Gear madness support thread

[Kombuch-A-Holic]

I just started skating a Hockey 8.25 and I'm really enjoying it so far. Thought it would be too square but I actually really dig the shape a lot. Seems like recently I've gravitated towards really full shapes. Are you skating Indy standards or forged on yours? I keep going back and forth trying to decide what I like better. Truck madness is the absolute worst 

Indy standards 144. I feel you.

[Sedition]

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I hate the DLX 8.25 cuz it has no fingers of flat as Ben D calls it. Kicks turn up after the bolts and a short tail.

[close]

Uhm….what?

[close]

Pretty simple since I just had one of these decks and couldn't figure out why I hated this shape so I set it on top of decks I like and lined up the bolt holes. The 8.25 shape, even compared to 2 other DLX shapes I have at home in the bin, kicks up sooner after the bolts on the nose. Ben calls this "fingers of flat" cuz he measures with his fingers. You can visually see it rise up sooner. One of my hobbies is furniture building so I used a contour gauge to compare as well and it paints the same picture. This is a III stamped Real 8.25. Same case for the tail although it is not as egregious.

This is part of what Ben was talking about with the Easy Rider shapes. The kick angles themselves are the same, but the flat before is greater.

The person I was responding to is on a Quasi. I saw one in the shop last week and it has a decent amount of flat after the bolts. I was specifically looking for this with decks since Ben's video came out and noticed quite a few PS shapes and DSM shapes have this. Interestingly enough Ben was on a lot of PS decks and made a video about the large amount of flat on DSM decks. So, the person asking why they don't like the DLX might not like it for the same reason I don't- the lack of flat after the bolts.

All I ride is the 8.25.  I’ve got three new ones sitting in my closet. Every single one I’ve ever owned has absolutely had substantive fingers of flat. My comment was more at disbelief that any DLX deck had zero fingers. That said, I have absolutely seen a standard DLX graphic (usually the eagles or the ovals) occasionally printed on a deck that was absolutely NOT their standard shape for that deck/graphic color (e.g. a blue oval with an abnormal 14.38 wb, etc.). Maybe you somehow got one of those?

[rawbertson.]

What wheels would you set up for this setup
9.125” franky egg
Ace af1 60
I have Indy risers I am going to put on as well so I’m thinking a big wheel at least 56mm

[Mbrimson88]

Can someone smarter than me please tell me as soon as I switched from a Quasi PS Stix 8.25x14.25 to a DLX BBS 8.25x 14.38 I’ve lost any kind of stable pop. I’ve tried this deck with a set of Aces, Indy’s, and even an old pair of Thunder hollows and everything just feels off.. If it’s wheelbase, I’d be kind of shocked because I like a 14.25 to 14.38 but of course I could be wrong.. Kicks? Steepness? That shovel shape ??

The different woodshops with different concave and board feel have the most to play in things here.

PS Stix is a flat face on the kicks, BBS a spoon concave on the kicks, first before anything else, then there is the angle of kicks, then as said fingers of flat - the distance from bolts to where the kick starts to come up, so any of those things can make two of what could be very similar boards in dimensions feel totally different when someone skates them.

* Note:  fingers of flat are harder to gauge on BBS because the spoon shaped kick might seem to start earlier on the board but the kicks are then longer and more angled than some other boards that have flat and then a defined start to the kick and straight up from there.

As for Hockey, that is also BBS and usually very steep, or steeper than most, so that might have made the issue even worse, if you were more used to a lesser angle on the PS Stix kicks, or tail mainly as they often do have.

Measuring the angle could give you some answers, eg PS Stix could be 21 or 22, the BBS board could be 23 which might seem like a very small difference, but it makes everything go weird for me when I have even one degree difference between boards.

If you still had the old board, put it on top of the new one that is set up and see what difference, if any, there is in the tail area, as that would be where things are going funny.


Some people might take a few sessions to adapt to a new board, others less, some longer, or not at all, but yes it can definitely be a thing that will mean you have a good skate, or a very unhappy time on said board.

That's all I got for now on it, but from checking and standing on PS Stix and BBS boards I have, there is a significant difference in general.

[europa1991]

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Can someone smarter than me please tell me as soon as I switched from a Quasi PS Stix 8.25x14.25 to a DLX BBS 8.25x 14.38 I’ve lost any kind of stable pop. I’ve tried this deck with a set of Aces, Indy’s, and even an old pair of Thunder hollows and everything just feels off.. If it’s wheelbase, I’d be kind of shocked because I like a 14.25 to 14.38 but of course I could be wrong.. Kicks? Steepness? That shovel shape ??

[close]

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The different woodshops with different concave and board feel have the most to play in things here.

PS Stix is a flat face on the kicks, BBS a spoon concave on the kicks, first before anything else, then there is the angle of kicks, then as said fingers of flat - the distance from bolts to where the kick starts to come up, so any of those things can make two of what could be very similar boards in dimensions feel totally different when someone skates them.

* Note:  fingers of flat are harder to gauge on BBS because the spoon shaped kick might seem to start earlier on the board but the kicks are then longer and more angled than some other boards that have flat and then a defined start to the kick and straight up from there.

As for Hockey, that is also BBS and usually very steep, or steeper than most, so that might have made the issue even worse, if you were more used to a lesser angle on the PS Stix kicks, or tail mainly as they often do have.

Measuring the angle could give you some answers, eg PS Stix could be 21 or 22, the BBS board could be 23 which might seem like a very small difference, but it makes everything go weird for me when I have even one degree difference between boards.

If you still had the old board, put it on top of the new one that is set up and see what difference, if any, there is in the tail area, as that would be where things are going funny.


Some people might take a few sessions to adapt to a new board, others less, some longer, or not at all, but yes it can definitely be a thing that will mean you have a good skate, or a very unhappy time on said board.

That's all I got for now on it, but from checking and standing on PS Stix and BBS boards I have, there is a significant difference in general.

Thank you for breaking this down for me. I put three shapes next to each other (Quasi proto 8.25, a Hardbody 8.25 both PS and the DLX BBS) and definitely noticed the difference between the two wolf shops.. even with the Hardbody being a traditional popsicle it had more in common with the Quasi even with the shove nose and taper. I feel like kind of a moron for pretty much wasting money on a deck I had to impromptu buy last minute but whatever at least I know now.

[Boog]

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Can someone smarter than me please tell me as soon as I switched from a Quasi PS Stix 8.25x14.25 to a DLX BBS 8.25x 14.38 I’ve lost any kind of stable pop. I’ve tried this deck with a set of Aces, Indy’s, and even an old pair of Thunder hollows and everything just feels off.. If it’s wheelbase, I’d be kind of shocked because I like a 14.25 to 14.38 but of course I could be wrong.. Kicks? Steepness? That shovel shape ??

[close]

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The different woodshops with different concave and board feel have the most to play in things here.

PS Stix is a flat face on the kicks, BBS a spoon concave on the kicks, first before anything else, then there is the angle of kicks, then as said fingers of flat - the distance from bolts to where the kick starts to come up, so any of those things can make two of what could be very similar boards in dimensions feel totally different when someone skates them.

* Note:  fingers of flat are harder to gauge on BBS because the spoon shaped kick might seem to start earlier on the board but the kicks are then longer and more angled than some other boards that have flat and then a defined start to the kick and straight up from there.

As for Hockey, that is also BBS and usually very steep, or steeper than most, so that might have made the issue even worse, if you were more used to a lesser angle on the PS Stix kicks, or tail mainly as they often do have.

Measuring the angle could give you some answers, eg PS Stix could be 21 or 22, the BBS board could be 23 which might seem like a very small difference, but it makes everything go weird for me when I have even one degree difference between boards.

If you still had the old board, put it on top of the new one that is set up and see what difference, if any, there is in the tail area, as that would be where things are going funny.


Some people might take a few sessions to adapt to a new board, others less, some longer, or not at all, but yes it can definitely be a thing that will mean you have a good skate, or a very unhappy time on said board.

That's all I got for now on it, but from checking and standing on PS Stix and BBS boards I have, there is a significant difference in general.

[close]

Thank you for breaking this down for me. I put three shapes next to each other (Quasi proto 8.25, a Hardbody 8.25 both PS and the DLX BBS) and definitely noticed the difference between the two wolf shops.. even with the Hardbody being a traditional popsicle it had more in common with the Quasi even with the shove nose and taper. I feel like kind of a moron for pretty much wasting money on a deck I had to impromptu buy last minute but whatever at least I know now.

It's alright. We all buy things on a whim and end up regretting it. I'll bet you will get used to it and might even end up liking it. Or you'll hate it and never buy dlx or bbs again lol

[Mbrimson88]

Thank you for breaking this down for me. I put three shapes next to each other (Quasi proto 8.25, a Hardbody 8.25 both PS and the DLX BBS) and definitely noticed the difference between the two wolf shops.. even with the Hardbody being a traditional popsicle it had more in common with the Quasi even with the shove nose and taper. I feel like kind of a moron for pretty much wasting money on a deck I had to impromptu buy last minute but whatever at least I know now.

It's alright. We all buy things on a whim and end up regretting it. I'll bet you will get used to it and might even end up liking it. Or you'll hate it and never buy dlx or bbs again lol

I see something like this as an opportunity, not just because I prefer BBS over PS Stix or other woodshops, but now you have the board, you can put it aside, either to keep just as a spare, sell it or get rid of it any other which way you can, or try to skate it if you have no other options / can't afford a new one right now.

For some people, putting their back foot not on the tip of the tail but further down towards the pocket of the tail can actually help a whole lot with popping and then as they get more used to it, move the foot back more to a normal position as you grow used to the concave.

For others, just rolling around and really getting a feel for it will help a whole lot, even if it might seem like you are wasting a few sessions, it is the best way to really get used to a board.  It has definitely helped for me, when I have ended up with a board that is steeper than the last few and I wonder what is going on with it.

If you are going to end up down the OCD rabbit hole, why not make a party of it and work out exactly what and why it is not working for you, so you will have a much better list of do and don't options for future boards.


That could all be a "smile and nod" type of thing, or "laugh and shake your head" but any which way, it is up to you how ever you proceed now.  I can't talk because I put so much into skateboarding and figuring out every single detail of some things, whereas others I am totally a bull in a china shop with how I skate or deal with things NOT to my liking with some setups, so I will leave it up to you.

Sometimes with a little time, you can work something out so you don't feel like you just wasted money on something that will not work for you, but again, this is what this thread is for - the madness is real!

[diplodocus]

Question for the fellow gear madness fools on here. How do I pop faster?

Obviously nothing beats proper technique, but how do I increase the pop speed? I often am jumping before my board is popped. I guess ghost pop? After some pretty serious injuries the strength just isn't there anymore. From my understanding, the only way to decrease the time it takes for your tail to hit the ground are smaller wheels, lower trucks, longer tail, shorter wheelbase? Am i missing anything

[rocklobster]

Question for the fellow gear madness fools on here. How do I pop faster?

Obviously nothing beats proper technique, but how do I increase the pop speed? I often am jumping before my board is popped. I guess ghost pop? After some pretty serious injuries the strength just isn't there anymore. From my understanding, the only way to decrease the time it takes for your tail to hit the ground are smaller wheels, lower trucks, longer tail, shorter wheelbase? Am i missing anything

I'm facing the same problem and have been tinkering with gear, giving little success. Are you stomping hard of on you board to get it airborne? I've been trying to correct that by conditioning myself to pop lighter and snappier, instead of dragging up more forward. Just getting smaller ollies that are low and levelled to correct my technique.

SkateIQ on Insta had a good post / reel recently, demonstrating that you don't have to pop hard to get height. Light and snappy works better for control and height.

[diplodocus]

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Question for the fellow gear madness fools on here. How do I pop faster?

Obviously nothing beats proper technique, but how do I increase the pop speed? I often am jumping before my board is popped. I guess ghost pop? After some pretty serious injuries the strength just isn't there anymore. From my understanding, the only way to decrease the time it takes for your tail to hit the ground are smaller wheels, lower trucks, longer tail, shorter wheelbase? Am i missing anything

[close]

I'm facing the same problem and have been tinkering with gear, giving little success. Are you stomping hard of on you board to get it airborne? I've been trying to correct that by conditioning myself to pop lighter and snappier, instead of dragging up more forward. Just getting smaller ollies that are low and levelled to correct my technique.

SkateIQ on Insta had a good post / reel recently, demonstrating that you don't have to pop hard to get height. Light and snappy works better for control and height.

Gotcha ill have to check that out. Good tip doing smaller ollies. Gonna try that tomorrow

[j....soy.....]

Pop faster in the gear madness thread?  You guys think technique is the answer? 

Thunders…..mellow board….small wheels?  In that order….

[mynameisnotjeff]

Pop faster in the gear madness thread?  You guys think technique is the answer? 

Thunders…..mellow board….small wheels?  In that order….

Ollie from the pocket!


Now to share some of my madness.
I think Milton skates 8.6 or 8.8. Not sure but I’m tempted to skate something that wide. But I also wan to try an 8.475.

[oak leaf]

having truck midlife crisis

basically ive skated only ventures since i was a kid. when i was younger it was the sc ventures and as an adult the dlx ones feel familiar.

but im aging, and the older i get the more appealing bowl skating looks. ive done so little transition skating, mostly just mini pipe and small quarters. part of the reason I haven’t switched off ventures is because i dont wanna waste precious time relearning timing i already know. But now that im fucking around in the bowl, i cant help but notice im the only one AWAKE.

so thats why i need support. relearning flip tricks on a new truck sounds awful, if i learn bowl shit on the ventures will it be horrible to transition to a more carvy truck in future?

[diplodocus]

Pop faster in the gear madness thread?  You guys think technique is the answer? 

Thunders…..mellow board….small wheels?  In that order….

Hahaha. Right. I found my people. It's not me, it is the gear! Obviously.

[Ok]

having truck midlife crisis

basically ive skated only ventures since i was a kid. when i was younger it was the sc ventures and as an adult the dlx ones feel familiar.

but im aging, and the older i get the more appealing bowl skating looks. ive done so little transition skating, mostly just mini pipe and small quarters. part of the reason I haven’t switched off ventures is because i dont wanna waste precious time relearning timing i already know. But now that im fucking around in the bowl, i cant help but notice im the only one AWAKE.

so thats why i need support. relearning flip tricks on a new truck sounds awful, if i learn bowl shit on the ventures will it be horrible to transition to a more carvy truck in future?

ventures might not be best for the bowl, try the loose trucks kit (i can’t skate with em, too loose).

i can’t skate bowl for anything, and there are a few locals that have the super carvy vibes. but they are riding rattle loose indy’s or ace, often with rails, fuckin && boards. no thank you.

[rikki]

having truck midlife crisis

basically ive skated only ventures since i was a kid. when i was younger it was the sc ventures and as an adult the dlx ones feel familiar.

but im aging, and the older i get the more appealing bowl skating looks. ive done so little transition skating, mostly just mini pipe and small quarters. part of the reason I haven’t switched off ventures is because i dont wanna waste precious time relearning timing i already know. But now that im fucking around in the bowl, i cant help but notice im the only one AWAKE.

so thats why i need support. relearning flip tricks on a new truck sounds awful, if i learn bowl shit on the ventures will it be horrible to transition to a more carvy truck in future?

Stick with Ventures my man. It'll be horrible transitioning to any other truck anyway, don't bother if you don't have to. You can do anything with Ventures.

My ollie goes down the toilet everytime I take out my "bowl setup" (a bit wider board + Indys) and I hate that feeling. I want to be able to skate both street and tranny with the same setup. If it's a bigger bowl and bowl only sesh, then I'll fool around with Indys, but that's kinda rare.

[oak leaf]

ventures might not be best for the bowl, try the loose trucks kit (i can’t skate with em, too loose).

i can’t skate bowl for anything, and there are a few locals that have the super carvy vibes. but they are riding rattle loose indy’s or ace, often with rails, fuckin && boards. no thank you.

Stick with Ventures my man. It'll be horrible transitioning to any other truck anyway, don't bother if you don't have to. You can do anything with Ventures.

My ollie goes down the toilet everytime I take out my "bowl setup" (a bit wider board + Indys) and I hate that feeling. I want to be able to skate both street and tranny with the same setup. If it's a bigger bowl and bowl only sesh, then I'll fool around with Indys, but that's kinda rare.

thanks yall. in a way i knew this was the answer but it's good to hear it lol.

[Xen]

Can you or someone better than you skate bowls with Ventures? Sure can.

Do a lot of people? Nope. And there's a reason for that.

There is no harm is setting up a wide bowl board, wider carvy trucks (that are know to be the choice of bowl rippers), longer wheel base and bigger wheels to better skate that terrain.

[rikki]

There is no harm is setting up a wide bowl board, wider carvy trucks (that are know to be the choice of bowl rippers), longer wheel base and bigger wheels to better skate that terrain.

This is true. But this is the road to multiple setups, which is ok too. But if a lifetime Venture rider wants to rip both street and trannies with one setup, it's gonna be hell trying to do everything with any other truck.

The two setups solution:

1. Stay AWAKE on the streets, ledges, curbs, flatground.
2. Go to sleep with Indys or Aces in bowls and trannies.


OR

Fuck that madness shit, stay AWAKE all around, and proceed to rip trannies on Ventures, which is entirely possible (but not as easy).

[moonordie]

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There is no harm is setting up a wide bowl board, wider carvy trucks (that are know to be the choice of bowl rippers), longer wheel base and bigger wheels to better skate that terrain.

[close]

This is true. But this is the road to multiple setups, which is ok too. But if a lifetime Venture rider wants to rip both street and trannies with one setup, it's gonna be hell trying to do everything with any other truck.

The two setups solution:

1. Stay AWAKE on the streets, ledges, curbs, flatground.
2. Go to sleep with Indys or Aces in bowls and trannies.


OR

Fuck that madness shit, stay AWAKE all around, and proceed to rip trannies on Ventures, which is entirely possible (but not as easy).

I'd go for another setup.

[Sedition]

Random Madness from this week:

I have small DLX 8.25 stock pile. Was time for a new deck. I prefer IV stamped, but can do III, too. Set-up a new one, which was a III. Once set-up, it felt like a "I" stamp. Hated it. Did an @Mbrimson88 "parking-job" for 15 min on each kick. At first I was like, "Oh no! too flat!" But then it bent back a bit, and felt like a perfect "IV." Now I have the happy.

But...I'm being indecisive about 144s/149s on the 8.25 right now. Thought I buried that one a long time ago. Guess not.

[CarcassToss]

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There is no harm is setting up a wide bowl board, wider carvy trucks (that are know to be the choice of bowl rippers), longer wheel base and bigger wheels to better skate that terrain.

[close]

This is true. But this is the road to multiple setups, which is ok too. But if a lifetime Venture rider wants to rip both street and trannies with one setup, it's gonna be hell trying to do everything with any other truck.

The two setups solution:

1. Stay AWAKE on the streets, ledges, curbs, flatground.
2. Go to sleep with Indys or Aces in bowls and trannies.


OR

Fuck that madness shit, stay AWAKE all around, and proceed to rip trannies on Ventures, which is entirely possible (but not as easy).

[close]

I'd go for another setup.

I've got a normal setup on 5.6s, and for transition/parks have a DLX 8.75 on 5.8. I'm not Ronnie Sandoval, but I can comfortably skate most parks to the coping whereas the bowl troll paddy daddies with their loose trucks saves lives setups can't.

[Mbrimson88]

Random Madness from this week:

I have small DLX 8.25 stock pile. Was time for a new deck. I prefer IV stamped, but can do III, too. Set-up a new one, which was a III. Once set-up, it felt like a "I" stamp. Hated it. Did an @Mbrimson88 "parking-job" for 15 min on each kick. At first I was like, "Oh no! too flat!" But then it bent back a bit, and felt like a perfect "IV." Now I have the happy.

But...I'm being indecisive about 144s/149s on the 8.25 right now. Thought I buried that one a long time ago. Guess not.

Yeah it is a fine line sometimes, but I always leave the board for a few days after parking on it, just to let it come back to where it will stay.


Are you into multiple washers on the inside of each wheel or depending on where the wheels sit, sometimes more or less?

I know a few people who have put three on the inside of 144s and then none or one thin one on 149s on those boards, just to have a closer feeling, but in general as you used to do 144s, that is how I think a lot of people run them now, compared to back in the day before 144s came out, 139s sat too far in, 149s with minimal washers or thinner wheels sat fairly well on the DLX 8.25 decks.

[Sedition]

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Random Madness from this week:

I have small DLX 8.25 stock pile. Was time for a new deck. I prefer IV stamped, but can do III, too. Set-up a new one, which was a III. Once set-up, it felt like a "I" stamp. Hated it. Did an @Mbrimson88 "parking-job" for 15 min on each kick. At first I was like, "Oh no! too flat!" But then it bent back a bit, and felt like a perfect "IV." Now I have the happy.

But...I'm being indecisive about 144s/149s on the 8.25 right now. Thought I buried that one a long time ago. Guess not.

[close]

Yeah it is a fine line sometimes, but I always leave the board for a few days after parking on it, just to let it come back to where it will stay.


Are you into multiple washers on the inside of each wheel or depending on where the wheels sit, sometimes more or less?

I know a few people who have put three on the inside of 144s and then none or one thin one on 149s on those boards, just to have a closer feeling, but in general as you used to do 144s, that is how I think a lot of people run them now, compared to back in the day before 144s came out, 139s sat too far in, 149s with minimal washers or thinner wheels sat fairly well on the DLX 8.25 decks.

^ The last time I went through the 149/144 madness (year or so ago), I ended up with 144s and a few inside washers. A bit after that, I was just suddenly like, "This is utterly insane. A mm is not going to make any real difference*." And I went to standard 1 inside, 1 outside. Recently, I had been riding that 8.75/14.5 Label for a bit, with 159s. And I liked how stable it felt. So, i decided to try 149s on the 8.25 to see if that just might make things "feel better" (under no illusion it's really going to make me skate better/worse in any substantive, meaningful way). It oddly gave me a bit more mental confidence with pivot to fakies, because it felt like more of the truck already "inside" the transition (I do the just lock-the-heel-wheel type of pivot to fakies). The turn on 149s feels real nice, too. But I don't like the axle nut sticking out. Put on 144s back on after a bit, and board just felt a little less stable, with less of a good feeling turn, but also more nimble. Maybe I should just abandon "either/or" (hey Kierkegaard) concepts and just ride whatever the mood dictates, when it dictates, as to trying to find a singular answer.   

*Yet, don't you dare ask me to ride a wheel that is just 1mm off from my preferred size! The irony!

[Gleefull508]

ran out of 8.25 and only had 8.38 boards left but I skate ACE 44.

Was scared I was gonna get some madness thinking my trucks were too small and hate it but honestly, I can't tell the difference. If anything I like it more

Madness avoided

[rocklobster]

ran out of 8.25 and only had 8.38 boards left but I skate ACE 44.

Was scared I was gonna get some madness thinking my trucks were too small and hate it but honestly, I can't tell the difference. If anything I like it more

Madness avoided for today

[Mbrimson88]

^ The last time I went through the 149/144 madness (year or so ago), I ended up with 144s and a few inside washers. A bit after that, I was just suddenly like, "This is utterly insane. A mm is not going to make any real difference*." And I went to standard 1 inside, 1 outside. Recently, I had been riding that 8.75/14.5 Label for a bit, with 159s. And I liked how stable it felt. So, i decided to try 149s on the 8.25 to see if that just might make things "feel better" (under no illusion it's really going to make me skate better/worse in any substantive, meaningful way). It oddly gave me a bit more mental confidence with pivot to fakies, because it felt like more of the truck already "inside" the transition (I do the just lock-the-heel-wheel type of pivot to fakies). The turn on 149s feels real nice, too. But I don't like the axle nut sticking out. Put on 144s back on after a bit, and board just felt a little less stable, with less of a good feeling turn, but also more nimble. Maybe I should just abandon "either/or" (hey Kierkegaard) concepts and just ride whatever the mood dictates, when it dictates, as to trying to find a singular answer.   

*Yet, don't you dare ask me to ride a wheel that is just 1mm off from my preferred size! The irony!

Oh yeah, that is very familiar - used to ride 144s but now they feel too tippy on any board and the smallest I will go is 149s.

A couple of additions to the madness for you - just the one washer on the inside of 149s and no washer on the outside to see if the nuts sit in far enough.  Try that for a bit, not looking at the remaining axle if you can help it, but if that works, then even grind off the end couple of threads of the axles to bring everything in a bit more, so they will end up sort of like 146 hangers, the way the old Stage 8 or so were, which fit a bit better.  Just don't take too much off.

People have done it unintentionally and just smashed the ends of their axles in the past, so when I am reconditioning used parts, especially hangers, one washer is all that will fit and the truck actually works really well as an in between size.


Re pivot to fakie (and quite a few other tricks where the little extra truck width really helps) I do enjoy a touch more hanger and yes, that spot is the one, wheel just up over and not half a truck with it.

The only down side is some people say the truck is not nimble enough and the 149 sits too wide for some of their flat bar grind type tricks, but I enjoy letting other people with their own trucks have all the flat bar grinding attention and really only have board contact nowdays with flatbars anyway for my own happiness.  Works better for me and less likely to end up broken off.


At least you always have some 144 hangers you can swap in if needed.

[CarcassToss]

Maybe I'm a psycho, but I always feel that it's less about overall truck width and more about deck to truck ratio. I've got 5.8's on an 8.75 and it feels similar to my 5.6's on 8.38. I rock 3 washers inside on both, 1 out, to get the axle nuts flush and it effectively makes the centerline of the wheel an 8.38/8.62 truck. Both feel about the same stability, tip, and scoop. When I first got the 8.75 I was like fuckit I don't have 5.8's yet I'll ride my normal trucks and that was insanely squirrely.

[Xen]

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^ The last time I went through the 149/144 madness (year or so ago), I ended up with 144s and a few inside washers. A bit after that, I was just suddenly like, "This is utterly insane. A mm is not going to make any real difference*." And I went to standard 1 inside, 1 outside. Recently, I had been riding that 8.75/14.5 Label for a bit, with 159s. And I liked how stable it felt. So, i decided to try 149s on the 8.25 to see if that just might make things "feel better" (under no illusion it's really going to make me skate better/worse in any substantive, meaningful way). It oddly gave me a bit more mental confidence with pivot to fakies, because it felt like more of the truck already "inside" the transition (I do the just lock-the-heel-wheel type of pivot to fakies). The turn on 149s feels real nice, too. But I don't like the axle nut sticking out. Put on 144s back on after a bit, and board just felt a little less stable, with less of a good feeling turn, but also more nimble. Maybe I should just abandon "either/or" (hey Kierkegaard) concepts and just ride whatever the mood dictates, when it dictates, as to trying to find a singular answer.   

*Yet, don't you dare ask me to ride a wheel that is just 1mm off from my preferred size! The irony!

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Oh yeah, that is very familiar - used to ride 144s but now they feel too tippy on any board and the smallest I will go is 149s.

A couple of additions to the madness for you - just the one washer on the inside of 149s and no washer on the outside to see if the nuts sit in far enough.  Try that for a bit, not looking at the remaining axle if you can help it, but if that works, then even grind off the end couple of threads of the axles to bring everything in a bit more, so they will end up sort of like 146 hangers, the way the old Stage 8 or so were, which fit a bit better.  Just don't take too much off.

People have done it unintentionally and just smashed the ends of their axles in the past, so when I am reconditioning used parts, especially hangers, one washer is all that will fit and the truck actually works really well as an in between size.


Re pivot to fakie (and quite a few other tricks where the little extra truck width really helps) I do enjoy a touch more hanger and yes, that spot is the one, wheel just up over and not half a truck with it.

The only down side is some people say the truck is not nimble enough and the 149 sits too wide for some of their flat bar grind type tricks, but I enjoy letting other people with their own trucks have all the flat bar grinding attention and really only have board contact nowdays with flatbars anyway for my own happiness.  Works better for me and less likely to end up broken off.


At least you always have some 144 hangers you can swap in if needed.

All other madness aside, I struggle with this one a lot (Moreso when riding spit classics or other wide wheels that eat up hanger room).

149s feel more stable but are heavier, bit more grind room vs the slightly lighter yet tippy feeling of 144/148s.....that 1/4 you know...1/8" on either side WHOAH BOY WATCH OUT THEM TRE FLIPS GONNA SPIN FASTER....but not really.

I can't understand the mental block I have with them, drives me crazy sometimes. If  there were more than 3 8.3 truck options that were lighter/better  grind clearance, I'd run those.

[CarcassToss]

The thing that led me to Ace years back was the 44 being 8.38.