just something that was around and I really didn't think about wheel shapes at all then. Now that I've skated regularly again for a few years I've only skated wider contact patch wheels in the 55-56 range and a high trucks, sometimes with risers and I feel it has only benefited my skating. Also with the four seasons here it's a lot less cumbersome to skate around with a bigger wheel than some 52mm rocks haha.

[Hqjdncm]

To the last like 5 posts above,
I too really didn’t like how classic shaped wheels looked and thought they were the tech guy wheel. I bought into the wide/square wheel trend pretty early into my skating and was mainly skating transition too so I didn’t really seem to notice the affect on certain tricks. I also had not gotten the madness yet…
I moved and have been skating street and street plazas almost exclusively and finally started feeling like the big wide wheels were hindering me a bit. Heavy and square made my board hard to flip and like others have said, made me struggle with crooks
I bought the classic fulls in 53, and I now feel completely different about the look of them, and I’m not the most tech skater, but for me at least the switch has been more positive than negative (honestly no negatives at all).

[Mbrimson88]

I didn't post about it here, but about four months ago I went through a bit of deck madness.  It hadn't happened in quite awhile, and that little bout confirmed my current set-up choices, so, that was good, actually.  It's been smooth sailing since then (and I actually got rid of/gave away all my extra madness-related gear). I only have one set-up now (not inc. cruiser, polarizer, etc.), and I am really happy with it.

There is, however, one thing left I've wanted to try. 151 T-2s (with much harder bushings) on my 8.75 deck. Tactics is have a 20% off sale, so I just got a set for $42 bucks. Can't say no that.  If I don't like them, anyone on here can have them for free (just pay shipping).

Updates to come...

The biggest thing to note with the T-II bushings, if things just feel way too soft and mushy, wipe them all down - the bushings, the washers, whatever they contact, then try them again.  Also leaving the board for a bit once you had a session or two on them, which gave mine a bit of time to firm up and sure enough, they actually firmed up more than the 94 duro Thunder bushings I have on another board, so I had to let them off half a turn.

Also after a few sessions, I felt like they were well worn in, bounced back nicely and had none - zero - of the initial wobbly loose, unbalanced feeling of them when I first put them on a board.  I guess anyone could have their own views of how they work, but this is what happened for me.

I set up two sets on identical boards, just to see, one with the stock bushings, then one with a test of regular Thunder 90, 94, 95, 97 and 100s and the 100s felt a touch firm but they were very good to go right from the first session.  They were all pre broken in bushings though, as I have some for testing, but even a set of new Thunder bushings, wiped off and good to go after one or two sessions of mellow rolling around.


For once, madness free for the T-II trucks, especially after reading all the things about them being way too loose to start with, which they absolutely were to me at first too.


* I have both sets of my Thunder T-II trucks with the kingpins in about the same position as my Indy trucks, eg back kingpin down two threads, front down one thread, then angle grinded off the excess kingpin to have everything flush, which also gives me more kingpin clearance, especially on the back truck for all the decker smith variations I like to do.

[Amocat]

Same, I thought “classic” shapes were too old tech and most of all, too skinny so I’ve mostly been riding Conicals, specifically full sizes like F4 CF or NanoCubics, which are a conical shape on the inside. I was noticing my NanoCubics squeak a lot on crooks but not sure if that was because they are pretty new, or the Dragon 97 formula. Didn’t think it was the shape since I don’t notice it as much or at all with F4 CFs.

Are most of you saying it’s the grind or lock in that bothers you with more squared shapes? Because that part, I’m ok with. It’s the pop out I’ve been having trouble with that the classic shape has helped with.

On the note of grinding down regular Classics, I don’t want to deal with that, which is where the Classic Full shape comes in for me. I don’t think Radials are going to cut it for me based on my shape diagram overlays I posted and my limited experimenting with similar wheel shapes although I have not specifically tried F4 Radials.  For all purposes, the 53mm 99 Classic Fulls that just came out should be perfect for me but I’m just greedy and really want to try the same size and shape in their new 97 duro.

I have a set of the 52mm 97 nano cubic that squeak on coping a lot, these were from when they first came out. I also have some of the wide 54 nano rats in 97, they barely ever squeak. Not sure if the formula got tweaked or size difference, they have both been skated pretty much the same as for being broken in. Hot and cold weather even. It's a mystery to me.

[Sedition]

Expand Quote

I didn't post about it here, but about four months ago I went through a bit of deck madness.  It hadn't happened in quite awhile, and that little bout confirmed my current set-up choices, so, that was good, actually.  It's been smooth sailing since then (and I actually got rid of/gave away all my extra madness-related gear). I only have one set-up now (not inc. cruiser, polarizer, etc.), and I am really happy with it.

There is, however, one thing left I've wanted to try. 151 T-2s (with much harder bushings) on my 8.75 deck. Tactics is have a 20% off sale, so I just got a set for $42 bucks. Can't say no that.  If I don't like them, anyone on here can have them for free (just pay shipping).

Updates to come...

[close]

The biggest thing to note with the T-II bushings, if things just feel way too soft and mushy, wipe them all down - the bushings, the washers, whatever they contact, then try them again.  Also leaving the board for a bit once you had a session or two on them, which gave mine a bit of time to firm up and sure enough, they actually firmed up more than the 94 duro Thunder bushings I have on another board, so I had to let them off half a turn.

Also after a few sessions, I felt like they were well worn in, bounced back nicely and had none - zero - of the initial wobbly loose, unbalanced feeling of them when I first put them on a board.  I guess anyone could have their own views of how they work, but this is what happened for me.

I set up two sets on identical boards, just to see, one with the stock bushings, then one with a test of regular Thunder 90, 94, 95, 97 and 100s and the 100s felt a touch firm but they were very good to go right from the first session.  They were all pre broken in bushings though, as I have some for testing, but even a set of new Thunder bushings, wiped off and good to go after one or two sessions of mellow rolling around.


For once, madness free for the T-II trucks, especially after reading all the things about them being way too loose to start with, which they absolutely were to me at first too.


* I have both sets of my Thunder T-II trucks with the kingpins in about the same position as my Indy trucks, eg back kingpin down two threads, front down one thread, then angle grinded off the excess kingpin to have everything flush, which also gives me more kingpin clearance, especially on the back truck for all the decker smith variations I like to do.

Noted, and thanks! I ride 92a blue barrel Indy in my Indys, so I like things little more towards "extra medium." I also have a set of 100a and 97a Thunder bushings coming with the T-2s, so I'll get to mess around a bit with them.

[Rick Trapasso]

Brothers,

As of today, I have given away all my different trucks and wheels that I would swap between during fits of madness.

I feel clean, and whole once more.

After all this time I have settled on some of the most common and readily available components. 8.38 14.5 wb dlx, 149 Indy standards, 56mm 99a f4 classics.

My Christmas wish is for everyone here to find this kind of peace in the upcoming new year.

Bless you all and may your madness be settled. I love you.

[FrAnKenFrEd]

I didn't post about it here, but about four months ago I went through a bit of deck madness.  It hadn't happened in quite awhile, and that little bout confirmed my current set-up choices, so, that was good, actually.  It's been smooth sailing since then (and I actually got rid of/gave away all my extra madness-related gear). I only have one set-up now (not inc. cruiser, polarizer, etc.), and I am really happy with it.

There is, however, one thing left I've wanted to try. 151 T-2s (with much harder bushings) on my 8.75 deck. Tactics is have a 20% off sale, so I just got a set for $42 bucks. Can't say no that.  If I don't like them, anyone on here can have them for free (just pay shipping).

Updates to come...

I'm still really digging my T2s (151s) but please be patient with those stock bushings. They start too soft and almost mushy, to firmer and then soft but with better rebound. It is a staged break in. Now mine are fully broken in they feel like a slightly improved Stage 11, in my estimation. 1mm lower, lighter, better KP clearance and better shaped baseplates for nose and tail slides. However, in saying all that, I still think I prefer Ace. Ace just work for the type of skateboarding I mostly do, bowls and curbs. I was skating a deep bowl yesterday and the T2s gave me a few scary wobbly moments where I knew my Ace would feel reliably predictable.... anyway... that's me...

I know the madness will make sure I rotate between Ace and T2s...

[moonordie]

I've been of madness already for a while but I know it's coming since my Lurpivs don't have that much life left and I have T2 and V8 on ice.
I can feel it creeping on me.

[Sedition]

Brothers,

As of today, I have given away all my different trucks and wheels that I would swap between during fits of madness.

I feel clean, and whole once more.

After all this time I have settled on some of the most common and readily available components. 8.38 14.5 wb dlx, 149 Indy standards, 56mm 99a f4 classics.

My Christmas wish is for everyone here to find this kind of peace in the upcoming new year.

Bless you all and may your madness be settled. I love you.

Congrats!

[Sedition]

Not really a per-se Madness thing, but this seems like a good place to post it.

I just did something…dramatic. Tactics is a 20% sale, so….I just ordered some Swiss ceramics. Always been curious about them…now we’ll find out.

[Mbrimson88]

Not really a per-se Madness thing, but this seems like a good place to post it.

I just did something…dramatic. Tactics is a 20% sale, so….I just ordered some Swiss ceramics. Always been curious about them…now we’ll find out.

Of all the usual things, bearings are one that I don't ever take for granted these days, even though I have been testing a number of cheap bearings, just to see how they hold up.

Coming from riding regular Swiss for quite a while, changing down to any other more basic bearings is one thing, but changing up to Swiss Ceramics, it will be interesting to see what you say about them.

What were you riding before, or have had in the past?

[Sedition]

Expand Quote

Not really a per-se Madness thing, but this seems like a good place to post it.

I just did something…dramatic. Tactics is a 20% sale, so….I just ordered some Swiss ceramics. Always been curious about them…now we’ll find out.

[close]

Of all the usual things, bearings are one that I don't ever take for granted these days, even though I have been testing a number of cheap bearings, just to see how they hold up.

Coming from riding regular Swiss for quite a while, changing down to any other more basic bearings is one thing, but changing up to Swiss Ceramics, it will be interesting to see what you say about them.

What were you riding before, or have had in the past?

Religious Swiss 6 rider. After getting on those, would never consider anything less. Never had Ceremics.

[Schinken]

Need some advice. Currently I'm riding standard 159 independents. Almost cured my gear madness. Even found myself putting the spare madness setup back in to the trunk without trying it and continued to ride my normal setup with indies.

There is one thing that makes me curious. Hollow or forged hollow vs standard. Is it worth it? Will 80g less weight really make a difference? I know I should probably just keep skating my standard 159s...

[Rick Trapasso]

Need some advice. Currently I'm riding standard 159 independents. Almost cured my gear madness. Even found myself putting the spare madness setup back in to the trunk without trying it and continued to ride my normal setup with indies.

There is one thing that makes me curious. Hollow or forged hollow vs standard. Is it worth it? Will 80g less weight really make a difference? I know I should probably just keep skating my standard 159s...

As someone who just went back and forth on all combos of standards/hollow/forged I will say that you should just stay on standards if you can manage the weight.

The not so obvious benefit of standards is the overall feel of the truck while riding. A solid axel, cast truck provides the best ride in my opinion.

This is all incredibly subjective of course. But the standards tend to push through grinds better and feel more damp and less rattle-y if that makes any sense. While it may take more energy to influence how the board moves, what this also means is that once the board is moving it tends to follow through whatever motion and is disrupted less easily. Hard to describe entirely.


 If you're used to the weight and feel I'd stick with em. Maybe size down to 149 if your board can accommodate that reasonably. Also want to consider the height changed if you go to forged. 1.5mm shorter than cast. So about half a riser pad difference.