questions that don't deserve their own thread

[goodatmeth]

Anybody knows if the oval team logos have the same shape as the full se‘s?
Asking cause I saw an old real insta post and they said :
„
Pressed on scaled molds built off real full size decks.“

I‘m confused. Are they just as full as full se‘s?

I think you're confusing it with the new scaled down real (oval) decks. There are 2 new small shapes with 12 or 13" wheelbases I think. For very small people and kids.

[SlapMcKracken]

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Anybody knows if the oval team logos have the same shape as the full se‘s?
Asking cause I saw an old real insta post and they said :
„
Pressed on scaled molds built off real full size decks.“

I‘m confused. Are they just as full as full se‘s?

[close]

I think you're confusing it with the new scaled down real (oval) decks. There are 2 new small shapes with 12 or 13" wheelbases I think. For very small people and kids.

Oh now it makes sense!

But would be so good if real would make average logo boards full se.

[LebowskisRug]

Then there would be no incentive to buy the pro shapes, which cost more.

[Mbrimson88]

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Anybody knows if the oval team logos have the same shape as the full se‘s?
Asking cause I saw an old real insta post and they said :
„
Pressed on scaled molds built off real full size decks.“

I‘m confused. Are they just as full as full se‘s?

[close]

I think you're confusing it with the new scaled down real (oval) decks. There are 2 new small shapes with 12 or 13" wheelbases I think. For very small people and kids.

[close]

Oh now it makes sense!

But would be so good if real would make average logo boards full se.

Then there would be no incentive to buy the pro shapes, which cost more.

I thought that they are all the same RRP, be it the team or the pro boards in R1, Full SE construction, no matter what the shape, with the slick surfaced boards being a bit more and the oversized boards also being a bit more, that is anything that is up in the bigger or shaped 9+ sizes from DLX. 

The only ones that are different are the Pricepoint boards, which are lower RRP but also lower quality.


As you did say though, being the Full SE which is seen to be a more unique board, they don't do those in team graphics and keep them for the more specific pro boards, in the same way the new shorter shapes are very specific graphics so they keep them separate to the other normal team boards.

Overall quite a smart way to do things.

[LebowskisRug]

The oval shapes are cheaper in the US at least at the locals I go to one of which being DLX.

[Mbrimson88]

The oval shapes are cheaper in the US at least at the locals I go to one of which being DLX.

So is this about right (from a few shops I checked):

Pricepoints around US $45

Team boards around $60

Normal other boards, both R1 and Full shapes anywhere from $61 to $66 for most (not including sale boards, which were as low as $50 for any and all pro boards)

Bigger boards / specials $66 to $69


I had seen what is curious prices from some sellers / shops, but just put it down to the current cost, eg when things went up here, everything went up from maybe AU$100 to $110 or AU$130 to $140 and some boards ended up at $149.99 for the bigger sizes or the slicks, which reminded me of early to mid 2000s prices.

That is still fairly normal overall, but there didn't seem like such small differences, in either the wholesale costs or the RRP they put on things.

[LebowskisRug]

Yah the Ovals are sold as price points. That’s why I said if they put the Full SE on there there wouldn’t be an incentive to buy a more expensive deck as only thr $60-65 team and pro models have it.

[Mbrimson88]

So from looking them up, the Real Oval logo I was referring to were in the team deck cagegory, not the pricepoints, which is a whole different level of quality and look and even feel of board, so for people in AU it is about $30 difference, but for US people, it is more an average of about $15 difference.

Team (including Eagles and Ovals) decks which have the same setup and quality as all the other pro boards (two top stained and one bottom) are around $60

Pricepoint (all raw / natural wood) with generic graphics, all around $45


Any other pro boards in any shape or construction (same wood as Team decks) all around $61 to $66



I just thought that might help some people, as there is a distinct difference, as said, between team and pricepoint boards, but no difference between team and pro boards.

[Mbrimson88]

How long can a deck sit for until it starts to warp? Or, related to that - how can you avoid warping? Is warping inevitable?

I got a sale deck from a shop for $40, gripped it, then noticed it’s pretty warped. Do shops return decks to the board company? They’re small so I don’t to make a thing over it if it’s a hassle

Although there has been a significant amount of info from people like Paul Schmitt - PS Stix owner and others, it seems there is no definite answer to this, as some boards have just warped beyond my ability to weight them down and return them to semi straight, but almost any other normal board that is either still in shrink or at least stored out of direct sunlight and away from an excess of hot or cold conditions should still maintain the initial form.

Even from having a number of boards up around a hot metal walled shed, almost none of them have warped, which is surprising, as I was thinking that many of them would have had issues with the heat and being hung vertically.

Normally any other board that is still to be skated will hold up just fine being stored flat, either in boxes of about the same concave or in stacks where the longest board is on the bottom, so they are all resting on their middles, not the tips of the ends of smaller boards, if that makes sense.


I have boards I bought new that are maybe almost twenty years old that I know of, as well as other boards I picked up second hand from way earlier than that, that have no issues at all and still skate fine.

On the other side, one of the guys I know always leaves his boards in the car and they always warped quite quickly, no matter how old or what brand of wood.  If you are going to leave boards in a car, they are best in a board box, or at the very least, wrapped in something to prevent them getting too hot and warping.


On the fixing them side of things, sometimes it is best to weight them down under something, even with offset flex, which I have had fairly good success at warping boards back to flat, or at least to the point where I can ride them and not know they were warped from the feel of it.

Having a stack of old boards or even a couple of old boards to sit on top and then bricks or something else sitting on that and left for a week in warmer weather or longer in colder weather usually makes a difference to boards I have had.  I just did one not too long ago and was going to put up something on it soon enough, then saw these questions, so that is good timing.

I took a while to get this up, but it is a rainy day so I am getting a few things like this done, that I didn't do when it was nicer weather outside.


Fixing warped decks:

[Ronnie Rodriguez]

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Brands claim it’s to “preserve the pop feel” since they’re decently lighter. I find this to be bullshit as I’ve skated every cast/forged variant and they don’t have the same pop feel.

It’s likely because forging usually allows for a harder alloy and can be done more exacting in most cases than cast and they are too lazy to just make them all the same. People mostly buy forged for the weight savings too so they’re not really trying to add material to get them the same height.

[close]

Pushing the WB out is what's done to attempt to "preserve" or compensate for the pop feel. The lower height (or more specifically, the thinner baseplate) is to lower the weight.

[close]

Halfway correct- to get the tail to hit the ground at the same time the plate has to be lower if it is moved back. Just moving back would raise the deck angle only and make pop heavier.

I think you misunderstood. The poster asked:

Why are forged baseplates always lower than cast baseplates?

You said it was to preserve pop feel, but that's just not true. Forged baseplates are lower than cast to save weight. Forging doesn't result in any significant weight savings, it just allows the baseplate to maintain strength while being thinner and resulting in a lower height. It has nothing to do with preserving pop feel, as lowering a lighter truck is going make it feel even lighter.

To compensate for the lower hight (again, lower in the interest of less metal/physical weight), the axle gets pushed out to add heft to the pop. I agree that it doesn't quite do the trick, but that is what they're going for.

If they made forged plates the same height as cast, there wouldn't be any real weight savings AND they would be gross to a huge market share (as forged plates tend to be).

[Easy Slider]

What weight is a standard skateboard, plus/minus?

[braksabbath]

What weight is a standard skateboard, plus/minus?

My 8.5/Indy 149/52mm conical full setup is 93oz, friend's 8.0/Indy 139/53mm radials is 86oz. I thought my madness was cured but riding the 8.0 makes me want to size back down. I don't know where that 6oz is coming from when it's really just .125" extra wood and steel on either side of the deck and axles.

[Easy Slider]

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What weight is a standard skateboard, plus/minus?

[close]

My 8.5/Indy 149/52mm conical full setup is 93oz, friend's 8.0/Indy 139/53mm radials is 86oz. I thought my madness was cured but riding the 8.0 makes me want to size back down. I don't know where that 6oz is coming from when it's really just .125" extra wood and steel on either side of the deck and axles.

Cheers, and interesting indeed.

[Mean salto]

Anyone have/ had those converse fast breaks? Wanna give a mini review? Also would love a cut in half pic like weartested if some one has a dead pair and too much time on their hands (not actually expecting this)

[BartHarleyJarvis]

What weight is a standard skateboard, plus/minus?

I have 4 set ups, all built differently, and they're all between 83-93oz. So based on this and the other pals response ~5.5 pounds is maybe a good average?

[Madam, I'm Adam]

Anyone have/ had those converse fast breaks? Wanna give a mini review? Also would love a cut in half pic like weartested if some one has a dead pair and too much time on their hands (not actually expecting this)

They're not bad. They're gorgeous shoes on foot, I had a pair of the white/emerald/gum. The flick is great, but the issue is that I ordered them online and I wish I had tried them on in a shop beforehand since the sizing was off. As a result I didn't skate them too much. Cons sizing seems to be infamously off-kilter, so I'd try them on to make sure your foot is snug enough.

[beandemon]

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Anyone have/ had those converse fast breaks? Wanna give a mini review? Also would love a cut in half pic like weartested if some one has a dead pair and too much time on their hands (not actually expecting this)

[close]

They're not bad. They're gorgeous shoes on foot, I had a pair of the white/emerald/gum. The flick is great, but the issue is that I ordered them online and I wish I had tried them on in a shop beforehand since the sizing was off. As a result I didn't skate them too much. Cons sizing seems to be infamously off-kilter, so I'd try them on to make sure your foot is snug enough.

I had 2 pairs and really liked them. First pair were all leather, super faint pink, non-skate version that took a while to break in but lasted very well. I can’t remember what insole they had. Second pair was skate version, gum sole, some canvas. Quicker break in, came with a cons insole I really liked. Can’t speak to flick - not my thing. My takeaway: Soles last pretty well, don’t bag out, skate insole (lunarlon?) was good, TTS

[Murge]

Does ventures or steep kicks make you feel more  cramped?

I have been skating and 8.8 creature stumps with 149  thunders and conical regs. Loving it. Kick flips are consistent and it feels good. But madness got me and I decided I needed a more tech friendly set up. So I set up 5.6 cast ventures with some old  53 (51mm now) spit classics on an almost deck with steep kicks mellow concave. And I figured this would be great. But I feel so cramped on it. And my flip tricks are less consistent and my Ollie’s are rocketed. This is due to the kicks you guys think? Like I feel like my legs are so close together.

[munchbox]

depends on how you pop
i personally dont jump with my legs that far apart
short wheelbase and ventures works perfectly for me

[Plan9Customs]

Is the sizing on Grosso mids the same as the regular Vans(non skate/pro shoes)?

[Mbrimson88]

Is the sizing on Grosso mids the same as the regular Vans(non skate/pro shoes)?

It is a bit yes and a bit no, but the Vans Shoes thread has a good amount of info from a search in that thread, such as these two posts below:

https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=110394.750

got a pair of the forest green grosso mids. first new vans in a few years..

they're super nice and fit same as my other 10.5 vans from over the years. all the skate improvements are very solid on these. feels like the quality the pro classics had from 2013-2015 or so

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Currently skating skate old skools and by far hating them with every cell of my body. Feel way too stiff and there is too much rubber on the toe area of the shoes. Maybe they will break in some day... been skating them for like 5 sessions (over 2h each).

[close]

Damn, as a Sk8-hi guy I was looking at the old skools as a secondary shoe. I noticed with the newer Vans that I have to wear thinner socks or go up a half size in the case of slip ons.

I just got a pair of the Grosso Mids, they look and feel sick but they're either a tiny bit more snug or my feet are swollen from skating yesterday 

[close]

I would be thinking they are a tiny bit more snug.

Try some old insoles in them at first if you have any, as that has helped with a lot of newer shoes that are too tight to start with, even the almost blown out old insoles will give a much better break in with those shoes than trying to just make them work.

Then when the shoe is well worn put the new insoles back in and it will feel like you have a newer pair of shoes.

[tzhangdox]

Does ventures or steep kicks make you feel more  cramped?

I have been skating and 8.8 creature stumps with 149  thunders and conical regs. Loving it. Kick flips are consistent and it feels good. But madness got me and I decided I needed a more tech friendly set up. So I set up 5.6 cast ventures with some old  53 (51mm now) spit classics on an almost deck with steep kicks mellow concave. And I figured this would be great. But I feel so cramped on it. And my flip tricks are less consistent and my Ollie’s are rocketed. This is due to the kicks you guys think? Like I feel like my legs are so close together.

Yes, but that not necessarily a bad thing. I usually skate the dlx 8.5 31.8 14.25 shape (which measures more like a 14.2) on 5.8 ventures. I'm 6ft5 so thats pretty short for me.

I definitely get less room to drag up for ollies, and my ability to skate really tall ledges and my max pop are definitely worse than on a board thats more proportionate to me. My default position on this board leaves my front foot on, or very close to the bolts. Almost always cover some of the front bolts when doing most flip tricks.

But 90% of what I skate is flatground, ledges and flatbars below knee height and I find the short board and short wheelbase very easy to maneuver and less effort to skate. Easier to get tech on. The short board and wb also makes flip tricks tweak out easier with less effort as my flicking foot comes off the end of the board much easier as its a lot closer to the nose.

[LebowskisRug]

It also depends on the flat before the kicks. I had the DLX 8.28 with 14.12 and it had fairly big kicks with very little flat. I would always feel as if I was skating on the kicks themselves and it felt like a see saw. But I’ve also skated the Chocolate G052 with a 14 WB and it has tons of flat and I didn’t have this issue at all.

[Lou Strux]

Speaking of...
Anybody else trip on the fact that some of us regularly tweak out on such minutia as +/- 1 to 2mm of wheelbase, or width, but still measure the flat between bolts and where the kick starts using the extremely precise scale of "fingers"?

[LebowskisRug]

I keep decks I like but have retired and/or just lay something over a similar shape in a shop to compare.

[thanksgiving]

Speaking of...
Anybody else trip on the fact that some of us regularly tweak out on such minutia as +/- 1 to 2mm of wheelbase, or width, but still measure the flat between bolts and where the kick starts using the extremely precise scale of "fingers"?

yeah fingers of flat is the stupidest thing ever, but also i have no better solutions. maybe take a ruler to the bottom of the deck, outer hardware holes and see where the curve starts?

[LebowskisRug]

@beandemon and @Madam, I'm Adam what was sizing like for you compared to some other example shoes?

[braksabbath]

When did 99a become the standard

[Mbrimson88]

When did 99a become the standard

I feel like only Bones took it a whole lot harder than that back when they became the biggest force in long lasting minimal flatspot skateboard wheels, but for others who have been riding Spitfires or generally more normal ranges of wheels, the 99 has always been the best go to.

A little funny now Bones has taken it back to 99 and quite a few people are going elsewhere within the last few years, so that might be more so the timeframe you are referring to that has really started to come up.

I also feel like the standard of 101+ is often not quite that, as many wheels advertised as 101 or above are more grippy and sticky than most 99 duro wheels, certainly more than the usual Spitfire F4 99 duro wheels.


The other side of it is the "A" scale only goes up to 100 so anything rated higher than that doesn't really fit on the chart anyway, hence the 84B with Bones and some others (that would be about 104a), or even the lower scales of really hard wheels that people often confuse for cruiser wheels.

[Plan9Customs]

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Is the sizing on Grosso mids the same as the regular Vans(non skate/pro shoes)?

[close]

It is a bit yes and a bit no, but the Vans Shoes thread has a good amount of info from a search in that thread, such as these two posts below:

https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=110394.750

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got a pair of the forest green grosso mids. first new vans in a few years..

they're super nice and fit same as my other 10.5 vans from over the years. all the skate improvements are very solid on these. feels like the quality the pro classics had from 2013-2015 or so

[close]

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Currently skating skate old skools and by far hating them with every cell of my body. Feel way too stiff and there is too much rubber on the toe area of the shoes. Maybe they will break in some day... been skating them for like 5 sessions (over 2h each).

[close]

Damn, as a Sk8-hi guy I was looking at the old skools as a secondary shoe. I noticed with the newer Vans that I have to wear thinner socks or go up a half size in the case of slip ons.

I just got a pair of the Grosso Mids, they look and feel sick but they're either a tiny bit more snug or my feet are swollen from skating yesterday 

[close]

I would be thinking they are a tiny bit more snug.

Try some old insoles in them at first if you have any, as that has helped with a lot of newer shoes that are too tight to start with, even the almost blown out old insoles will give a much better break in with those shoes than trying to just make them work.

Then when the shoe is well worn put the new insoles back in and it will feel like you have a newer pair of shoes.

[close]

Thanks.