questions that don't deserve their own thread

[tzhangdox]

How do you guys calculate shipping prices for what you sell on the classifieds? Got a number of boards I’d like to sell, but wondering how to accurately price shipping. Also, for people who ship boards, do you just reuse other boxes or is there a preferred size to use for shipping?

Make an account on https://goshippo.com/ Every time you need to ship something, put in your address, their address, and the weight and dimensions of the package. It'll give you a range of options, mostly USPS and UPS. You can directly buy the label from there, print it out, put it on the package and just drop it off at the post office or UPS store.

[Woodshop]

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What are the best skate shops out there for searching decks by specific widths, lengths, and wheelbases? Right now I use Skate Warehouse, Tactics and OCD Skate Shop but there has to be more/better options out there.

[close]

Southside skate shop in Houston usually lists length. Zumiez is good for top pics if you're trying to  figure out the woodshop.

Some of the best ones are actually Japanese shops. Rf skate is my favourite, you have to use Google translate but it's easy enough to navigate. They take detailed pics and actually measure every deck (in cm so it's even more accurate) and lay the deck on top of a krooked board so you can see how flat or steep it is in comparison. Hell, they even measure concave. It's heaven for mentally ill gear nerds. There's a couple other sites that take similar pics but rf has a huge selection, updates it fairly often, and leave the old ones up for a while after they sell out so you can still use it for reference.

https://r-fskate.com/shopbrand/deck/

[close]

Can't believe someone mentioned my local shop on here!

[close]

Which one? If you mean RF is your local then please, please go buy them a case of beer or bag of weed and then send me your PayPal so I can reimburse you. I've used their site to make a decision on whether or not to buy a board so many times. It's really the next best thing to physically going to a shop. I wish everyone did the pics with a reference board thing.

If it's southside i emailed them once to ask what the stack stamp on a dlx deck was and they started like questioning why I wanted to know that and then trying to tell me that it didn't matter because dlx decks weren't steep (they are) and PS decks are steeper because FA (they're not, and FA had been purely bbs for over a year at this point) and shit like that. So if they're your local go pour saltwater in the owners bearings or something.

Interesting feedback and yes I have also had some weird responses from some shops when asking about specific things, but happily most shops have been really helpful, some even asking about it (but I usually explain why I am asking in the initial email) but none have been downright stupid like that.

[jimgrude]

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What are the best skate shops out there for searching decks by specific widths, lengths, and wheelbases? Right now I use Skate Warehouse, Tactics and OCD Skate Shop but there has to be more/better options out there.

[close]

Southside skate shop in Houston usually lists length. Zumiez is good for top pics if you're trying to  figure out the woodshop.

Some of the best ones are actually Japanese shops. Rf skate is my favourite, you have to use Google translate but it's easy enough to navigate. They take detailed pics and actually measure every deck (in cm so it's even more accurate) and lay the deck on top of a krooked board so you can see how flat or steep it is in comparison. Hell, they even measure concave. It's heaven for mentally ill gear nerds. There's a couple other sites that take similar pics but rf has a huge selection, updates it fairly often, and leave the old ones up for a while after they sell out so you can still use it for reference.

https://r-fskate.com/shopbrand/deck/

[close]

Can't believe someone mentioned my local shop on here!

[close]

Given we are almost global in member base, I think it is fair to say that lots of shops would get a mention, but there are more likely to be more mentions of the really good shops, (or bad) for various reasons.

Their board information is amazing though, so it is good to give them more recognition and hopefully a few more customers as well.


What is the shop setup like to go in to as the pics look crazily cramped?



From the bottom of their pages:


This site "R-F SKATE" is
a skateboard mail order site sent out by the strange shop "Tatsumiya" which sells skateboards for about 20 years in an old stationery shop, close to Komazawa Park, one of the famous skate parks near Tokyo.

about tatsumiya

1-11-18 yakumo, meguro-ku, tokyo / 03-3723-4288

It's a trip. He runs it out of his very elderly dad's tiny stationary store. From the outside, you'd never guess that it's a skateshop. On the inside, there's pens and shit on the left, and a huge rack of decks on the right. He keeps most of the gear in the back, though. They share the register, which is usually full of pens, bearings and wheels. There's also a small bench and a TV showing skate videos, and cardboard on the floor for testing out your decks. That's about it. I'll support R-F as long as it sticks around.

Just FYI to anyone who might hit it up when coming to Tokyo, it's not actually that close to Komazawa skatepark (my local). It's a 5 minute walk from Toritsu-Daigaku station (Toyoko Line).

[iw0]

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whats the durometer for bushings that are on the Venture hollow lights?

[close]

90a

[close]

It is funny how the big three - Indy, Thunder and Venture - all now have the 90 duro bushings as their stock product, as they were quite different and mostly harder in the past.

What is also strange is even though they are all supposed to be the same, some different colours seem harder / softer.

Anyone else seem like this is the case too?

yeah i feel this and i routinely use this logic to back up my "opaque bushings better than clear bushings" argument that has 0 scientific or well thought out backing

[Madam, I'm Adam]

I'd like to focus on ollieing higher this year, since it's probably my last year to be able to develop my ollie before I get too old. I just want to ollie over things the height of my knee, no big goals here.

I usually ride boards that have or are close to 8x31.5x14 dimensions, since that fits my average height, shoe size, and weight.

So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

1) A board with roughly the same width and length, but a longer wheelbase, maybe 14.5 inches, but with mellow kicks and concave so I can avoid ghost pop
2) I'd pair this longer-wheelbase board with a high truck, like Thunder Hollow his, and possibly riser pads
3) Smaller wheels, because bigger wheels can contribute to ghost pop

This is what I'm thinking so far, if anyone has any ideas on what to suggest or improve, I'd be happy to hear them.

Also, there's a lot of talk about how light boards and trucks are gimmicks and you need some leverage to pop, but I'm kind of feeling like the lightest deck and trucks are the way to go. Can anyone convince me that I'm wrong?

[Mean salto]

- Has Nike or Adidas ever reissued an old skate model?

- For the people in the know, is it reasonable to expect that they would ever do that?

- What I'm really trying to say is: am I fool for hoping Nike brings back the Koston 1?

- Is money really the only thing that is considered when deciding who gets a pro model?

- Was the Adidas Suciu II really not profitable enough to produce throughout his SOTY year?

The bruin, blazers and gt blazers have all come gone and come back a couple times.
Suciu 2 was a few years ago, I'd guess Adidas would make a suciu 3 if they were going to do something for soty (but more likely give him just a few colours of existing shoes)

[Woodshop]

I'd like to focus on ollieing higher this year, since it's probably my last year to be able to develop my ollie before I get too old. I just want to ollie over things the height of my knee, no big goals here.

I usually ride boards that have or are close to 8x31.5x14 dimensions, since that fits my average height, shoe size, and weight.

So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

1) A board with roughly the same width and length, but a longer wheelbase, maybe 14.5 inches, but with mellow kicks and concave so I can avoid ghost pop
2) I'd pair this longer-wheelbase board with a high truck, like Thunder Hollow his, and possibly riser pads
3) Smaller wheels, because bigger wheels can contribute to ghost pop

This is what I'm thinking so far, if anyone has any ideas on what to suggest or improve, I'd be happy to hear them.

Also, there's a lot of talk about how light boards and trucks are gimmicks and you need some leverage to pop, but I'm kind of feeling like the lightest deck and trucks are the way to go. Can anyone convince me that I'm wrong?

Sounds like the average DLX 8" deck, with 14.38 wb, would be about what you are after, any number, but one with a III or IV on top if possible as they are slightly more mellow, but that would pair well with Thunders easily enough and whatever wheels you prefer.

Many other boards around 8" have shorter wheelbases, but the DLX 8" is skated and enjoyed by a lot of people, so there has to be some logic to keep that shape / dimensions.


As for how high you can ollie and age, I would say it is more muscle training and keeping at it, but also not trying to overdo it with leg work (too many leg reps on exercise machines or gym, etc) so just doing some other things to build strength if you feel that is lacking in the jumping department.

[Madam, I'm Adam]

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I'd like to focus on ollieing higher this year, since it's probably my last year to be able to develop my ollie before I get too old. I just want to ollie over things the height of my knee, no big goals here.

I usually ride boards that have or are close to 8x31.5x14 dimensions, since that fits my average height, shoe size, and weight.

So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

1) A board with roughly the same width and length, but a longer wheelbase, maybe 14.5 inches, but with mellow kicks and concave so I can avoid ghost pop
2) I'd pair this longer-wheelbase board with a high truck, like Thunder Hollow his, and possibly riser pads
3) Smaller wheels, because bigger wheels can contribute to ghost pop

This is what I'm thinking so far, if anyone has any ideas on what to suggest or improve, I'd be happy to hear them.

Also, there's a lot of talk about how light boards and trucks are gimmicks and you need some leverage to pop, but I'm kind of feeling like the lightest deck and trucks are the way to go. Can anyone convince me that I'm wrong?

[close]

Sounds like the average DLX 8" deck, with 14.38 wb, would be about what you are after, any number, but one with a III or IV on top if possible as they are slightly more mellow, but that would pair well with Thunders easily enough and whatever wheels you prefer.

Many other boards around 8" have shorter wheelbases, but the DLX 8" is skated and enjoyed by a lot of people, so there has to be some logic to keep that shape / dimensions.


As for how high you can ollie and age, I would say it is more muscle training and keeping at it, but also not trying to overdo it with leg work (too many leg reps on exercise machines or gym, etc) so just doing some other things to build strength if you feel that is lacking in the jumping department.

Awesome, I'll definitely check out the DLX catalogue! I've never really rocked the full DLX setup and I'm thinking that it's definitely worth trying. You're a fountain of knowledge and it's much appreciated!

[Jowiththeflow]

I'd like to focus on ollieing higher this year, since it's probably my last year to be able to develop my ollie before I get too old. I just want to ollie over things the height of my knee, no big goals here.

I usually ride boards that have or are close to 8x31.5x14 dimensions, since that fits my average height, shoe size, and weight.

So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

1) A board with roughly the same width and length, but a longer wheelbase, maybe 14.5 inches, but with mellow kicks and concave so I can avoid ghost pop
2) I'd pair this longer-wheelbase board with a high truck, like Thunder Hollow his, and possibly riser pads
3) Smaller wheels, because bigger wheels can contribute to ghost pop

This is what I'm thinking so far, if anyone has any ideas on what to suggest or improve, I'd be happy to hear them.

Also, there's a lot of talk about how light boards and trucks are gimmicks and you need some leverage to pop, but I'm kind of feeling like the lightest deck and trucks are the way to go. Can anyone convince me that I'm wrong?

There is a thing called physics.

To make it short: You want a force (your pop) to make an object (you) go further in a direction (higher), with a lever (your set up).


Thoughts (in non particular order):

The only variable in above formula is the set up. (Unless you want to work out that is. )
 
The heavier something is- the further it goes. Think about throwing a table tennis ball and a golf ball.
But honestly you can forget about that, because you have to throw the board + yourself around, so the weight of your set up makes no big difference.

You want to go up. So the lever should channel the force in a steep curve.
The way you are about to go, to avoid ghost pop, will make it flatter. That means even if you pop harder you wouldn't go higher.



Conclusion:

The easiest way to get your ollies higher is simply a steeper set up.*
Short/ Steep tail, risers, big wheels, you name it.
I'm afraid you have to adjust your technique to that, in regards of "ghostpop".
Or gain more power. Or loose some weight.

...On the other hand skateboarding is not rocket science. Psychologie + spirit play a role, too.

So, ride what you like and what feels good.

Have fun experimanting!

Hope this makes sense /Sorry for the gibberish.



*I remember some 1990ish Decks that were just ridiculously steep (Deathbox "Rocker", G&S "Heintzman"...)
Barely useable for anything else, but they made you ollie two more stacked boards. And that was a thing back then. ("How high can you ollie?")

Edited for punctation.

[Mean salto]

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I'd like to focus on ollieing higher this year, since it's probably my last year to be able to develop my ollie before I get too old. I just want to ollie over things the height of my knee, no big goals here.

I usually ride boards that have or are close to 8x31.5x14 dimensions, since that fits my average height, shoe size, and weight.

So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

1) A board with roughly the same width and length, but a longer wheelbase, maybe 14.5 inches, but with mellow kicks and concave so I can avoid ghost pop
2) I'd pair this longer-wheelbase board with a high truck, like Thunder Hollow his, and possibly riser pads
3) Smaller wheels, because bigger wheels can contribute to ghost pop

This is what I'm thinking so far, if anyone has any ideas on what to suggest or improve, I'd be happy to hear them.

Also, there's a lot of talk about how light boards and trucks are gimmicks and you need some leverage to pop, but I'm kind of feeling like the lightest deck and trucks are the way to go. Can anyone convince me that I'm wrong?

[close]

There is a thing called physics.

To make it short: You want a force (your pop) to make an object (you) go further in a direction (higher), with a lever (your set up).


Thoughts (in non particular order):

The only variable in above formula is the set up. (Unless you want to work out that is. )
 
The heavier something is- the further it goes. Think about throwing a table tennis ball and a golf ball.
But honestly you can forget about that, because you have to throw the board + yourself around, so the weight of your set up makes no big difference.

You want to go up. So the lever should channel the force in a steep curve.
The way you are about to go, to avoid ghost pop, will make it flatter. That means even if you pop harder you wouldn't go higher.



Conclusion:

The easiest way to get your ollies higher is simply a steeper set up.*
Short/ Steep tail, risers, big wheels, you name it.
I'm afraid you have to adjust your technique to that, in regards of "ghostpop".
Or gain more power. Or loose some weight.

...On the other hand skateboarding is not rocket science. Psychologie + spirit play a role, too.

So, ride what you like and what feels good.

Have fun experimanting!

Hope this makes sense /Sorry for the gibberish.



*I remember some 1990ish Decks that were just ridiculously steep (Deathbox "Rocker", G&S "Heintzman"...)
Barely useable for anything else, but they made you ollie two more stacked boards. And that was a thing back then. ("How high can you ollie?")

Edited for punctation.

There's also a pretty big difference between Ollie over knee high comfortably and trying to get around world record Ollie. If the main problem is ghost pop then a lower flatter board is probably the go to. To go real high big wheels and maybe even ride your board backwards is how I'd do it.
There's also a bit of a see-saw technique that can help a lot going over things

[Jowiththeflow]

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I'd like to focus on ollieing higher this year, since it's probably my last year to be able to develop my ollie before I get too old. I just want to ollie over things the height of my knee, no big goals here.

I usually ride boards that have or are close to 8x31.5x14 dimensions, since that fits my average height, shoe size, and weight.

So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

1) A board with roughly the same width and length, but a longer wheelbase, maybe 14.5 inches, but with mellow kicks and concave so I can avoid ghost pop
2) I'd pair this longer-wheelbase board with a high truck, like Thunder Hollow his, and possibly riser pads
3) Smaller wheels, because bigger wheels can contribute to ghost pop

This is what I'm thinking so far, if anyone has any ideas on what to suggest or improve, I'd be happy to hear them.

Also, there's a lot of talk about how light boards and trucks are gimmicks and you need some leverage to pop, but I'm kind of feeling like the lightest deck and trucks are the way to go. Can anyone convince me that I'm wrong?

[close]

There is a thing called physics.

To make it short: You want a force (your pop) to make an object (you) go further in a direction (higher), with a lever (your set up).


Thoughts (in non particular order):

The only variable in above formula is the set up. (Unless you want to work out that is. )
 
The heavier something is- the further it goes. Think about throwing a table tennis ball and a golf ball.
But honestly you can forget about that, because you have to throw the board + yourself around, so the weight of your set up makes no big difference.

You want to go up. So the lever should channel the force in a steep curve.
The way you are about to go, to avoid ghost pop, will make it flatter. That means even if you pop harder you wouldn't go higher.



Conclusion:

The easiest way to get your ollies higher is simply a steeper set up.*
Short/ Steep tail, risers, big wheels, you name it.
I'm afraid you have to adjust your technique to that, in regards of "ghostpop".
Or gain more power. Or loose some weight.

...On the other hand skateboarding is not rocket science. Psychologie + spirit play a role, too.

So, ride what you like and what feels good.

Have fun experimanting!

Hope this makes sense /Sorry for the gibberish.



*I remember some 1990ish Decks that were just ridiculously steep (Deathbox "Rocker", G&S "Heintzman"...)
Barely useable for anything else, but they made you ollie two more stacked boards. And that was a thing back then. ("How high can you ollie?")

Edited for punctation.

[close]

There's also a pretty big difference between Ollie over knee high comfortably and trying to get around world record Ollie. If the main problem is ghost pop then a lower flatter board is probably the go to. To go real high big wheels and maybe even ride your board backwards is how I'd do it.
There's also a bit of a see-saw technique that can help a lot going over things

Well...yeah. Guess I overshot the target.

[Madam, I'm Adam]

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I'd like to focus on ollieing higher this year, since it's probably my last year to be able to develop my ollie before I get too old. I just want to ollie over things the height of my knee, no big goals here.

I usually ride boards that have or are close to 8x31.5x14 dimensions, since that fits my average height, shoe size, and weight.

So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

1) A board with roughly the same width and length, but a longer wheelbase, maybe 14.5 inches, but with mellow kicks and concave so I can avoid ghost pop
2) I'd pair this longer-wheelbase board with a high truck, like Thunder Hollow his, and possibly riser pads
3) Smaller wheels, because bigger wheels can contribute to ghost pop

This is what I'm thinking so far, if anyone has any ideas on what to suggest or improve, I'd be happy to hear them.

Also, there's a lot of talk about how light boards and trucks are gimmicks and you need some leverage to pop, but I'm kind of feeling like the lightest deck and trucks are the way to go. Can anyone convince me that I'm wrong?

[close]

There is a thing called physics.

To make it short: You want a force (your pop) to make an object (you) go further in a direction (higher), with a lever (your set up).


Thoughts (in non particular order):

The only variable in above formula is the set up. (Unless you want to work out that is. )
 
The heavier something is- the further it goes. Think about throwing a table tennis ball and a golf ball.
But honestly you can forget about that, because you have to throw the board + yourself around, so the weight of your set up makes no big difference.

You want to go up. So the lever should channel the force in a steep curve.
The way you are about to go, to avoid ghost pop, will make it flatter. That means even if you pop harder you wouldn't go higher.



Conclusion:

The easiest way to get your ollies higher is simply a steeper set up.*
Short/ Steep tail, risers, big wheels, you name it.
I'm afraid you have to adjust your technique to that, in regards of "ghostpop".
Or gain more power. Or loose some weight.

...On the other hand skateboarding is not rocket science. Psychologie + spirit play a role, too.

So, ride what you like and what feels good.

Have fun experimanting!

Hope this makes sense /Sorry for the gibberish.



*I remember some 1990ish Decks that were just ridiculously steep (Deathbox "Rocker", G&S "Heintzman"...)
Barely useable for anything else, but they made you ollie two more stacked boards. And that was a thing back then. ("How high can you ollie?")

Edited for punctation.

[close]

There's also a pretty big difference between Ollie over knee high comfortably and trying to get around world record Ollie. If the main problem is ghost pop then a lower flatter board is probably the go to. To go real high big wheels and maybe even ride your board backwards is how I'd do it.
There's also a bit of a see-saw technique that can help a lot going over things

[close]

Well...yeah. Guess I overshot the target.

Thanks guys, appreciate what you both said! I've honestly skated steep-kick boards and they're not my thing. I get ghost pop easily. I know a lot of my ollie is based on the right technique and just raw practice as well. I've been doing cardio almost every day since Nov. to get to 150 lbs from 160, I can't burn fat easily so it's taking time. You can never have too many solid gear tips though, haha. I mean, I think it's possible to improve my ollie at 36 years old, fuck we'll see.

[user18081971]

I feel like tensor mags and a dlx 8.06 is what you need

[SchizophrenicFatBoy]

Should I go down half or full size in (rubber-backed canvas) CTAS Pro Hi compared to Sole Tech shoes?

[notinternetfamous]

Should I go down half or full size in (rubber-backed canvas) CTAS Pro Hi compared to Sole Tech shoes?

You should be good with going down a half size, but if you can go somewhere locally to try them on, that would probably be the best way to determine what will work best for you. Not sure if I'm the only one, but I also go half size down for the Louie's even though most listings say they're TTS

[user18081971]

I found that the sizing has changed for cons and I have to go full size down now, at least for ctas. One stars might still be half size downs

[Uncle Jeffrey]

Reminder that diet is like 80% of weight loss. You can't out run a bad diet. Cardio is great overall for your health, but extremely shit for weight loss. Sure, if you're already operating on a very tight diet, tossing in more cardio will see weight loss. But I can out eat an hour of running in 2 minutes. Easily. A

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I'd like to focus on ollieing higher this year, since it's probably my last year to be able to develop my ollie before I get too old. I just want to ollie over things the height of my knee, no big goals here.

I usually ride boards that have or are close to 8x31.5x14 dimensions, since that fits my average height, shoe size, and weight.

So, I'm thinking of the following setup:

1) A board with roughly the same width and length, but a longer wheelbase, maybe 14.5 inches, but with mellow kicks and concave so I can avoid ghost pop
2) I'd pair this longer-wheelbase board with a high truck, like Thunder Hollow his, and possibly riser pads
3) Smaller wheels, because bigger wheels can contribute to ghost pop

This is what I'm thinking so far, if anyone has any ideas on what to suggest or improve, I'd be happy to hear them.

Also, there's a lot of talk about how light boards and trucks are gimmicks and you need some leverage to pop, but I'm kind of feeling like the lightest deck and trucks are the way to go. Can anyone convince me that I'm wrong?

[close]

There is a thing called physics.

To make it short: You want a force (your pop) to make an object (you) go further in a direction (higher), with a lever (your set up).


Thoughts (in non particular order):

The only variable in above formula is the set up. (Unless you want to work out that is. )
 
The heavier something is- the further it goes. Think about throwing a table tennis ball and a golf ball.
But honestly you can forget about that, because you have to throw the board + yourself around, so the weight of your set up makes no big difference.

You want to go up. So the lever should channel the force in a steep curve.
The way you are about to go, to avoid ghost pop, will make it flatter. That means even if you pop harder you wouldn't go higher.



Conclusion:

The easiest way to get your ollies higher is simply a steeper set up.*
Short/ Steep tail, risers, big wheels, you name it.
I'm afraid you have to adjust your technique to that, in regards of "ghostpop".
Or gain more power. Or loose some weight.

...On the other hand skateboarding is not rocket science. Psychologie + spirit play a role, too.

So, ride what you like and what feels good.

Have fun experimanting!

Hope this makes sense /Sorry for the gibberish.



*I remember some 1990ish Decks that were just ridiculously steep (Deathbox "Rocker", G&S "Heintzman"...)
Barely useable for anything else, but they made you ollie two more stacked boards. And that was a thing back then. ("How high can you ollie?")

Edited for punctation.

[close]

There's also a pretty big difference between Ollie over knee high comfortably and trying to get around world record Ollie. If the main problem is ghost pop then a lower flatter board is probably the go to. To go real high big wheels and maybe even ride your board backwards is how I'd do it.
There's also a bit of a see-saw technique that can help a lot going over things

[close]

Well...yeah. Guess I overshot the target.

[close]

Thanks guys, appreciate what you both said! I've honestly skated steep-kick boards and they're not my thing. I get ghost pop easily. I know a lot of my ollie is based on the right technique and just raw practice as well. I've been doing cardio almost every day since Nov. to get to 150 lbs from 160, I can't burn fat easily so it's taking time. You can never have too many solid gear tips though, haha. I mean, I think it's possible to improve my ollie at 36 years old, fuck we'll see.

[cucktard]

Thanks guys, appreciate what you both said! I've honestly skated steep-kick boards and they're not my thing. I get ghost pop easily. I know a lot of my ollie is based on the right technique and just raw practice as well. I've been doing cardio almost every day since Nov. to get to 150 lbs from 160, I can't burn fat easily so it's taking time. You can never have too many solid gear tips though, haha. I mean, I think it's possible to improve my ollie at 36 years old, fuck we'll see.

Good luck, I’m trying to relearn/improve my ollie at 46

[Madam, I'm Adam]

I feel like tensor mags and a dlx 8.06 is what you need

Yeah I'm thinking an anti-hero brown classic eagle!

You're totally right @Uncle Jeffrey and I've been cutting cheese, chocolate, simple carbs to try and get some flab off me

Good luck @cucktard we can get there gosh darnit

[fakie varial flip]

Are there any shoes or insoles that can help with persistent lower and mid back pain from skating?

I hurt my back doing other sports (psoas injury and SI joint injury) but now skating with the stock vans insoles feels like its murdering my back. This was never a problem previously. I do have a full yoga and stretching routine, see a PT, and have an osteo.

[Mean salto]

Are there any shoes or insoles that can help with persistent lower and mid back pain from skating?

I hurt my back doing other sports (psoas injury and SI joint injury) but now skating with the stock vans insoles feels like its murdering my back. This was never a problem previously. I do have a full yoga and stretching routine, see a PT, and have an osteo.

I've had a bunch of back issues for the past ten years and strangely wearing classic vans kinda helps sometimes for me. I also wear some Adidas boost runners or those Stefan janoski airmax for day to day stuff.
I don't know if there's any specific shoe or insole that fixes back pain while actually skating tho. If the pain comes specifically when your feet hit the ground maybe those DC Kalis if they have a unilite midsole

[LebowskisRug]

I’m oddly the same. I’ve got zero ligaments in one ankle from a ball fall and my other hip has no labrum and pops out of its socket from another crash. My other sport is rock climbing and I have persistent foot soreness and weird pains from wearing super small shoes. The new Vans Popcush insoles have just enough padding to take some impact sting off, but they’re also fairly stable and I don’t get any lateral roll.

My other favorite shoes are NB 440 and those make my feet sore after a long sesh but the Vans don’t.

[LebowskisRug]

Does a bigger nose improve flick or make it worse? I was thinking more contact patch with the shoe as it flicks off would make it come around faster after the shoe leaves, but delay when the shoe was in contact.

Also another weird question- I’ve noticed on one setup (Crail G052, Thunder 148 Team Hollow, 52 classics) that I have less pop in a straight line like doing fakie Ollie’s, but more when doing 180 stuff. How the fucking is that, it’s maddening?

[JugeL]

Does a bigger nose improve flick or make it worse? I was thinking more contact patch with the shoe as it flicks off would make it come around faster after the shoe leaves, but delay when the shoe was in contact.

For me, bigger nose has always made me think that i can really flick the shit out of my flip tricks. If you want actual science, i have none

[fakie varial flip]

I’m oddly the same. I’ve got zero ligaments in one ankle from a ball fall and my other hip has no labrum and pops out of its socket from another crash. My other sport is rock climbing and I have persistent foot soreness and weird pains from wearing super small shoes. The new Vans Popcush insoles have just enough padding to take some impact sting off, but they’re also fairly stable and I don’t get any lateral roll.

My other favorite shoes are NB 440 and those make my feet sore after a long sesh but the Vans don’t.

Expand Quote

Are there any shoes or insoles that can help with persistent lower and mid back pain from skating?

I hurt my back doing other sports (psoas injury and SI joint injury) but now skating with the stock vans insoles feels like its murdering my back. This was never a problem previously. I do have a full yoga and stretching routine, see a PT, and have an osteo.

[close]

I've had a bunch of back issues for the past ten years and strangely wearing classic vans kinda helps sometimes for me. I also wear some Adidas boost runners or those Stefan janoski airmax for day to day stuff.
I don't know if there's any specific shoe or insole that fixes back pain while actually skating tho. If the pain comes specifically when your feet hit the ground maybe those DC Kalis if they have a unilite midsole

Thanks guys - I was wondering whether I needed a more 'maximal' shoe like the 1010 and I'm happy it doesn't seem like that's the case. I realized after reading these responses (and feeling my achilles and hip this morning) I used to replace the vans insole with a flatter one from FP and I can't recall having this problem then. The back pain pops up hours later, and I always feel fine during the session.

I know a lot of people need more cushion in their shoes, but it appears that I need more flexible shoes, so I might just take a break from my clunky-ass Rowans. Typically when hiking or in daily life I use more minimal shoes which help my back a lot - I think because they allow me to use my arch more - so I was making sure I'm not missing out on some back-pain-mitigating-cushion. It's good to hear I'm not 

[LebowskisRug]

It’s also dependent on your overall physical well being. Back pain often comes from lack of strength as you age. Finding something you enjoy that effectively strengthens joints via resistance is crucial as you age even for overall well being.

[Jowiththeflow]

Lately I noticed a growing number of set ups with just one rail, what's the point? And where do you put it? Heelside or toeside? And, again, why?

[fakie varial flip]

It’s also dependent on your overall physical well being. Back pain often comes from lack of strength as you age. Finding something you enjoy that effectively strengthens joints via resistance is crucial as you age even for overall well being.

This is unfortunately a big part of my problem. I went from a competitive amateur powerlifter to using only kettlebells during covid, and the weaknesses that you get from powerlifting (notably, lack of focus on specific core strength) becomes a real issue. The back pain issue is a direct result of that and office work. Can't recommend specific core strength exercises (ESPECIALLY static exercises) to everyone enough, don't be a dummy like me

[mynameisnotjeff]

Lately I noticed a growing number of set ups with just one rail, what's the point? And where do you put it? Heelside or toeside? And, again, why?

Toe side for me, they help control when you boardslide. Although it may get annoying when you try front board but hitting the board helps me feel more in control.

[munchbox]

who else has severe confidence issues with smaller boards?
swear i had my best flip tricks on 8.75s
looked good with the slower flip and more consistent