questions that don't deserve their own thread

[mattchew]

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Going to be flying with my board next week: you’re supposed to loosen your hardware to prevent warping etc. during pressure change, yeah?

If so, follow up question is if you can bring a skate tool as a carry on so I can tighten up when I land? Not sure if they think you can shank someone with the screwdriver attachment or whatever.

[close]

flown with skate tools and had no issue. most trouble i've run into was having to have my board go through the xray machine twice

[close]

Same, always kept it in my backpack.

Also try to carry your board on if you can. I've always gotten away with strapping it to my backpack or carry on duffel bag and having them count it as one item with the bag. The real warping comes from it being in the luggage hold since it not pressurized or temp controlled.

Thanks homies, appreciate it, def gonna be a carry on.

[Richard Skidder]

what are some old truck companies that no longer exist?

I remember these vividly:

Orion
Kreper
Phantom
Fury
Tracker
Destructo
Grind King

I seem to remember Titan and Standard? or am I making thoes up? i cant seem to find anything about them online

Destructo's were really popular in my area. I remember everyone hyping up the insane grind clearance on them, but no one was axeling trucks back then in my area lol. so not sure why this was such a selling point for us. I remember I broke the kingpin on them.

Grind Kings were seen as wack as fuck. I had a pair given to me for free and I bent the axle.

Tracker-Hawk were my first trucks and they werent bad I guess but i broke the kingpin on them.

Orion seemed like good trucks to me, I remember them often set up with SEEK boards at the time... there was a squad of older guys who were super hyped on that combination for some reason at my local hockey arena skatepark. NEver tried them. for all i know they are shit. would love to hear about osmeone who rode them.

Fury were my favorite trucks back then. I did have a pair of Indy's and I did like them, I do recall specifically them being increidbly heavy and the axle slipped really badly, but the kingpin lasted on those, and on Fury's (this was between 98-2005 all these trucks I am talking about). They fury's were also dumb heavy but they lasted really long, never managed to break the kingpin on them, I liked the turning on them too. I want to say they were slightly lighter than the indy's still.

Kreper / Phantom were just what emo / goth edgester kids would rock, no one serious would skate those from what i saw. they were super kooky. phantom werent AS BAD as the Kreper's, those were extra gimmicky with the bat shaped baseplate shit. 


Would like to hear other ppl thoughts about trucks from that era or before!

Phantom became Silver

[Lou Strux]

Were not Orions just Trackers w/ a redesign, or have I got that wrong?

[manysnakes]

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Going to be flying with my board next week: you’re supposed to loosen your hardware to prevent warping etc. during pressure change, yeah?

If so, follow up question is if you can bring a skate tool as a carry on so I can tighten up when I land? Not sure if they think you can shank someone with the screwdriver attachment or whatever.

[close]

flown with skate tools and had no issue. most trouble i've run into was having to have my board go through the xray machine twice

[close]

Same, always kept it in my backpack.

Also try to carry your board on if you can. I've always gotten away with strapping it to my backpack or carry on duffel bag and having them count it as one item with the bag. The real warping comes from it being in the luggage hold since it not pressurized or temp controlled.

I bought one of those nylon skateboard bags they sell on eBay and I use it whenever I travel with my board. No one cares or says anything if it's in a bag.

[jakeumms]

Were not Orions just Trackers w/ a redesign, or have I got that wrong?

I thought the same. Pairing them with Seek boards make sense because I think they were a Tracker rebrand backed by that one baby faced millionaire

[Easy Slider]

what are some old truck companies that no longer exist?

I remember these vividly:

Orion
Kreper
Phantom
Fury
Tracker
Destructo
Grind King

I seem to remember Titan and Standard? or am I making thoes up? i cant seem to find anything about them online

Destructo's were really popular in my area. I remember everyone hyping up the insane grind clearance on them, but no one was axeling trucks back then in my area lol. so not sure why this was such a selling point for us. I remember I broke the kingpin on them.

Grind Kings were seen as wack as fuck. I had a pair given to me for free and I bent the axle.

Tracker-Hawk were my first trucks and they werent bad I guess but i broke the kingpin on them.

Orion seemed like good trucks to me, I remember them often set up with SEEK boards at the time... there was a squad of older guys who were super hyped on that combination for some reason at my local hockey arena skatepark. NEver tried them. for all i know they are shit. would love to hear about osmeone who rode them.

Fury were my favorite trucks back then. I did have a pair of Indy's and I did like them, I do recall specifically them being increidbly heavy and the axle slipped really badly, but the kingpin lasted on those, and on Fury's (this was between 98-2005 all these trucks I am talking about). They fury's were also dumb heavy but they lasted really long, never managed to break the kingpin on them, I liked the turning on them too. I want to say they were slightly lighter than the indy's still.

Kreper / Phantom were just what emo / goth edgester kids would rock, no one serious would skate those from what i saw. they were super kooky. phantom werent AS BAD as the Kreper's, those were extra gimmicky with the bat shaped baseplate shit. 


Would like to hear other ppl thoughts about trucks from that era or before!

Standards did exist, I had a Standard Trucks t shirt.

[jimgrude]

what are some old truck companies that no longer exist?

I remember these vividly:

Orion
Kreper
Phantom
Fury
Tracker
Destructo
Grind King

If you count Kreper as being part of Grind King, then all of these brands are still in business as far as I know.

[Mbrimson88]

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.

Most of the team riders just ride whatever is in the box, which is mostly just the standard / team / basic versions of the trucks more than anything else.  I know some request specific things, the more hollow / light / forged versions being for those guys, but I think it could be a fairly even mix all up.

Seems it is about the same for most team riders for Thunder, Indy, Venture, etc.

[close]

All of the people I know that ride for Indy and Thunder can get whichever version of the trucks they like, unless they are out of stock at the time.

That's interesting to hear.

Is that USA or elsewhere?

Also are they pro, am, just spono?


Just curious, but some of the people (not pro) that I have seen come through the shop were a bit more on the clueless side in that regard, but I know others (including some pro dudes) are very much in tune with their setups and must have very specific things, including wanting to swap some things at the shop that they got that they didn't like, for other stuff that was in stock in the shop.

I always find it funny in dealing with people, some are so lacking in any knowledge while others are so very specific with everything, but I have learned not to talk tech with people unless they start first, no matter who they are.

[Lepanto]

meny pure street pro skaters like jeff carlyle… nick matthews… Athans.. and a very long list… almost nobody use hollow or light kingpin… Guess work better for crusty and grind on crap edges or brings more stability?

Soo team editions and vcast and such non hollow stuff goes better for street?

[schralp pal]

Wanted to confirm that I just got a Frog Nick Michel 8.38 and they heat transferred over an old graphic. The heat transfer quality is abysmal and it is flaking off.

Yeah, mine is skating fine but lots of flaking going on.

[CrumblingInfrastructure]

Anyone got any recommendations on where I can find some brown cords? I cant find any Kirkland brand ones lately so im looking for something with that similar fit/price range.

[manysnakes]

Anyone got any recommendations on where I can find some brown cords? I cant find any Kirkland brand ones lately so im looking for something with that similar fit/price range.

I've got these in black and they're probably my favorite pants.

https://shop.ccs.com/products/ccs-original-relaxed-corduroy-pants-brown

[yourbreakfsat]

meny pure street pro skaters like jeff carlyle… nick matthews… Athans.. and a very long list… almost nobody use hollow or light kingpin… Guess work better for crusty and grind on crap edges or brings more stability?

Soo team editions and vcast and such non hollow stuff goes better for street?

Complete personal preference.

Most sponsored skaters skate whatever trucks they get in their box and usually don't request a specific type.

[manysnakes]

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meny pure street pro skaters like jeff carlyle… nick matthews… Athans.. and a very long list… almost nobody use hollow or light kingpin… Guess work better for crusty and grind on crap edges or brings more stability?

Soo team editions and vcast and such non hollow stuff goes better for street?

[close]

Complete personal preference.

Most sponsored skaters skate whatever trucks they get in their box and usually don't request a specific type.

I'm sure there are exceptions, but someone here said that most pros can't get more than a pair of titanium trucks every year. There's even a video somewhere on YouTube where Tony is talking about his setup and he's like "I'm skating Standards because this is what Rhino sent me," implying that even Hawk just gets whatever's in the box.

[goodatmeth]

meny pure street pro skaters like jeff carlyle… nick matthews… Athans.. and a very long list… almost nobody use hollow or light kingpin… Guess work better for crusty and grind on crap edges or brings more stability?

Soo team editions and vcast and such non hollow stuff goes better for street?

They're the most basic, cheapest and easiest to get (for free) trucks. Nothing worth worrying about.

[CrumblingInfrastructure]

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Anyone got any recommendations on where I can find some brown cords? I cant find any Kirkland brand ones lately so im looking for something with that similar fit/price range.

[close]

I've got these in black and they're probably my favorite pants.

https://shop.ccs.com/products/ccs-original-relaxed-corduroy-pants-brown

If I could off the baggy fit I would probably go for those but I look hella goofy in most relaxed fits haha. Thank you though!

[IpathCats]

Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

[manysnakes]

Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

I believe you are overthinking it. If this were some structural, load-bearing part of a frame job, I'd agree that we should follow strict guidelines, but it's a 7-ply sheet of plywood you're going to razor tail or snap in a month or two and replace. So long as there's a decent bit of material between the two holes, I doubt you're going to see failure in that spot before you replace the entire deck. Plenty of decks have come with multiple holes in them, and I'm sure you can see stress fractures between the holes, but I doubt you'll find one example of a deck which actually failed in this spot before the deck was otherwise worn out.

Personally, I would just pencil it out with a speed square and an old truck baseplate. Score the points with an awl and drill.

[IpathCats]

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Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

[close]

I believe you are overthinking it. If this were some structural, load-bearing part of a frame job, I'd agree that we should follow strict guidelines, but it's a 7-ply sheet of plywood you're going to razor tail or snap in a month or two and replace. So long as there's a decent bit of material between the two holes, I doubt you're going to see failure in that spot before you replace the entire deck. Plenty of decks have come with multiple holes in them, and I'm sure you can see stress fractures between the holes, but I doubt you'll find one example of a deck which actually failed in this spot before the deck was otherwise worn out.

Personally, I would just pencil it out with a speed square and an old truck baseplate. Score the points with an awl and drill.

probably to some degree. I just didnt want to ruin a deck if i could help it. Any idea what the increments on those oldschool boards with multiple holes were? 1/4 or 1/2 inch?

[manysnakes]

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Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

[close]

I believe you are overthinking it. If this were some structural, load-bearing part of a frame job, I'd agree that we should follow strict guidelines, but it's a 7-ply sheet of plywood you're going to razor tail or snap in a month or two and replace. So long as there's a decent bit of material between the two holes, I doubt you're going to see failure in that spot before you replace the entire deck. Plenty of decks have come with multiple holes in them, and I'm sure you can see stress fractures between the holes, but I doubt you'll find one example of a deck which actually failed in this spot before the deck was otherwise worn out.

Personally, I would just pencil it out with a speed square and an old truck baseplate. Score the points with an awl and drill.

[close]

probably to some degree. I just didnt want to ruin a deck if i could help it. Any idea what the increments on those oldschool boards with multiple holes were? 1/4 or 1/2 inch?

I think 1/2", so maybe just go on that.

[Roisto]

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Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

[close]

I believe you are overthinking it. If this were some structural, load-bearing part of a frame job, I'd agree that we should follow strict guidelines, but it's a 7-ply sheet of plywood you're going to razor tail or snap in a month or two and replace. So long as there's a decent bit of material between the two holes, I doubt you're going to see failure in that spot before you replace the entire deck. Plenty of decks have come with multiple holes in them, and I'm sure you can see stress fractures between the holes, but I doubt you'll find one example of a deck which actually failed in this spot before the deck was otherwise worn out.

Personally, I would just pencil it out with a speed square and an old truck baseplate. Score the points with an awl and drill.

[close]

probably to some degree. I just didnt want to ruin a deck if i could help it. Any idea what the increments on those oldschool boards with multiple holes were? 1/4 or 1/2 inch?

[close]

I think 1/2", so maybe just go on that.

I think it’s recommended to go at least 3/8” but 1/4” should be possible also. Going 1/2” sounds a bit much. I don’t recall the DLX 8.38” having a big nose but I could have short term memory loss. 

[IpathCats]

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Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

[close]

I believe you are overthinking it. If this were some structural, load-bearing part of a frame job, I'd agree that we should follow strict guidelines, but it's a 7-ply sheet of plywood you're going to razor tail or snap in a month or two and replace. So long as there's a decent bit of material between the two holes, I doubt you're going to see failure in that spot before you replace the entire deck. Plenty of decks have come with multiple holes in them, and I'm sure you can see stress fractures between the holes, but I doubt you'll find one example of a deck which actually failed in this spot before the deck was otherwise worn out.

Personally, I would just pencil it out with a speed square and an old truck baseplate. Score the points with an awl and drill.

[close]

probably to some degree. I just didnt want to ruin a deck if i could help it. Any idea what the increments on those oldschool boards with multiple holes were? 1/4 or 1/2 inch?

[close]

I think 1/2", so maybe just go on that.

[close]

I think it’s recommended to go at least 3/8” but 1/4” should be possible also. Going 1/2” sounds a bit much. I don’t recall the DLX 8.38” having a big nose but I could have short term memory loss. 

It's not HUGE by any means but i skate twin tails too, so i think ill be ok as long as long as its not shorter than my tail when im done.

[Mbrimson88]

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Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

[close]

I believe you are overthinking it. If this were some structural, load-bearing part of a frame job, I'd agree that we should follow strict guidelines, but it's a 7-ply sheet of plywood you're going to razor tail or snap in a month or two and replace. So long as there's a decent bit of material between the two holes, I doubt you're going to see failure in that spot before you replace the entire deck. Plenty of decks have come with multiple holes in them, and I'm sure you can see stress fractures between the holes, but I doubt you'll find one example of a deck which actually failed in this spot before the deck was otherwise worn out.

Personally, I would just pencil it out with a speed square and an old truck baseplate. Score the points with an awl and drill.

[close]

probably to some degree. I just didnt want to ruin a deck if i could help it. Any idea what the increments on those oldschool boards with multiple holes were? 1/4 or 1/2 inch?

[close]

I think 1/2", so maybe just go on that.

[close]

I think it’s recommended to go at least 3/8” but 1/4” should be possible also. Going 1/2” sounds a bit much. I don’t recall the DLX 8.38” having a big nose but I could have short term memory loss. 

[close]

It's not HUGE by any means but i skate twin tails too, so i think ill be ok as long as long as its not shorter than my tail when im done.

In looking at one of my 8.38 boards, you could get away with it, but the pushed out holes would make the nose feel very heavy on the manual point as it would just be into the spoon concave area, but it could be done.


The six hole baseplates make it 3/8" difference, if you use any six hole baseplate as a template to redrill it out, or the Chems kits which have 3/8" difference on one and 1/4" on another, so yes the .25 difference is ok and the guy drilled his whole deck out just to prove that the .25 hole difference does nothing to weaken his board, although I doubt he was smashing his board in to slappy madness like some people on here.


The Chems kit is the one I was referring to, as per this post:

[IpathCats]

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Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

[close]

I believe you are overthinking it. If this were some structural, load-bearing part of a frame job, I'd agree that we should follow strict guidelines, but it's a 7-ply sheet of plywood you're going to razor tail or snap in a month or two and replace. So long as there's a decent bit of material between the two holes, I doubt you're going to see failure in that spot before you replace the entire deck. Plenty of decks have come with multiple holes in them, and I'm sure you can see stress fractures between the holes, but I doubt you'll find one example of a deck which actually failed in this spot before the deck was otherwise worn out.

Personally, I would just pencil it out with a speed square and an old truck baseplate. Score the points with an awl and drill.

[close]

probably to some degree. I just didnt want to ruin a deck if i could help it. Any idea what the increments on those oldschool boards with multiple holes were? 1/4 or 1/2 inch?

[close]

I think 1/2", so maybe just go on that.

[close]

I think it’s recommended to go at least 3/8” but 1/4” should be possible also. Going 1/2” sounds a bit much. I don’t recall the DLX 8.38” having a big nose but I could have short term memory loss. 

[close]

It's not HUGE by any means but i skate twin tails too, so i think ill be ok as long as long as its not shorter than my tail when im done.

[close]

In looking at one of my 8.38 boards, you could get away with it, but the pushed out holes would make the nose feel very heavy on the manual point as it would just be into the spoon concave area, but it could be done.


The six hole baseplates make it 3/8" difference, if you use any six hole baseplate as a template to redrill it out, or the Chems kits which have 3/8" difference on one and 1/4" on another, so yes the .25 difference is ok and the guy drilled his whole deck out just to prove that the .25 hole difference does nothing to weaken his board, although I doubt he was smashing his board in to slappy madness like some people on here.


The Chems kit is the one I was referring to, as per this post:

yea might have to snag one of these. will probably go 3/8 for added durability and to split the wb difference between +1/4 and +1/2.

The idea of a heavier nose pop/manny feel sounds awesome to me tbh. That's one thing i miss about ventures, the manny point/feel

[Mbrimson88]

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Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

[close]

I believe you are overthinking it. If this were some structural, load-bearing part of a frame job, I'd agree that we should follow strict guidelines, but it's a 7-ply sheet of plywood you're going to razor tail or snap in a month or two and replace. So long as there's a decent bit of material between the two holes, I doubt you're going to see failure in that spot before you replace the entire deck. Plenty of decks have come with multiple holes in them, and I'm sure you can see stress fractures between the holes, but I doubt you'll find one example of a deck which actually failed in this spot before the deck was otherwise worn out.

Personally, I would just pencil it out with a speed square and an old truck baseplate. Score the points with an awl and drill.

[close]

probably to some degree. I just didnt want to ruin a deck if i could help it. Any idea what the increments on those oldschool boards with multiple holes were? 1/4 or 1/2 inch?

[close]

I think 1/2", so maybe just go on that.

[close]

I think it’s recommended to go at least 3/8” but 1/4” should be possible also. Going 1/2” sounds a bit much. I don’t recall the DLX 8.38” having a big nose but I could have short term memory loss. 

[close]

It's not HUGE by any means but i skate twin tails too, so i think ill be ok as long as long as its not shorter than my tail when im done.

[close]

In looking at one of my 8.38 boards, you could get away with it, but the pushed out holes would make the nose feel very heavy on the manual point as it would just be into the spoon concave area, but it could be done.


The six hole baseplates make it 3/8" difference, if you use any six hole baseplate as a template to redrill it out, or the Chems kits which have 3/8" difference on one and 1/4" on another, so yes the .25 difference is ok and the guy drilled his whole deck out just to prove that the .25 hole difference does nothing to weaken his board, although I doubt he was smashing his board in to slappy madness like some people on here.


The Chems kit is the one I was referring to, as per this post:

[close]

yea might have to snag one of these. will probably go 3/8 for added durability and to split the wb difference between +1/4 and +1/2.

The idea of a heavier nose pop/manny feel sounds awesome to me tbh. That's one thing i miss about ventures, the manny point/feel

At least using one of those six hole baseplates from an old truck (you said you got in another thread) is a good template, if you wanted to get it done before getting the Chems tool.

Bolt the baseplate on as per usual, making sure it is straight and lined up wtih the other baseplate, then drill through the two extra front holes (or even just have a look at it first to make sure it is not too far into the nose concave) and then turn it around and bolt it down the opposite way in the old holes / new holes as the longer truck bolt pattern and drill out the other two to give you the new 3/8" increase.

I have done this for a lot of boards and it works great to get the even 3/8" without messing it up.  Of course things can still go wrong, or if the bolt holes in the baseplate are ovalled or whatever, but it is a whole lot easier just marking it out and drilling from scratch.

[Hastings]

Does anybody know about the Plan B Starwars reissues in Colin Mckay's story? ....sorry I didn't DM him like a man.

[IpathCats]

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Any tips for re drilling decks for larger/shorter wb?

I've seen this done on older decks, but my biggest question is how much space do i need to put between the new/old holes to prevent sacrificing as much of the structural integrity of the deck as possible.

I'm thinking about doing this on the 8.38 dlx shape with the 14.5 wb. Ideally i'd like to re drill the nose holes to make it 14.75, but idk if that is too close to the old holes.

Would i need to go all the way to 15in? or do you think i could get away with 14.75 without compromising the deck too much?

[close]

I believe you are overthinking it. If this were some structural, load-bearing part of a frame job, I'd agree that we should follow strict guidelines, but it's a 7-ply sheet of plywood you're going to razor tail or snap in a month or two and replace. So long as there's a decent bit of material between the two holes, I doubt you're going to see failure in that spot before you replace the entire deck. Plenty of decks have come with multiple holes in them, and I'm sure you can see stress fractures between the holes, but I doubt you'll find one example of a deck which actually failed in this spot before the deck was otherwise worn out.

Personally, I would just pencil it out with a speed square and an old truck baseplate. Score the points with an awl and drill.

[close]

probably to some degree. I just didnt want to ruin a deck if i could help it. Any idea what the increments on those oldschool boards with multiple holes were? 1/4 or 1/2 inch?

[close]

I think 1/2", so maybe just go on that.

[close]

I think it’s recommended to go at least 3/8” but 1/4” should be possible also. Going 1/2” sounds a bit much. I don’t recall the DLX 8.38” having a big nose but I could have short term memory loss. 

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It's not HUGE by any means but i skate twin tails too, so i think ill be ok as long as long as its not shorter than my tail when im done.

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In looking at one of my 8.38 boards, you could get away with it, but the pushed out holes would make the nose feel very heavy on the manual point as it would just be into the spoon concave area, but it could be done.


The six hole baseplates make it 3/8" difference, if you use any six hole baseplate as a template to redrill it out, or the Chems kits which have 3/8" difference on one and 1/4" on another, so yes the .25 difference is ok and the guy drilled his whole deck out just to prove that the .25 hole difference does nothing to weaken his board, although I doubt he was smashing his board in to slappy madness like some people on here.


The Chems kit is the one I was referring to, as per this post:

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yea might have to snag one of these. will probably go 3/8 for added durability and to split the wb difference between +1/4 and +1/2.

The idea of a heavier nose pop/manny feel sounds awesome to me tbh. That's one thing i miss about ventures, the manny point/feel

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At least using one of those six hole baseplates from an old truck (you said you got in another thread) is a good template, if you wanted to get it done before getting the Chems tool.

Bolt the baseplate on as per usual, making sure it is straight and lined up wtih the other baseplate, then drill through the two extra front holes (or even just have a look at it first to make sure it is not too far into the nose concave) and then turn it around and bolt it down the opposite way in the old holes / new holes as the longer truck bolt pattern and drill out the other two to give you the new 3/8" increase.

I have done this for a lot of boards and it works great to get the even 3/8" without messing it up.  Of course things can still go wrong, or if the bolt holes in the baseplate are ovalled or whatever, but it is a whole lot easier just marking it out and drilling from scratch.

Dang! didnt think about that. Already set those up on a deck for a lil homie who was hurting for a better setup.

[Síota]

 

Does anybody know about the Plan B Starwars reissues in Colin Mckay's story? ....sorry I didn't DM him like a man.

I just saw that also..out Xmas day. How they are not gonna get a C&D this time is beyond me....

Edit:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmdGLkqIq84/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

[69woodpusher69]

Expand Quote

Does anybody know about the Plan B Starwars reissues in Colin Mckay's story? ....sorry I didn't DM him like a man.

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I just saw that also..out Xmas day. How they are not gonna get a C&D this time is beyond me....

Edit:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmdGLkqIq84/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

what yall think this will cost, 5 hundo?

[geezer]

Expand Quote

Does anybody know about the Plan B Starwars reissues in Colin Mckay's story? ....sorry I didn't DM him like a man.

[close]

I just saw that also..out Xmas day. How they are not gonna get a C&D this time is beyond me....

Edit:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmdGLkqIq84/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

Looks like only 100 of each. Doesn't a C&D typically mean "stop making them?" They've already stopped