slappy/curb discussion thread

[Heshrat]

I got a few fs noseslide to sw 5o grinds tonight on a curb… excited to learn em on a ledge this weekend

[big_kev_215]

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I figured out slappy front crooks to regular today. The single most important tip for getting out of slappy crooks to regular was posted on Slap but I just want to post it again because it is buried somewhere:

For backside crooks to regular your backfoot needs to be in the heel pocket, for frontside crooks, in the toe pocket, in a really exaggerated manner that will feel strange and uncomfortable. For bs, only your toes stay on the board, with the rest of the foot hanging of. For fs, only the heel stays on the board, with the toes hanging of. I suck at physics but quite magically, this gives you the leverage to just slip/slide of the curb naturally once you start losing speed/traction on the curb.

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Where do you distribute your weight for the FS crooks?

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My back foot is barely even on when I do front crooks, all the weight goes on that front foot until you're ready to pop out and you transfer your weight back to the rear leg...

Stylish, elegant, well-executed

This guy front crooks

[rawbertson.]

was jsut watching the new ben de gros video and noticed he put the rails in at 1-1/8" and he said it was no good, they should have been closer together. What would be a good distance to put them then on a 8.75? 1.25"? 1.5"?

is there a certain amount you should go up when going to bigger boards?

[big_kev_215]

was jsut watching the new ben de gros video and noticed he put the rails in at 1-1/8" and he said it was no good, they should have been closer together. What would be a good distance to put them then on a 8.75? 1.25"? 1.5"?

is there a certain amount you should go up when going to bigger boards?

I have rails like 1.25” (maybe slightly less) in from the sides and I wish I put them in a little further.  For boardslide to hurricane and feeble I can use them to like lift up into it but it’s hard to hold that almost manual-like stance leaning on the rails smoothly (most likely lack of user skill as much as the rail placement).  If they were in further, maybe 1.5”ish, and the angle was less steep, it would definitely be more ideal. 

[streetmeat]

was jsut watching the new ben de gros video and noticed he put the rails in at 1-1/8" and he said it was no good, they should have been closer together. What would be a good distance to put them then on a 8.75? 1.25"? 1.5"?

is there a certain amount you should go up when going to bigger boards?

i've always put mine at 1" in. never had an issue with leverage for doing the combo tricks (on an 8.5 deck fwiw)

also, lil jawns makes those moth rails that are supposed to make the lean back easier. i have a pair, just haven't set em up yet

[BartHarleyJarvis]

was jsut watching the new ben de gros video and noticed he put the rails in at 1-1/8" and he said it was no good, they should have been closer together. What would be a good distance to put them then on a 8.75? 1.25"? 1.5"?

is there a certain amount you should go up when going to bigger boards?

Tbh I don’t even measure though I probably should. I usually set up my board and ride it for 15-20 minutes, do some carves and grinds to see where my wheelbite marks will be, then place the rails slightly inside the wheelbite marks. So far that’s worked pretty well.

In the past I’ve measured around an 1” in and they’ve been too far apart and I still end up scraping a ton of graphic and not sliding on the rails enough, especially if the board has more concave

[rawbertson.]

Ben replied to my comment on his video, I asked him what he thought would be ideal since 1-1/8" didnt work, and he said he ended up moving his to 1.5" 

[landedprimo]

Ben replied to my comment on his video, I asked him what he thought would be ideal since 1-1/8" didnt work, and he said he ended up moving his to 1.5" 

Nice. I'm getting some for my curb board. Thanks for sharing.

[yghartsyrt]

When I set up rails, I usually set them up that they are moved about 0,7 inch inside. I like it, when the board has three points of contact - the rails and the deepest end of the concave. This way i still have enough leverage for boardslides to hurricane

[SatanicPanic]

My friend did a slappy front crook on a curb the other day. We were filming so he took a few runs at it and the one he got was beautiful. Super stoked to use it in our homie vid.

I’ve started learning them myself and got a really crappy one yesterday. I’ve been working up to it by trying to get good at FS noseslides. I’m starting to think that’s a waste of time and that FS crooks are actually easier than front nose.

[144p]

Just to confirm Ben’s suggestion I also do 1.5 in on my rails for maximum leverage. I would say depth of concave can affect leverage as well but if you want that sweet spot for the bordicane or board slide to feeble then hit that spot on the bend of the concave which tends to be about 1.5” in.

[Jory4]

I posted this a few pages back for slappy FS crooks but figure it might help for people who missed it:

Watch the video to see what I’m talking about…..

Here’s my tips FWIW…

Wax helps but too much wax means you slip out easy.

I don’t weight my heel at all,

Front foot is at 45 degrees maybe toes very slightly hanging off, back foot on the bolts or just behind. ( edit like the post above, my back heel is hanging off the heel side edge.

Approach at a bit less than 45 degrees and carve in on your toes ever so slightly on final approach ( so you hit at about 45 )


Just before your wheels hit, (& this is the key bit!) push the board slightly in front of you and unweight the front foot so the front wheels are weightless as they actually hit the curb and can ride up.

Immediately weight the ball/ toes of your front foot and stand up on it but still pushing forward if that makes sense!

Hopefully you can see the above in this clip, I’ve kinda scrubbed back and forth to show what I’m describing,

https://i.imgur.com/Sc1wNLP.mp4

EDIT: To get out to regs I find I focus on pushing the ball of my front foot away from me again so I’m leaning back slightly then transfer your weight to the back foot like you’re coming out of a Fs nose slide. You can pivot out a bit that way too. It’s easier on a more waxy curb.

To come out fakie you just stand up on the front truck more and your momentum pulls you out. This is the easier option on a sticky curb.

I don’t think learning FS noseslides helps much, it’s a different action.



Also for SW crooks ( at least BS ) I find really exaggerating that push away from you while making sure you keep your shoulders “closed” to the curb rather than open really helps.


My Final 2 cents on the question of vertical curbs. That’s all we have too. You just need to really lean back and really go light to let the board ride up….

This is a totally vertical curb. See how straight my front leg gets as my wheels hit……

https://i.imgur.com/HLbMGF2.mp4

[landedprimo]

This is excellent! Bookmarked this one for sure.

[SatanicPanic]

Those are great tips. Someone else suggested for FS crooks you weight your heel right before you hit the curb to bring your toe side up, then shift your weight to your toe and the lean up onto the curb like a normal slappy. This helped me.

[Jory4]

Those are great tips. Someone else suggested for FS crooks you weight your heel right before you hit the curb to bring your toe side up, then shift your weight to your toe and the lean up onto the curb like a normal slappy. This helped me.

I was gonna say I don’t weight my front heel at all but thinking about it, I definitely steer slightly heel side with my front heel during the push forward I described above. So literally the split second before my wheels hit and I unweight the front foot

[SatanicPanic]

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Those are great tips. Someone else suggested for FS crooks you weight your heel right before you hit the curb to bring your toe side up, then shift your weight to your toe and the lean up onto the curb like a normal slappy. This helped me.

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I was gonna say I don’t weight my front heel at all but thinking about it, I definitely steer slightly heel side with my front heel during the push forward I described above. So literally the split second before my wheels hit and I unweight the front foot

Exactly this. Someone described it as quickly rocking back and forth which sounded odd but it works

[Heywood Jeblowme]

Been trying half cab turn to crooks and can never lock the wheel. Switch nose bump to ssbsts is fun

[Jory4]

After what seems like a month straight of rain and puddles everywhere, I Learnt BS slappy smiths today…….

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnW5GBLJcVf/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Got close to Slappy feeble on a single sided curb too but the sidewalk is so rough I couldn’t get one!

https://i.imgur.com/eXgd9Qq.mp4

My old knees hurt now……

[SatanicPanic]

Learnt BS slappy smiths today…….

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CnW5GBLJcVf/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Got close to Slappy feeble on a single sided curb too but the sidewalk is so rough I couldn’t get one!

https://i.imgur.com/eXgd9Qq.mp4

My old knees hurt now……

Slappy feebles on single sided curbs are so frustrating. I can do them but it requires a very slick curb and tons of attempts. They’re also one of the few slappy tricks where going faster doesn’t help. At least for me.

[Aquatic Dinosaur]

I’ve spent multiple sessions this month slamming a curb I found, but with no luck learning bs or fs.  The curb I’m trying to learn it on has super rough asphalt ground.  Is that having an affect on me trying to learn this trick? Would smooth ground easier?

[Gene_Harrogate]

I’ve spent multiple sessions this month slamming a curb I found, but with no luck learning bs or fs.  The curb I’m trying to learn it on has super rough asphalt ground.  Is that having an affect on me trying to learn this trick? Would smooth ground easier?

I know for me rough ground right before an obstacle I'm skating can be distracting enough to hinder me.  Plus skating rough ground for long periods starts to rattle my feet till they go sort of numb.  97 or 95a wheels can help depending on how rough we're talking.

[manysnakes]

I’ve spent multiple sessions this month slamming a curb I found, but with no luck learning bs or fs.  The curb I’m trying to learn it on has super rough asphalt ground.  Is that having an affect on me trying to learn this trick? Would smooth ground easier?

Just a basic slappy? I learned both on banked curbs and I don't think I would have been able to get them if I started out trying them curbs angled at 45°. I started on pretty rough PNW asphalt and that didn't seem to make a difference, personally.

[rawbertson.]

if its a complete wall curb or even worse one that sticks up on an opposite angle, bad ground can be annoying because i cant get a good powerslide. but its usually not a problem.

the way i learned it
found one with a slight angle first its wayyyy easier...
do the BS one just slashing up it like you would a quarter pipe
then learn the fs one. you gotta fs powerslide slash into it and go up on 2 wheels (not like a manual but 1 on each heel)
then go clean up your bs one by applying same technique
now you can learn crook, 5-0, smith, switch etc

slappies are hard until they are easy

[Aquatic Dinosaur]

Thanks, yeah just basic bs and fs slappies.  The curb has a very slight angle, it’s about 70-80 degrees.  A bank to curb would be amazing.  I might go out and try to find a better curb, seems like everything around my house was made by the same builders, most curbs are vert.

[manysnakes]

Who can recommend a good roll-on lacquer for curbs? I want an alternative to noisy spray cans for the obvious reason and concrete sealer because it hasn’t managed to take on this curb.

[TheDingus]

We use Varathane oil based lacquer. Takes about a solid 24 hours to fully dry but it’s worth it.

[Krooked antihero]

Thanks, yeah just basic bs and fs slappies.  The curb has a very slight angle, it’s about 70-80 degrees.  A bank to curb would be amazing.  I might go out and try to find a better curb, seems like everything around my house was made by the same builders, most curbs are vert.

For me the key to slappies were when someone said that front truck goes up first,before that I tried to bash my way up standing on back truck like skating transition, after that it just clicked learned both ways in like 15mins.

[Easy Slider]

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Thanks, yeah just basic bs and fs slappies.  The curb has a very slight angle, it’s about 70-80 degrees.  A bank to curb would be amazing.  I might go out and try to find a better curb, seems like everything around my house was made by the same builders, most curbs are vert.

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For me the key to slappies were when someone said that front truck goes up first,before that I tried to bash my way up standing on back truck like skating transition, after that it just clicked learned both ways in like 15mins.

Yeah, at first it helps to bash into the curb with the back foot over the bolts because you have the reflex to lift the nose. Once you are got them on lock you can move the foot back a little because it‘s easier to pop out. Whatever you do, don‘t lift the front truck or it is not a slappy.

[Krooked antihero]

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Thanks, yeah just basic bs and fs slappies.  The curb has a very slight angle, it’s about 70-80 degrees.  A bank to curb would be amazing.  I might go out and try to find a better curb, seems like everything around my house was made by the same builders, most curbs are vert.

[close]

For me the key to slappies were when someone said that front truck goes up first,before that I tried to bash my way up standing on back truck like skating transition, after that it just clicked learned both ways in like 15mins.

[close]

Yeah, at first it helps to bash into the curb with the back foot over the bolts because you have the reflex to lift the nose. Once you are got them on lock you can move the foot back a little because it‘s easier to pop out. Whatever you do, don‘t lift the front truck or it is not a slappy.

Yup, these days I’m able to slappy slightly angled curb both feet in the middle of the board, that feels so fun but it took me few years to get there. That backfoot tip is very good, solid advice.

[manysnakes]

We use Varathane oil based lacquer. Takes about a solid 24 hours to fully dry but it’s worth it.

Thank you. Is there a particular one you use? I notice that most of them appear to be intended for wood.