questions that don't deserve their own thread

[Jort250]

Anyone ever try Andale Swiss? My local is clearing them out for hella cheap (30 CAD)

[MOE SYZLAK]

Anyone remember the video with Dustin Henry spinning in and out of tricks with his arms straight out?
I remember the clips vividly, but can’t seem to track them down

[rocklobster]

Expand Quote

I'm surprised I can't find an answer for this easily on google, but what are some more things to "check" or adjust when your board turns on its own, hard? When it shoots out and boomerangs on you. I didn't mind for a while but now I find myself compensating when I push.

- I've checked the bearings / wheels themselves. I've made sure it's not my wheels coning.
- I've rotated my bushings 180 degrees in place, so it's not that one side is more worn in than the other.
- I ride looser trucks, I don't have my trucks comedically tight like you see sometimes when people complain about this.

Sometimes I look closer and see the truck is "shifted" a bit when looking at the kingpin, and I shift it back, but I can't figure out what "causes" the shift in the first place, and why it's always the same side. The trucks are loose-ish too so in theory it should also be shifted to the other side but it never does.


Anyone have go-to things to check or tips or anything. Each case is unique so I don't expect anyone to solve mine but I just want ideas

[close]

Yup I guess the bolt holes on my trucks are elongated, and that's what caused this. I didn't even know that was a thing, I've only been skating these for 1 year.

I guess I'll just tighten the bolts harder? I may risk cracking my board though? I've never heard anyone else talk about this haha

Yeah if the hardware is loose the trucks wiggle and wear out the mounting holes. Tighten up the nuts and you'll be fine, but start looking for spare baseplates in the future.

[Llewellyn Moss]

Anyone remember the video with Dustin Henry spinning in and out of tricks with his arms straight out?
I remember the clips vividly, but can’t seem to track them down

Maybe Lotties On God? Or is it a shared part with Etienne?

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

I'm surprised I can't find an answer for this easily on google, but what are some more things to "check" or adjust when your board turns on its own, hard? When it shoots out and boomerangs on you. I didn't mind for a while but now I find myself compensating when I push.

- I've checked the bearings / wheels themselves. I've made sure it's not my wheels coning.
- I've rotated my bushings 180 degrees in place, so it's not that one side is more worn in than the other.
- I ride looser trucks, I don't have my trucks comedically tight like you see sometimes when people complain about this.

Sometimes I look closer and see the truck is "shifted" a bit when looking at the kingpin, and I shift it back, but I can't figure out what "causes" the shift in the first place, and why it's always the same side. The trucks are loose-ish too so in theory it should also be shifted to the other side but it never does.


Anyone have go-to things to check or tips or anything. Each case is unique so I don't expect anyone to solve mine but I just want ideas

[close]

Yup I guess the bolt holes on my trucks are elongated, and that's what caused this. I didn't even know that was a thing, I've only been skating these for 1 year.

I guess I'll just tighten the bolts harder? I may risk cracking my board though? I've never heard anyone else talk about this haha

As others have said, keeping deck bolts tight.  You don't have to overtighten them, just check with your fingers if they are tight enough, or give them a test check with the skate tool every so often.

If the deck bolt nuts are losing strength in the nyloc, eg you can tighten them right down on the bolt with your fingers, swap them out for new nuts or get a new pack of hardware.


As to the solution with the current issue, people have usually sorted this out with two options, either something grippy or something soft under their baseplates.

Sticking grip tape to the underside of the baseplates and trimming it off works fine (with Jessup) when I tried it.  Some people will also scrape off the paint on the deck under the truck too, just to get a better hold, which I have also done and it is a good fix.  I can barely see the height change and don't really even see the grip tape when cut in a bit.

The other option is something softer, be it a cut up rubber bike tube, double sided tape or similar stuff, mainly to get a good pad there to stop the baseplate moving.  This will usually result in the truck sitting up a little, maybe a single mm, but if you want things as low as you can get, or are swapping boards out every other week this might not be such a good option.


I have used the grip offcuts under my baseplates and it has worked well, as per these posts from a while back:


https://www.instagram.com/mbrimson88/p/CqPSDJJJd_M/

https://www.instagram.com/mbrimson88/p/CrDV1-nJaSw/

[MOE SYZLAK]

Expand Quote

Anyone remember the video with Dustin Henry spinning in and out of tricks with his arms straight out?
I remember the clips vividly, but can’t seem to track them down

[close]

Maybe Lotties On God? Or is it a shared part with Etienne?

It’s way older than that, I thought it was one of the Dime Comps but it’s not those.

[Jim and Dan]

Anyone remember the video with Dustin Henry spinning in and out of tricks with his arms straight out?
I remember the clips vividly, but can’t seem to track them down

Not 1:12, nah?

Or 4:55?

[MOE SYZLAK]

Expand Quote

Anyone remember the video with Dustin Henry spinning in and out of tricks with his arms straight out?
I remember the clips vividly, but can’t seem to track them down

[close]

Not 1:12, nah?

Or 4:55?

Honestly those could be it, I remember the red shorts, but I could have sworn he starts the line I’m thinking of with a kickflip…I might also be insane.

[Llewellyn Moss]

To be fair Dustin Henry's arm steeze is present in basically every clip. Part of the reason he's one of my favorites to watch.

[MOE SYZLAK]

It may be the Courtesy part I'm thinking of i might be misremembering.
https://youtu.be/2QnfteDe3XE?si=ijKbmzGoiHx3Xl55

I have consumed just about every ounce of DH footage out there this morning. It must be some random instagram clip logged in my brain or something.

[Lou Strux]

“…All we are is Dustin the Henry.”
-Kansas (probably)

[mattchew]

Are there any twin/symmetrical boards with a 8.5”+ width and a wheelbase between 13.75”-14.18”?

[Chalupa]

Are there any twin/symmetrical boards with a 8.5”+ width and a wheelbase between 13.75”-14.18”?

Heroin does an 8.5” x 32” with a 14” WB.

https://lbskate.com/products/heroin-chris-pullman-eyes-8-5-skateboard-deck?srsltid=AfmBOorIVfBcS56OaM3Q49m45QgMaPzXAp2oY6eUWLeJHr3LuRQrTj4d

The G096 shape from Crailtap is 8.5” x 31.875” with a 14” WB.

I’m not sure about symmetrical popsicle decks bigger than 8.5” with sub-14.25” WB.

[moonordie]

Dear Pals,
Any Intel on grasshoppers?
TTS?
Much appreciated.

[DarkPools]

Dear Pals,
Any Intel on grasshoppers?
TTS?
Much appreciated.

From what I've seen (& tried), yes! Although they are a roomy fit, so TTS could be a little loose depending on your foot shape.   

[Mbrimson88]

Are there any twin/symmetrical boards with a 8.5”+ width and a wheelbase between 13.75”-14.18”?

Depending on your trucks, the V8 option really opens up the market for most bigger twins.  That is to say any "double drilled" baseplate means you can get a lot more of those twins and use the second set of holes to bring the wheelbase down to pretty much right in the middle of that, eg Ishod 8.5 with 14.5 wb comes nicely down to 14.0 on my DIY V8 Venture or Indy trucks, but that all depends on what trucks you have and if you want to try double drilling them.

I have found it is a lot easier than drilling each and every deck to bring in wheelbases, but it really only works if you have Venture, Indy or something else that is sufficiently offset to drill another set of holes beside the original bolt holes in the baseplate.


To be fair, I used to drill out boards as well, but to have to do that for every board if you are going through them, it is more of a pain than most people can deal with.  If I am using Thunder trucks, I still drill out the board at both ends, but I have a wheelbase mod tool so it makes it way easier.

[Llewellyn Moss]

Expand Quote

Dear Pals,
Any Intel on grasshoppers?
TTS?
Much appreciated.

[close]

From what I've seen (& tried), yes! Although they are a roomy fit, so TTS could be a little loose depending on your foot shape.

Can echo this. I tried on the white gum leather joints and currently skating the waxed canvas and both TTS. Got the black denim hemps arriving tomorrow will update.

[moonordie]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Dear Pals,
Any Intel on grasshoppers?
TTS?
Much appreciated.

[close]

From what I've seen (& tried), yes! Although they are a roomy fit, so TTS could be a little loose depending on your foot shape.

[close]

Can echo this. I tried on the white gum leather joints and currently skating the waxed canvas and both TTS. Got the black denim hemps arriving tomorrow will update.

Thank you guys

[Boog]

Are there any twin/symmetrical boards with a 8.5”+ width and a wheelbase between 13.75”-14.18”?

Roger has one. I'm skating it right now. I like it a lot it's
8.5×14.18×31.9

[jamesmocapaldi]

Inverted KP homies, how do the IKP nuts work on Thunders, Slappys, and Ace?

On thunders and slappys, are the nuts replaceable and removable when not attached to the KP?

Aces have something built into the baseplate like Indy, right?

[Mbrimson88]

Inverted KP homies, how do the IKP nuts work on Thunders, Slappys, and Ace?

On thunders and slappys, are the nuts replaceable and removable when not attached to the KP?

Aces have something built into the baseplate like Indy, right?

Re inverted truck assembly - Everything is fixed in.  It is not a normal nut, but a shaft nut, so it fits into the baseplate from the point the bushing washer touches and sits down into it about twice as tall as a regular nut, with a built in normal nut on the end, if that makes any sense.

When people do their own DIY inverted truck, they usually fit a regular nut to the underside of the baseplate, so this in itself is often an easier option to replace if or when needed, but the kingpin can come loose or make the baseplate hole widen out so the kingpin will move a lot more side to side when compared to how brands have implemented a shaft nut.

When the nyloc wears out on any of them, then the kingpin can come loose more easily, in the same way regular nuts do - axle, kingpin or deck bolts included.  Using Loctite or something similar can help.


As to Ace, theirs is a different thing entirely, but it is still a shaft, no nut option, just a locking system.  They have some good info on the respective brand pages, with pics and videos.


* Inverted kingpin baseplate closeup:

[Llewellyn Moss]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Dear Pals,
Any Intel on grasshoppers?
TTS?
Much appreciated.

[close]

From what I've seen (& tried), yes! Although they are a roomy fit, so TTS could be a little loose depending on your foot shape.

[close]

Can echo this. I tried on the white gum leather joints and currently skating the waxed canvas and both TTS. Got the black denim hemps arriving tomorrow will update.

[close]

Thank you guys

Update: Got black/white denim hemp hopps yesterday and they fit similar to the waxed canvas/hemp in black/green.

As mentioned by @Chalupa, I can also confirm the black/white denim are significantly less padded around the ankle. They feel lighter overall. Feel like they might have more flex. Should be a good summer shoe and possibly more board feel especially on heelflips so I'm stoked.

[jamesmocapaldi]

In anyone's experience with DIY inverted plates, how long did you get before the baseplate hole widened out to the point that you needed new trucks?

I've got some thunders I'm trying to ride despite the middle of the hanger being so worn from trying to get curbs going by rubbricking with the hanger. The basically have negative kingpin clearance. Was considering DIY IKP to recover some clearance.

[logjammin]

I've been hammering out the kingpins of vintage Indy baseplates for a long time and using them for diy inversion since the nut sits up there without the need for jb weld. never had an issue with the hole widening on me and I ride very loose and do tons of slappies. stage 7+8 baseplates work great with ace classic, af1's, and stage 4 indy hangers. just gotta play around with bottom bushing heights and make sure the hanger yoke is centered. you'd probably be fine with the thunders, I don't think the hole would widen on you. the newer ones fit the nut so you don't have to jb weld.

[DNTRODDEN]

What do you think are the bushings with the "snappiest" rebound/ return to center

[Mbrimson88]

In anyone's experience with DIY inverted plates, how long did you get before the baseplate hole widened out to the point that you needed new trucks?

I've got some thunders I'm trying to ride despite the middle of the hanger being so worn from trying to get curbs going by rubbricking with the hanger. The basically have negative kingpin clearance. Was considering DIY IKP to recover some clearance.

I've been hammering out the kingpins of vintage Indy baseplates for a long time and using them for diy inversion since the nut sits up there without the need for jb weld. never had an issue with the hole widening on me and I ride very loose and do tons of slappies. stage 7+8 baseplates work great with ace classic, af1's, and stage 4 indy hangers. just gotta play around with bottom bushing heights and make sure the hanger yoke is centered. you'd probably be fine with the thunders, I don't think the hole would widen on you. the newer ones fit the nut so you don't have to jb weld.

Been knocking out the regular kingpins from Thunders now with the hex baseplate mold, which is great for keeping the kingpin nut steady enough, maybe even easier than having the actual inverted Thunder trucks to a degree, but for the most part, I don't have any issues with them either, although others have had them move or widen out who will skate way harder than me.  That said, you should be good with them working for the remainder of the trucks life.

I think for the clearance alone, knocking out the kingpins and either machine them or add some other inverted kingpins, eg the Krux kit which is fairly cheap and easy to use, things definitely get easier, but to give a lot more clearance, I will often shape down the top bushing, or slightly cut it to get the inverted kingpin even lower.

This was a post from October last year when I really got involved with doing this, no issues in any of mine.  Check the pics of the different options too.  It was fun doing a mix and match with things.


https://www.instagram.com/mbrimson88/p/DQJjoTQE4nN/

[Mbrimson88]

What do you think are the bushings with the "snappiest" rebound/ return to center

Without getting too deep into specific bushing brands, duro options or a lot more, the two main things with bushings that allow for that very quick return to center is breaking them in gently and not doing them up too tightly, so they can do what they are supposed to do.

Brand new bushings for the most part will need a bit of time to get them going nicely, but also having the best tightness on them will also help with everything in the way they perform too - tightened down too much and they aren't allowed to perform to their maximum capacity, or left too loose and they will wobble and not be stable, even with the hardest bushings on the market.

I know some people will always say having the kingpin nut flush is the best position, but I could also say that for a good number of bushings I have on the go, having them down a thread or more also works just fine and I usually take the kingpins down to match easily enough with an angle grinder so everything fits just right.


Now as to which bushings will work best, I have had a lot of brands of both stock and aftermarket, not limited to Indy, Thunder, Venture, Ace, Slappy, then Bones bushings and other specific brands sold separately, but would say quite often that the bushings of 90, 95, 100 or other duro options can all be made to work well, or can all also have issues, depending on the user, the trucks, the washers, etc.

If you prefer harder bushings, or tighter trucks, it might narrow the field considerably, but even some of the harder options out there can still end up quite loose feeling as they break in and compress, so for some I have seen, in no way can they be so tight that there would be very little movement in the trucks and still have a good rebound on them.

For some people, it almost seems like the tighter the trucks, the more issues people have with them, but I think with a bit of time and patience, almost any bushing brand can be made to work well under the right circumstances.  Some people change bushings out every other week, or month, or even shorter times, if things are not working how they are supposed to, but I think these people often don't put in the time to break in bushings that well either.


* That might be way too long, without actually helping at all, so I am sorry there, but I guess if you have bought a good number of bushings and have been working through them, a bit of time is the main thing to get them worn in nicely, after which they should have a bit more rebound and do as needed.

[DNTRODDEN]

Expand Quote

What do you think are the bushings with the "snappiest" rebound/ return to center

[close]

Without getting too deep into specific bushing brands, duro options or a lot more, the two main things with bushings that allow for that very quick return to center is breaking them in gently and not doing them up too tightly, so they can do what they are supposed to do.

Brand new bushings for the most part will need a bit of time to get them going nicely, but also having the best tightness on them will also help with everything in the way they perform too - tightened down too much and they aren't allowed to perform to their maximum capacity, or left too loose and they will wobble and not be stable, even with the hardest bushings on the market.

I know some people will always say having the kingpin nut flush is the best position, but I could also say that for a good number of bushings I have on the go, having them down a thread or more also works just fine and I usually take the kingpins down to match easily enough with an angle grinder so everything fits just right.


Now as to which bushings will work best, I have had a lot of brands of both stock and aftermarket, not limited to Indy, Thunder, Venture, Ace, Slappy, then Bones bushings and other specific brands sold separately, but would say quite often that the bushings of 90, 95, 100 or other duro options can all be made to work well, or can all also have issues, depending on the user, the trucks, the washers, etc.

If you prefer harder bushings, or tighter trucks, it might narrow the field considerably, but even some of the harder options out there can still end up quite loose feeling as they break in and compress, so for some I have seen, in no way can they be so tight that there would be very little movement in the trucks and still have a good rebound on them.

For some people, it almost seems like the tighter the trucks, the more issues people have with them, but I think with a bit of time and patience, almost any bushing brand can be made to work well under the right circumstances.  Some people change bushings out every other week, or month, or even shorter times, if things are not working how they are supposed to, but I think these people often don't put in the time to break in bushings that well either.


* That might be way too long, without actually helping at all, so I am sorry there, but I guess if you have bought a good number of bushings and have been working through them, a bit of time is the main thing to get them worn in nicely, after which they should have a bit more rebound and do as needed.

Super great answer, in respects, and information I will take gladly and use.

I maybe should have been more detailed in the asking, but I was just asking about different urethanes and such, Ace feel sort of middle ground for snap to center for me, Slappy much better, Bones Hardcore are pretty strong back to center as well, and FWIW, Mini logos feel good for me too.

YMMV

[swongolianbbq]

I also usually have a thread or two showing vs nut flush, with stock bushings. Wallie-ing boulders and shit usually takes the kingpin down for me hahah

after testing venture stock, ace stock, ace hard, Indy stock, and a few different flavors of aftermarket indys in cylinder and conical, even some tensor interlocking top bushings in 2021, and bones, there's definitely a difference with the Bones ones.

The geo of the truck determines a lot of the feel too obviously. I thought the ace hards (94a) in AF1s were quite nice and zippy, but stable on center. A really sassy combo I found with indy trucks was blue conical bottom bushings, no bottom washers, and bones hard top bushings and stock washers. Super fun

I only use the 96a/hard bones and I only use the top bushings but it certainly made a difference in rebound/snappiness for me

The medium tops work too but might not be as durable as the hards. I know decenzo uses bones medium tops and stock-everything else, and Spanly skates bones mediums top & bottom in AF1 44s, and I've seen them opening up new packs all the time. Doesn't seem super sustainable to me, but damned if they don't feel great before they explode. Haven't had a top one blow out yet but I've seen it and the hards definitely seem to stay together far longer in my experience

The bottom bones bushings always seem to blow out and I don't want to mess with the trucks geo and washers and stuff, so I keep the bottom bushings stock.


Curious about riptide krank formula but I'm happy with what I have now and won't be trying them myself. I might get them for my friend that is having a bit of bushing madness


Anybody know if an old kreper/grind king kingpin will work in the newer sleeved Indy ikp baseplates? Is there enough threading on the krepers?

[Mbrimson88]

Anybody know if an old kreper/grind king kingpin will work in the newer sleeved Indy ikp baseplates? Is there enough threading on the krepers?

Most of the older inverted kingpins seemed to have a lot more thread on them, so they should fit into more trucks.

Thunder (and I think Ace) have way longer threaded parts right from the top in the inverted baseplate, but Indy had only the lower threaded part, so almost anything will fit in there easily, at least way more easily than in some other brands.

The old Grind King (and Kreeper) inverted kingpins had about a medium length thread that I have, as per this post, third frame, left side black kingpins.

The only thing I would do first is just use a rethreader on the end point of the inverted kingpin to make sure the end is good, as some of the kingpins I got from I don't know where were a bit funny on the ends.


https://www.instagram.com/mbrimson88/p/DDQvft8hh9R/