Wheels Thread

[metchup]

I’m having this really annoying problem with my rear truck on one side, the bearing keeps slipping out of the wheel ever so slightly after every slappy and locking the wheel up. I’ve had this happen on 95a 60mm OJ’s, 95a 57mm Dogtowns, and now tonight on some 60mm 93a Dragons (holy fuck the best wheels for indoor if you haven’t tried them buy them just for that reason they actually allow you to skate like you’re outside).

I’ve tried running spacers and those proved to be useless. The axle (AF1 44’s) is not bent. I tried tapping the axle itself real hard on the ground without the wheel on while keeping the other one on to see if maybe it was axle slip, but I don’t think that’s the problem as I couldn’t get it to “slip” and make the one with the wheel on seize up. I don’t recall this happening with 97a+ in hardness with spitfires or any other wheel.

Anyone ever experience this? Is it just the softer wheels not having a plastic core to hold the bearings in? Bearings I’m using are Bronson Raw’s which I never thought these things would be legit but they really are hauling ass and not seizing up on their own.

Maybe try some Ricta cores if you can find a wheel that suits you

Edit, first link on google https://shop.ccs.com/products/ricta-crystal-cores-95a-skateboard-wheels-54mm?variant=39798543483063&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIosvdh5-9_AIVKyitBh1WKA7BEAQYAiABEgJRI_D_BwE

[BMCsteve]

I’m having this really annoying problem with my rear truck on one side, the bearing keeps slipping out of the wheel ever so slightly after every slappy and locking the wheel up. I’ve had this happen on 95a 60mm OJ’s, 95a 57mm Dogtowns, and now tonight on some 60mm 93a Dragons (holy fuck the best wheels for indoor if you haven’t tried them buy them just for that reason they actually allow you to skate like you’re outside).

I’ve tried running spacers and those proved to be useless. The axle (AF1 44’s) is not bent. I tried tapping the axle itself real hard on the ground without the wheel on while keeping the other one on to see if maybe it was axle slip, but I don’t think that’s the problem as I couldn’t get it to “slip” and make the one with the wheel on seize up. I don’t recall this happening with 97a+ in hardness with spitfires or any other wheel.

Anyone ever experience this? Is it just the softer wheels not having a plastic core to hold the bearings in? Bearings I’m using are Bronson Raw’s which I never thought these things would be legit but they really are hauling ass and not seizing up on their own.

If it's only happening to that one side of a truck with different wheels, it's likely how you slappy.  I have the exact same thing with my rear heel side wheel no matter what wheel I use (even 99 spits).  A cored wheel will solve it and the ricta's noted above look great

[logjammin]

Expand Quote

I’m having this really annoying problem with my rear truck on one side, the bearing keeps slipping out of the wheel ever so slightly after every slappy and locking the wheel up. I’ve had this happen on 95a 60mm OJ’s, 95a 57mm Dogtowns, and now tonight on some 60mm 93a Dragons (holy fuck the best wheels for indoor if you haven’t tried them buy them just for that reason they actually allow you to skate like you’re outside).

I’ve tried running spacers and those proved to be useless. The axle (AF1 44’s) is not bent. I tried tapping the axle itself real hard on the ground without the wheel on while keeping the other one on to see if maybe it was axle slip, but I don’t think that’s the problem as I couldn’t get it to “slip” and make the one with the wheel on seize up. I don’t recall this happening with 97a+ in hardness with spitfires or any other wheel.

Anyone ever experience this? Is it just the softer wheels not having a plastic core to hold the bearings in? Bearings I’m using are Bronson Raw’s which I never thought these things would be legit but they really are hauling ass and not seizing up on their own.

[close]

If it's only happening to that one side of a truck with different wheels, it's likely how you slappy.  I have the exact same thing with my rear heel side wheel no matter what wheel I use (even 99 spits).  A cored wheel will solve it and the ricta's noted above look great

Well, with 97a-100a Spitfires I have never had this issue so I guess I'm gonna try out some cored wheels. I can't do those Rictas they look like some kind of Walmart wheel lol. I did some research and it looks like some OJ keyframes are what I need for grip at the indoor+no bearing slip since they're cored. Thanks for the replies guys.

[Easy Slider]

I didn‘t have it on Bones 100s nor Lil Smokies but have it on Spitfire Classics now. Sucks.

[Mbrimson88]

I’m having this really annoying problem with my rear truck on one side, the bearing keeps slipping out of the wheel ever so slightly after every slappy and locking the wheel up. I’ve had this happen on 95a 60mm OJ’s, 95a 57mm Dogtowns, and now tonight on some 60mm 93a Dragons (holy fuck the best wheels for indoor if you haven’t tried them buy them just for that reason they actually allow you to skate like you’re outside).

I’ve tried running spacers and those proved to be useless. The axle (AF1 44’s) is not bent. I tried tapping the axle itself real hard on the ground without the wheel on while keeping the other one on to see if maybe it was axle slip, but I don’t think that’s the problem as I couldn’t get it to “slip” and make the one with the wheel on seize up. I don’t recall this happening with 97a+ in hardness with spitfires or any other wheel.

Anyone ever experience this? Is it just the softer wheels not having a plastic core to hold the bearings in? Bearings I’m using are Bronson Raw’s which I never thought these things would be legit but they really are hauling ass and not seizing up on their own.

You might have figured it out, as per other comments, but I would ask / check these things just to make sure:


1. Skate the board backwards (if possible) and do the same trick you do - slappies shouldn't need kicks or direction like some other tricks, but I don't know what you are riding.

2. Rotate the wheels and see if it is that position more so than one particular wheel

3. By using spacers and checking things are almost locked down (add a washer in the middle area with spacer if needed) so there is no play, does this solve the issue? 


Note:  I prefer to run normal bearings in wheels, no spacers with some play so am not a fan of this, but this is what I had to do with one set of wheels that the middle area was coming loose.  Ended up putting the Bones Race Reds in there - the ones with the built in spacers and it solved the problem with the wheels too.  Not saying you have to get those, but there are other brands that do them too, but they definitely solve any and all wheel bearing seat slip issues, even if it makes the board sound different, at least you will not have to deal with pushing the wheel back on correctly after every run.


Added this link just to show you, in case anyone doesn't know, they have the extra built in middle area, which acts like a spacer, only it is preventing any movement in the bearing, axle position, etc.  The "go fast down hills" type of people use them a lot, and I wasn't really that keen on them, but they worked for those wheels, so I came away with a different perspective after that.

https://bonesbearings.com/bones-reg-race-reds-reg-skateboard-bearings-8-pack

[metchup]

Are dragon formulas quieter like a normal soft wheel? Think indoor mini ramp in a garage with a shared wall

[FirstBlood82]

Are dragon formulas quieter like a normal soft wheel? Think indoor mini ramp in a garage with a shared wall

Very quiet

[goodatmeth]

Expand Quote

I’m having this really annoying problem with my rear truck on one side, the bearing keeps slipping out of the wheel ever so slightly after every slappy and locking the wheel up. I’ve had this happen on 95a 60mm OJ’s, 95a 57mm Dogtowns, and now tonight on some 60mm 93a Dragons (holy fuck the best wheels for indoor if you haven’t tried them buy them just for that reason they actually allow you to skate like you’re outside).

I’ve tried running spacers and those proved to be useless. The axle (AF1 44’s) is not bent. I tried tapping the axle itself real hard on the ground without the wheel on while keeping the other one on to see if maybe it was axle slip, but I don’t think that’s the problem as I couldn’t get it to “slip” and make the one with the wheel on seize up. I don’t recall this happening with 97a+ in hardness with spitfires or any other wheel.

Anyone ever experience this? Is it just the softer wheels not having a plastic core to hold the bearings in? Bearings I’m using are Bronson Raw’s which I never thought these things would be legit but they really are hauling ass and not seizing up on their own.

[close]

Added this link just to show you, in case anyone doesn't know, they have the extra built in middle area, which acts like a spacer, only it is preventing any movement in the bearing, axle position, etc.  The "go fast down hills" type of people use them a lot, and I wasn't really that keen on them, but they worked for those wheels, so I came away with a different perspective after that.

https://bonesbearings.com/bones-reg-race-reds-reg-skateboard-bearings-8-pack

I'm wondering how race reds work, since spacers are rarely the right size. Which wheels do race reds actually fit right? It must suck to get them and then you can't even fully get both bearings inside the wheel because the middle part of the wheel is too short. And if the middle part of the wheel is too long, you just paid more money to get regular reds...

[elegant_fox]

I've fit race reds into the 54mm Dragons, the 55mm Spitfire Conical Fulls, Spitfire 52mm classics, and Bones 60mm V5s. They all fit no problem with the nut flush on the axle end(all on Indy trucks). You just have to run without speed rings, which is how they're designed to be used.

[logjammin]

My locals don't have any race reds, as most skate shops have no reason to carry them probably. In one of those moods where I don't wanna wait for shit to come in the mail so I am trying some 87a keyframes that my local has, as BMCsteve suggested I hope the plastic core will stop the bearing slippage.

[Xen]

I've fit race reds into the 54mm Dragons, the 55mm Spitfire Conical Fulls, Spitfire 52mm classics, and Bones 60mm V5s. They all fit no problem with the nut flush on the axle end(all on Indy trucks). You just have to run without speed rings, which is how they're designed to be used.

My race reds fit great in dragons. I only used them given how soft the wheel is so I could lock them down; as for no speed ring usage, that depends on the truck and wheel width...I use one extra speed ring on the inside with my dragons so the nut is flush with end of axle.

[goodatmeth]

I've fit race reds into the 54mm Dragons, the 55mm Spitfire Conical Fulls, Spitfire 52mm classics, and Bones 60mm V5s. They all fit no problem with the nut flush on the axle end(all on Indy trucks). You just have to run without speed rings, which is how they're designed to be used.

Of course they fit, but do the insides actually touch? Because if they don't, they're just like regular reds. That's what I'm wondering

[elegant_fox]

Expand Quote

I've fit race reds into the 54mm Dragons, the 55mm Spitfire Conical Fulls, Spitfire 52mm classics, and Bones 60mm V5s. They all fit no problem with the nut flush on the axle end(all on Indy trucks). You just have to run without speed rings, which is how they're designed to be used.

[close]

Of course they fit, but do the insides actually touch? Because if they don't, they're just like regular reds. That's what I'm wondering

Each bearing has a 1/2 extended inner race that essentially replaces the spacers you would get with a swiss package. If you have a wheel that has such a large gap between the bearing seats that they don't touch when running a spacer, I would retire them and get some that fit to standard spec.

From Bones:

"Each Bones Race REDS Bearings is made with upgraded top quality bearing steel, ground to perfection and polished, best for racers who use precision trucks and properly tighten their axle nuts

Precision ground 0.200 built in spacer to provide perfect 0.400 spacing between bearings.

Precision ground extended race eliminates the need for speed washers, and provides better alignment of the bearings when the axle nut is tightened."


I think the reason you might not see many folks running these is they're more of a longboarding/speedboarding approach to bearing fitment where you need a precise alignment of the bearing for 35mph+ speeds.

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

I've fit race reds into the 54mm Dragons, the 55mm Spitfire Conical Fulls, Spitfire 52mm classics, and Bones 60mm V5s. They all fit no problem with the nut flush on the axle end(all on Indy trucks). You just have to run without speed rings, which is how they're designed to be used.

[close]

Of course they fit, but do the insides actually touch? Because if they don't, they're just like regular reds. That's what I'm wondering

I guess with some other spacers, the spacer can vary in size, but those Race Reds bearings seemed to hit the spot, so to speak, as they appeared to fit perfectly in any set of wheels I tried them in while I still had them.

When the board with those wheels was passed on to someone else, I left the bearings in the wheels, to stop the next owner from having similar issues.

My locals don't have any race reds, as most skate shops have no reason to carry them probably. In one of those moods where I don't wanna wait for shit to come in the mail so I am trying some 87a keyframes that my local has, as BMCsteve suggested I hope the plastic core will stop the bearing slippage.

At least there is an option if or when you might want to try them in the future.  I am not a guy to endorse any particular products - I like what I like and everyone has their own opinions, but that sort of bearing with the extented inner, no matter what the brand, could be a good fix for you.

I am curious if it happens in other wheels now too.

[goodatmeth]

Makes sense, I didn't know if the problem of spacers rarely fitting wheels right is because of poor spacer or wheel tolerances. If most cheap spacers are at fault, I can see the race reds working perfectly.

While it's still hard to believe that companies get the spacer size wrong. It must be a lot harder to make precise bearing seats in wheels than making a precise spacer.

[rawbertson.]

Can someone explain to me what is up with my OJ Wheels + Bronson Beaerings combo, maybe it is because the wheels are very wide?
they are 58mm Natas OJ wheel with Bronson G3 bearings. I used all the spacers and rings in between and outside. I can tighten the nut fully and there is the tiniest bit of play but its absolutely perfect. where normally, this has been my experience in 25 years of skating, when i set up wheels / bearings, i have to back off from tightening the nut fully on because otherwise there is NO play at all and the wheel just cannot spin. whats different about this combo? is it because i have the spacers? or because the wheels are wider? it was both on Indy 159 + Ace 60s i believe the same thing happens (currently its on the Aces i can confirm this happens) not complaining, just interesting

[Richard Skidder]

Makes sense, I didn't know if the problem of spacers rarely fitting wheels right is because of poor spacer or wheel tolerances. If most cheap spacers are at fault, I can see the race reds working perfectly.

While it's still hard to believe that companies get the spacer size wrong. It must be a lot harder to make precise bearing seats in wheels than making a precise spacer.

It’s incredibly hard to make precise bearing seats in wheels because of the amount shrink as the urethane cures is difficult to account for. Slight variations in temperature and humidity causes the urethane to shrink at different rates even within the same batch. Not to mention the expansion and contraction the finished product can go through during shipping and storage whether it be at the distributor or in the shop case itself.

[commander jameson]

Can someone explain to me what is up with my OJ Wheels + Bronson Beaerings combo, maybe it is because the wheels are very wide?
they are 58mm Natas OJ wheel with Bronson G3 bearings. I used all the spacers and rings in between and outside. I can tighten the nut fully and there is the tiniest bit of play but its absolutely perfect. where normally, this has been my experience in 25 years of skating, when i set up wheels / bearings, i have to back off from tightening the nut fully on because otherwise there is NO play at all and the wheel just cannot spin. whats different about this combo? is it because i have the spacers? or because the wheels are wider? it was both on Indy 159 + Ace 60s i believe the same thing happens (currently its on the Aces i can confirm this happens) not complaining, just interesting

It is because you have spacers in wheels.

[Banned from the room]

Thank pals. I'm ordering the wheels tonight.

I'm rebuilding my peace chest. Everything I had on ice is gone or in play.

I do appreciate y'all very much and I hope y'all are having a good day

[drinny]

Anyone else chime in on Spitfire F4 97 vs Bones X97’s ?

Which is faster on smooth parks?

Hard to say what I’m looking for.

(I expect both will handle crust as a given.. I went from Keyframes to F4s which is quite a big gap in feel but “close enough” for what I was looking for).

[intendedreceivers]

Expand Quote

I've fit race reds into the 54mm Dragons, the 55mm Spitfire Conical Fulls, Spitfire 52mm classics, and Bones 60mm V5s. They all fit no problem with the nut flush on the axle end(all on Indy trucks). You just have to run without speed rings, which is how they're designed to be used.

[close]

Of course they fit, but do the insides actually touch? Because if they don't, they're just like regular reds. That's what I'm wondering

I don’t believe the the races touch in the middle, at least not on all wheels, but the extra surface area of the larger inner race is what keeps the bearings seated. They don’t have to butt into each other to work. Basically, the longer race makes it harder for the bearings to twist around in the seat. Better execution of the spacer concept. Plus you don’t really need washers. They’re great bearings.

[goodatmeth]

First day on the 52mm dragons:

I measured them before putting them on and all of them were between 51.65 and 51.75 mm. Bones wheels usually come a bit bigger than advertised, so that's kind of weird. My 54mm 103 stf were all around 54.2 mm.

I'm super happy with these, they made my local park fun again. Extremely smooth and fast on terrible ground and I can still do crooked grinds on the worst angle iron ledges without any problems. Of course there's a bit more drag, but it's way better than expected.

[j....soy.....]

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Expand Quote

I've fit race reds into the 54mm Dragons, the 55mm Spitfire Conical Fulls, Spitfire 52mm classics, and Bones 60mm V5s. They all fit no problem with the nut flush on the axle end(all on Indy trucks). You just have to run without speed rings, which is how they're designed to be used.

[close]

Of course they fit, but do the insides actually touch? Because if they don't, they're just like regular reds. That's what I'm wondering

[close]

I don’t believe the the races touch in the middle, at least not on all wheels, but the extra surface area of the larger inner race is what keeps the bearings seated. They don’t have to butt into each other to work. Basically, the longer race makes it harder for the bearings to twist around in the seat. Better execution of the spacer concept. Plus you don’t really need washers. They’re great bearings.

I had issues fitting them in properly to spitfires, the cores were inconsistent.  I enjoy this set up also because yeah, it's easier to swap stuff out when all you have is two bearings and an axel nut. 

[elegant_fox]

Just ordered some 60mm Rat Bones in the Dragon formula. Trying these out as an ATV counter part to the 60mm Bones SPF on my 9.05 setup.

Hopefully they won’t be too chonky.

[Sundaynuggets]

Just ordered some 60mm Rat Bones in the Dragon formula. Trying these out as an ATV counter part to the 60mm Bones SPF on my 9.05 setup.

Hopefully they won’t be too chonky.

I’ve been skating those for a couple weeks and they are less chunky than I expected they would be. Not saying they are nimble, but not too bad

[bombsaway86]

One of my buddies was riding some ~54mm dragons at the park the other day. He had no problem getting enough speed to catch some good airs in the big bowl. I’m pretty sold on them after that and will probably get a set when my current crust wheels are done

[elegant_fox]

Expand Quote

Just ordered some 60mm Rat Bones in the Dragon formula. Trying these out as an ATV counter part to the 60mm Bones SPF on my 9.05 setup.

Hopefully they won’t be too chonky.

[close]

I’ve been skating those for a couple weeks and they are less chunky than I expected they would be. Not saying they are nimble, but not too bad

That's great to hear, I think after trying 5+ sets of Spitfire wheels over the past year, I can say they don't really work for me. Bones SPF is faster in the bowls and while F4 is nice on glassy pristine street spots, it's just too hard for 90% of my street riding.

It's a shame, since I just picked up some of the multi-color Evan Smith 55mm conical fulls in the little wood box. 2 sessions later I was back on Dragons.

[drinny]

Anyone else chime in on Spitfire F4 97 vs Bones X97’s ?

Which is faster on smooth parks?

Hard to say what I’m looking for.

(I expect both will handle crust as a given.. I went from Keyframes to F4s which is quite a big gap in feel but “close enough” for what I was looking for).

or even F4 97 vs. Dragons (I think Ben Degros did this comparison maybe)

[Sundaynuggets]

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Just ordered some 60mm Rat Bones in the Dragon formula. Trying these out as an ATV counter part to the 60mm Bones SPF on my 9.05 setup.

Hopefully they won’t be too chonky.

[close]

I’ve been skating those for a couple weeks and they are less chunky than I expected they would be. Not saying they are nimble, but not too bad

[close]

That's great to hear, I think after trying 5+ sets of Spitfire wheels over the past year, I can say they don't really work for me. Bones SPF is faster in the bowls and while F4 is nice on glassy pristine street spots, it's just too hard for 90% of my street riding.

It's a shame, since I just picked up some of the multi-color Evan Smith 55mm conical fulls in the little wood box. 2 sessions later I was back on Dragons.

Yeah, I spend the majority of my time skating through the city and stopping from spot to spot so I would carry cruiser wheels and f4 and switch off depending on where is was. Dragons have been a nice middle ground so I don’t have to lug extra stuff around

[Bruiser603]

Anyone else chime in on Spitfire F4 97 vs Bones X97’s ?

Which is faster on smooth parks?

Hard to say what I’m looking for.

(I expect both will handle crust as a given.. I went from Keyframes to F4s which is quite a big gap in feel but “close enough” for what I was looking for).

For smooth parks, the Formula Fours are faster in my experience.  I'm probably way over thinking this, but the X formula's have a higher rebound and a bit more 'give' than the spitfires.  I think the 'give' is great for absorption of impact and rougher surfaces, but the double edge is a minor loss of speed after an impact or pumping.  Is it crazy noticeable to me?  Naw.  I think they are both awesome wheels.