questions that don't deserve their own thread

[Solex]

@Woodshop yeah, memories can be a strange thing sometimes.

Anyway. Thanks to the pals who helped me with these old stuffs.

Just curious...2 days ago I assembled a set-up and it was the first time I used a blade to cut the griptaoe around the board. Back in the days my homies and I just scratched the outline with an hard tool (or against something made of concrete) until the grip's outline naturaly break, and we just had to pull on and that was finished. I guess we went that way because the owner of our favorite skateshop did it like that, don't remember exactly.

Anyone else use/used this method?

[goodatmeth]

In which shape can I cut a bushing in order to make it feel as soft as possible for a very lightweight child?
I did this to standard thunders and it made it significantly better, but I guess there has to be some kind of sweet spot shape and someone might have done the experiments already.

[LebowskisRug]

Most of the compression happens vertically so I’d just cut 2mm off the top bushing first then maybe sand the bottom or do what Ishod does and run 2 tops

[Woodshop]

@Woodshop yeah, memories can be a strange thing sometimes.

Anyway. Thanks to the pals who helped me with these old stuffs.

Just curious...2 days ago I assembled a set-up and it was the first time I used a blade to cut the griptaoe around the board. Back in the days my homies and I just scratched the outline with an hard tool (or against something made of concrete) until the grip's outline naturaly break, and we just had to pull on and that was finished. I guess we went that way because the owner of our favorite skateshop did it like that, don't remember exactly.

Anyone else use/used this method?

We used to use a big raw file to do the edges in one place, but compared to just running the side of a screwdriver round and then a razor blade, everything else just seems time consuming and redundant nowdays.

Out at skateparks when people had to set up boards, I recall one guy just using the edge of his baseplate to hack at his grip, which worked for all the older stuff like Jessup but would give him the biggest problems when grip got a lot thicker and needed a blade to actually cut it.

Like a lot of others, I still ride only the normal Jessup and that still works with any method or doing the edge with almost anything, but most other brands nowdays are thicker and need something sharp to cut through it.

Also gripping twenty or more boards in a day at peak skate shop hours (2005 or so) had to be quick and precise, so I know we got really good at just getting the grip on and not even doing the screwdriver line round it, just blade it off and grip scrap to clean up the edge.

We often would have friendly arguments about where the grip should come to, some saying it should go right over the edge and others saying you should always see the top layer of wood on the board, so it was interesting to see the different jobs by different people from the same place.  Regular customers would come back in and you knew who gripped the board by how much top ply or completely covering the edge it was.

I liked to always see top ply stains on my boards.

[Mbrimson88]

In which shape can I cut a bushing in order to make it feel as soft as possible for a very lightweight child?
I did this to standard thunders and it made it significantly better, but I guess there has to be some kind of sweet spot shape and someone might have done the experiments already.

Most of the compression happens vertically so I’d just cut 2mm off the top bushing first then maybe sand the bottom or do what Ishod does and run 2 tops

Yes, just take a mm or two off the bottom of the top bushings and everything will still work exactly as it should while loosening up the trucks significantly.

I have used this method for lots of boards for kids and others who needed looser trucks without them having to buy new bushings.

Given you have shaved those bushings down so much, you could cut the top off in that case.

Not sure if you can use the link but I had put up a bushing help on Instagram for this:


https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/18116186356129610/

[goodatmeth]

Expand Quote

In which shape can I cut a bushing in order to make it feel as soft as possible for a very lightweight child?
I did this to standard thunders and it made it significantly better, but I guess there has to be some kind of sweet spot shape and someone might have done the experiments already.

[close]

Expand Quote

Most of the compression happens vertically so I’d just cut 2mm off the top bushing first then maybe sand the bottom or do what Ishod does and run 2 tops

[close]

Yes, just take a mm or two off the bottom of the top bushings and everything will still work exactly as it should while loosening up the trucks significantly.

I have used this method for lots of boards for kids and others who needed looser trucks without them having to buy new bushings.

Given you have shaved those bushings down so much, you could cut the top off in that case.

Not sure if you can use the link but I had put up a bushing help on Instagram for this:


https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/18116186356129610/

The first thing I tried was also just using a very thin top bushing but that didn't really make a difference because the kids weight is too low for any compression to happen in the bottom bushing, which is what turns the trucks as far as I understand. (Bottom: turning, Top: return to center, right?)

The way I cut the bottom bushing made it possible to compress with way less force without changing the geometry. Maybe cutting the top down and also changing it to a similar shape as the bottom can lead to the easiest turn possible?

If I stand on the board it already feels like there are no bushings at all, but kids are stupid light.

[Easy Slider]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

In which shape can I cut a bushing in order to make it feel as soft as possible for a very lightweight child?
I did this to standard thunders and it made it significantly better, but I guess there has to be some kind of sweet spot shape and someone might have done the experiments already.

[close]

Expand Quote

Most of the compression happens vertically so I’d just cut 2mm off the top bushing first then maybe sand the bottom or do what Ishod does and run 2 tops

[close]

Yes, just take a mm or two off the bottom of the top bushings and everything will still work exactly as it should while loosening up the trucks significantly.

I have used this method for lots of boards for kids and others who needed looser trucks without them having to buy new bushings.

Given you have shaved those bushings down so much, you could cut the top off in that case.

Not sure if you can use the link but I had put up a bushing help on Instagram for this:


https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/18116186356129610/

[close]

The first thing I tried was also just using a very thin top bushing but that didn't really make a difference because the kids weight is too low for any compression to happen in the bottom bushing, which is what turns the trucks as far as I understand. (Bottom: turning, Top: return to center, right?)

The way I cut the bottom bushing made it possible to compress with way less force without changing the geometry. Maybe cutting the top down and also changing it to a similar shape as the bottom can lead to the easiest turn possible?

If I stand on the board it already feels like there are no bushings at all, but kids are stupid light.

I assume you do not use any washers. If you do, get rid of them and the turn will increase massively.

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

In which shape can I cut a bushing in order to make it feel as soft as possible for a very lightweight child?
I did this to standard thunders and it made it significantly better, but I guess there has to be some kind of sweet spot shape and someone might have done the experiments already.

[close]

Expand Quote

Most of the compression happens vertically so I’d just cut 2mm off the top bushing first then maybe sand the bottom or do what Ishod does and run 2 tops

[close]

Yes, just take a mm or two off the bottom of the top bushings and everything will still work exactly as it should while loosening up the trucks significantly.

I have used this method for lots of boards for kids and others who needed looser trucks without them having to buy new bushings.

Given you have shaved those bushings down so much, you could cut the top off in that case.

Not sure if you can use the link but I had put up a bushing help on Instagram for this:


https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/18116186356129610/

[close]

The first thing I tried was also just using a very thin top bushing but that didn't really make a difference because the kids weight is too low for any compression to happen in the bottom bushing, which is what turns the trucks as far as I understand. (Bottom: turning, Top: return to center, right?)

The way I cut the bottom bushing made it possible to compress with way less force without changing the geometry. Maybe cutting the top down and also changing it to a similar shape as the bottom can lead to the easiest turn possible?

If I stand on the board it already feels like there are no bushings at all, but kids are stupid light.

Yeah I understand what you are saying, so at least if that works, then that is a good outcome.

Removing washers (as said) can work too, even just to feel out the bushings for the light weight body in question, but then can change geometry too or cause them to blow out more easily.


By cutting a mm or two off the top bushing on the stock 90 duro, then putting the nut back on to just flush, or where it was before, the trucks are usually almost wobbly loose which usually does the trick for tiny bodies, as well as having the cut off part which can easily be put back in if needed later too.

In experimenting when I first tried this, sometimes I cut too much off, which definitely makes things work way more for very light bodies, then as they grow or get more used to the board, putting the other part back in can be good for them too.

Just a few options.

[Solex]

Expand Quote

@Woodshop yeah, memories can be a strange thing sometimes.

Anyway. Thanks to the pals who helped me with these old stuffs.

Just curious...2 days ago I assembled a set-up and it was the first time I used a blade to cut the griptaoe around the board. Back in the days my homies and I just scratched the outline with an hard tool (or against something made of concrete) until the grip's outline naturaly break, and we just had to pull on and that was finished. I guess we went that way because the owner of our favorite skateshop did it like that, don't remember exactly.

Anyone else use/used this method?

[close]

We used to use a big raw file to do the edges in one place, but compared to just running the side of a screwdriver round and then a razor blade, everything else just seems time consuming and redundant nowdays.

Out at skateparks when people had to set up boards, I recall one guy just using the edge of his baseplate to hack at his grip, which worked for all the older stuff like Jessup but would give him the biggest problems when grip got a lot thicker and needed a blade to actually cut it.

Like a lot of others, I still ride only the normal Jessup and that still works with any method or doing the edge with almost anything, but most other brands nowdays are thicker and need something sharp to cut through it.

Also gripping twenty or more boards in a day at peak skate shop hours (2005 or so) had to be quick and precise, so I know we got really good at just getting the grip on and not even doing the screwdriver line round it, just blade it off and grip scrap to clean up the edge.

We often would have friendly arguments about where the grip should come to, some saying it should go right over the edge and others saying you should always see the top layer of wood on the board, so it was interesting to see the different jobs by different people from the same place.  Regular customers would come back in and you knew who gripped the board by how much top ply or completely covering the edge it was.

I liked to always see top ply stains on my boards.

As far as I know we always used Jessup grip, that's true,  and a couple of days ago it was also a Jessup sheet (seems just perfect to me), but I wanted to try the "legit" method. I'll don't lie, that was kind of laborious and it tooks me a while, but it ended up pretty fine...phew!

[Woodshop]

As far as I know we always used Jessup grip, that's true,  and a couple of days ago it was also a Jessup sheet (seems just perfect to me), but I wanted to try the "legit" method. I'll don't lie, that was kind of laborious and it tooks me a while, but it ended up pretty fine...phew!

Jessup is funny in that it is so thin and often doesn't cut quite the same way (as easily that is) when compared to a lot of the thicker sheets on the market.

It is all about the angle of the blade too, but having a more blunt or chipped blade can make it a real struggle that would still easily get through Grizzly or Mob, just to name a couple of the bigger ones I have constantly set up boards with over the years.

There is a generic plain black one that is most common for me now that is super thick, almost like a big thick layer of contact, but it works and is easy to apply, can pull up easily enough and cuts without worries, but I still prefer Jessup over everything else for my own boards.

[Solex]

Expand Quote

As far as I know we always used Jessup grip, that's true,  and a couple of days ago it was also a Jessup sheet (seems just perfect to me), but I wanted to try the "legit" method. I'll don't lie, that was kind of laborious and it tooks me a while, but it ended up pretty fine...phew!

[close]

Jessup is funny in that it is so thin and often doesn't cut quite the same way (as easily that is) when compared to a lot of the thicker sheets on the market.

It is all about the angle of the blade too, but having a more blunt or chipped blade can make it a real struggle that would still easily get through Grizzly or Mob, just to name a couple of the bigger ones I have constantly set up boards with over the years.

There is a generic plain black one that is most common for me now that is super thick, almost like a big thick layer of contact, but it works and is easy to apply, can pull up easily enough and cuts without worries, but I still prefer Jessup over everything else for my own boards.

It was exactly the problem. I used a pretty new kind of razor blade, but I struggled to keep it in the good line. Always had to go back to rectify. After a while I starter to figure out the angle and strenght needed, but the blade started to get dirty and sticky...such an interesting time.

Anyway. At the end of the day the result was totally legit, so everythings's cool, and it should be better next time.

[tom]

Answer to my own last question: the Real TG shape isn’t the same as his Krooked jump ramp shape for anyone(probably no one) wondering



Insole question time. I know certain insoles will help with feet aches and pain, but will that translate into my legs being less sore after skating? I also had a back injury over a year ago that results on my back getting sore too. Will the insoles actually help absorb the impact energy and work with the midsole of a shoe? I feel like the answer should be yes to both, but skateboard companies and pseudoscience have a long standing partnership. Specifically looking to avoid FP

[Murge]

In which shape can I cut a bushing in order to make it feel as soft as possible for a very lightweight child?
I did this to standard thunders and it made it significantly better, but I guess there has to be some kind of sweet spot shape and someone might have done the experiments already.

Someone else can probably or has probably gave you a better but I think boiling them will soften them up some too. I’ve never done it so I can’t confirm

[Ok]

Answer to my own last question: the Real TG shape isn’t the same as his Krooked jump ramp shape for anyone(probably no one) wondering



Insole question time. I know certain insoles will help with feet aches and pain, but will that translate into my legs being less sore after skating? I also had a back injury over a year ago that results on my back getting sore too. Will the insoles actually help absorb the impact energy and work with the midsole of a shoe? I feel like the answer should be yes to both, but skateboard companies and pseudoscience have a long standing partnership. Specifically looking to avoid FP

Waiting for these answers, for a friend.

[pdknox]

Expand Quote

In which shape can I cut a bushing in order to make it feel as soft as possible for a very lightweight child?
I did this to standard thunders and it made it significantly better, but I guess there has to be some kind of sweet spot shape and someone might have done the experiments already.

[close]

Someone else can probably or has probably gave you a better but I think boiling them will soften them up some too. I’ve never done it so I can’t confirm

@goodatmeth

In case you haven’t seen it https://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2017/01/18/the-pro-skaters-guide-to-loose-trucks/

[Mean salto]

Expand Quote

Answer to my own last question: the Real TG shape isn’t the same as his Krooked jump ramp shape for anyone(probably no one) wondering



Insole question time. I know certain insoles will help with feet aches and pain, but will that translate into my legs being less sore after skating? I also had a back injury over a year ago that results on my back getting sore too. Will the insoles actually help absorb the impact energy and work with the midsole of a shoe? I feel like the answer should be yes to both, but skateboard companies and pseudoscience have a long standing partnership. Specifically looking to avoid FP

[close]

Waiting for these answers, for a friend.

I think unfortunately the answer is different for everyone. My spines been fucked since 2011 and on and off I've tried whatever better cupsole shoe options with whatever insoles and nothing ever felt better than just plain classic vans. Your actual feet and legs will do more for your back than some foam inside your shoes will.(or at least that's how it is for me)

[LebowskisRug]

what is that japanese site that measures all the decks?

[Gray Imp Sausage Metal]

what is that japanese site that measures all the decks?

https://r-fskate.com/smartphone/

[SaySo]

Expand Quote

what is that japanese site that measures all the decks?

[close]

https://r-fskate.com/smartphone/

^THIS

...Although a few other sites now are also starting to list more dimensions.

EDIT: prior post had the main page which is useless for people who don't read Japanese.

https://www.californiastreet.net/c/skateboard/deck?sort=latest#brandlist

[Woodshop]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

what is that japanese site that measures all the decks?

[close]

https://r-fskate.com/smartphone/

[close]

^THIS

...Although a few other sites now are also starting to list more dimensions.

EDIT: prior post had the main page which is useless for people who don't read Japanese.

https://www.californiastreet.net/c/skateboard/deck?sort=latest#brandlist

I am curious how many people use this on a phone. 

Everything I do is always on a normal computer (laptop or desktop) and it auto translates everything anyway, but I can definitely see issues with something like either of those sites if you didn't have those options.

Thanks for that second link too, which is good and also has all relevant info.

It is still the weirdest mix of imperial and metric with measuring skateboard products, but I also have the conversion window open to be able to check anything with all the deck measurements in cm and mm, when I am so much more used to them in inches.

[Woodshop]

Now this is more detail than I have ever seen from any other shop, even saying which way the BAKER name runs on the board (and don't mind the browser translation, just appreciate the info):


https://www.californiastreet.net/c/brand/brand-b/baker/de-ba-bl-bkwt84-o


ANDREW REYNOLDS's skateboard deck brand BAKER.

The product of this place becomes graphic "B" nose, "R" tail, it becomes.

Length 80.9cm Width 21.4cm Nose 18.4cm Tail 17.0cm
Wheel base 35.7cm Concave Medium / Kick Medium

[Mean salto]

If measuring decks in metric became the standard would it make peoples madness less or worse?
For me I think often I'd be like oh it's only 3mm who cares but I can imagine (maybe more so with imperial users) some others being like wtf 3mm that's huge

[SaySo]

Now this is more detail than I have ever seen from any other shop, even saying which way the BAKER name runs on the board (and don't mind the browser translation, just appreciate the info):


https://www.californiastreet.net/c/brand/brand-b/baker/de-ba-bl-bkwt84-o


ANDREW REYNOLDS's skateboard deck brand BAKER.

The product of this place becomes graphic "B" nose, "R" tail, it becomes.

Length 80.9cm Width 21.4cm Nose 18.4cm Tail 17.0cm
Wheel base 35.7cm Concave Medium / Kick Medium

The shop is also very honest about where they source blanks for their shop decks from (the unstained wood decks are from DSM, the black painted decks are from BBS.) Not sure where the Todd Francis and other collabo decks are sourced from though.

https://www.californiastreet.net/c/skateboard/deck/deck-c/deck-californiastreet

[Woodshop]

If measuring decks in metric became the standard would it make peoples madness less or worse?
For me I think often I'd be like oh it's only 3mm who cares but I can imagine (maybe more so with imperial users) some others being like wtf 3mm that's huge

Ha yeah totally!

Already I am sure there have been some semi heated conversations about how close boards are to certain quarter inch sizes, eg the DLX 8.25 boards have always been a bit over 8.25 so take that down to mm and it is either a whole lot of "smile and nod" or someone is going to get really upset over the fact that it is not actually 20.955 cm and more like 21 cm, which is what it measures with this tape here...


* Which I forgot to add is 8.26

[Woodshop]

Expand Quote

Now this is more detail than I have ever seen from any other shop, even saying which way the BAKER name runs on the board (and don't mind the browser translation, just appreciate the info):


https://www.californiastreet.net/c/brand/brand-b/baker/de-ba-bl-bkwt84-o


ANDREW REYNOLDS's skateboard deck brand BAKER.

The product of this place becomes graphic "B" nose, "R" tail, it becomes.

Length 80.9cm Width 21.4cm Nose 18.4cm Tail 17.0cm
Wheel base 35.7cm Concave Medium / Kick Medium

[close]

The shop is also very honest about where they source blanks for their shop decks from (the unstained wood decks are from DSM, the black painted decks are from BBS.) Not sure where the Todd Francis and other collabo decks are sourced from though.

https://www.californiastreet.net/c/skateboard/deck/deck-c/deck-californiastreet

I can definitely appreciate that (and can add it to the Woodshop thread for shop boards list as well.

Thanks!!!

[SaySo]

If measuring decks in metric became the standard would it make peoples madness less or worse?
For me I think often I'd be like oh it's only 3mm who cares but I can imagine (maybe more so with imperial users) some others being like wtf 3mm that's huge

Hahaha, that's a tough one.

I mean if one has already delved into the fiery madness of wheelbase length, using metric might cause a flare-up of hemorrhoidal proportions after eating ghost peppers.

Ultimately 3mm = a hair over 1/16th of an inch.

But the numerical value of "3" without conceptual grasp of units may prove to be the proverbial plastic straw that broke the camel's back or got stuck in the leatherback turtle's nostril.

YMMV; Princess and the pea.

[Reed Richards]

What are the pros and cons of Venture highs vs lows?

[Ok]

Being tru 2 da game

[SlapMcKracken]

Low trucks + steep kicks opinions?

Ace low + fa/hockey for example.

[munchbox]

ran low 5.2s w/ hockey 8.5 and the pop was legendary

i dont think any pal has the ace lows
nor do i think they will perform like venture lows
ace turn on a low+wide truck sounds like a disaster bar slappies