Truck set-ups

[Frank and Fred]

Yeah, I think there was a period during the BPSW era where there was some hotroding. The tiny wheels also made the trucks look huge.

[backinaction]

Yeah, I think there was a period during the BPSW era where there was some hotroding. The tiny wheels also made the trucks look huge.

In the BPSW era (and the few years prior) we never thought of truck width to board width. I had two boards built up at a time because the wood was all shit and may snap whenever. One was with 9” trucks and one with 8.75. I think one time I actually swapped trucks to put the smaller ones on the smaller of the boards I had built up. Otherwise we just skated whatever. We gave no shits about hot rod or magic carpets.

Now, I have 12 sets of trucks and shit needs to be paired exactly. On my shaped setups I try to get the rear wheels (not axle) even to the deck which generally has me running a truck 1/8 to 1/4 wider than the rear deck measurement.

[Easy Slider]

I agree that in the BPSW era we did not bother about truck width.

Plus it was upon us without much warning so one day you rode a 10‘ shaped board with wide trucks and overnight the world had changed and 9‘ footballs were the truth, and then getting rapidly smaller from there down to around 7.5‘ in a few months.

We simply did not have the money to always get new trucks with every new deck so for a while we finished riding the large trucks on much smaller decks. Buying trucks felt like an investment back then.

Then it went the other way round, once you had finally saved up for 8‘ trucks adapted to those toothpick decks, board size went back up to 8.25, 8.5 

[TwisT]

I agree that in the BPSW era we did not bother about truck width.

Plus it was upon us without much warning so one day you rode a 10‘ shaped board with wide trucks and overnight the world had changed and 9‘ footballs were the truth, and then getting rapidly smaller from there down to around 7.5‘ in a few months.

We simply did not have the money to always get new trucks with every new deck so for a while we finished riding the large trucks on much smaller decks. Buying trucks felt like an investment back then.

Then it went the other way round, once you had finally saved up for 8‘ trucks adapted to those toothpick decks, board size went back up to 8.25, 8.5 

I personaly don't think truck width became a thing until 2010

[sketchyrider]

Expand Quote

I agree that in the BPSW era we did not bother about truck width.

Plus it was upon us without much warning so one day you rode a 10‘ shaped board with wide trucks and overnight the world had changed and 9‘ footballs were the truth, and then getting rapidly smaller from there down to around 7.5‘ in a few months.

We simply did not have the money to always get new trucks with every new deck so for a while we finished riding the large trucks on much smaller decks. Buying trucks felt like an investment back then.

Then it went the other way round, once you had finally saved up for 8‘ trucks adapted to those toothpick decks, board size went back up to 8.25, 8.5 

[close]

I personaly don't think truck width became a thing until 2010

would explain why some pros out there magic carpet hard AF

[Mbrimson88]

Muscle memory has a lot to do with it.

After more than 20 or so years on 8" trucks, in 2017 when I went from 139s to 144s on an 8.12 deck, a lot of how I skated changed just a little bit, as the wider truck meant you had to land more square on for nose or tail slides, but now I am on 149s or bigger boards, it doesn't matter so much, or I am more used to it.

Others I know still ride the 139s on 8, 8.12 and even 8.25 boards because anything other than that feels weird and their tricks don't work as that is how they have skated for 20 or so years.

Most of us had been on about the 139 size for a long time, so it was a big change to the 144s and lots of people didn't like it, or just went back to 139 / 8" trucks on their boards.


Going back to older or even 80s style / fish shaped decks, truck size didn't come into it half as much, but there were still specific sizes that you lined up on your deck to check first, usually wheels sticking out at the back, but the wider front of the board and wide tail meant you never really caught your foot on the back wheels either, as you were used to how wide the whole setup was.

Part of skating back then was riding things that others passed on to you, or you just skated what you had until the absolute last dying moment of whatever it was, so nothing got changed out anywhere near as regularly as things do now, be it for lack of money, knowledge of product or any other reason.

[slutbang666]

 

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I agree that in the BPSW era we did not bother about truck width.

Plus it was upon us without much warning so one day you rode a 10‘ shaped board with wide trucks and overnight the world had changed and 9‘ footballs were the truth, and then getting rapidly smaller from there down to around 7.5‘ in a few months.

We simply did not have the money to always get new trucks with every new deck so for a while we finished riding the large trucks on much smaller decks. Buying trucks felt like an investment back then.

Then it went the other way round, once you had finally saved up for 8‘ trucks adapted to those toothpick decks, board size went back up to 8.25, 8.5 

[close]

I personaly don't think truck width became a thing until 2010

[close]

would explain why some pros out there magic carpet hard AF

Yep still have friends riding 139’s on 8.5 because they can’t ride bigger trucks. I also rode a 8.5 with venture 5.0s at various times in my life haha

[Kevve]

I dont know where to post this but Will a 8.625 fit Indy 159s decent?

(8.75 axle) Maybe a 8.5 truck would fit better & be a little leś hefty but i dont wanna change trucks atm

[palelight]

I dont know where to post this but Will a 8.625 fit Indy 159s decent?

(8.75 axle) Maybe a 8.5 truck would fit better & be a little leś hefty but i dont wanna change trucks atm

They'd be fine. The wheels would (probably) line up with the rails on a 159/8.625 combo. The axle nuts might hotdog a bit but you wont see it when pushing.

[backinaction]

I dont know where to post this but Will a 8.625 fit Indy 159s decent?

(8.75 axle) Maybe a 8.5 truck would fit better & be a little leś hefty but i dont wanna change trucks atm

I would run 159s on it before 149s.  Unless you are running really wide wheels it should be fine.

[FrozenIndustries]

it's a big time in the life of trucks for me now that I'm skating more again... switched up from a pair of 149s to hollow 159s with green rip tides and swapped in my old ass cracked and cut bushings from the 149s. Yoooooo! these trucks are the shit! I had never really considered how much of a different feeling can be had from a switch in pivot cups. these rip tides feel like they're barely holding the truck in place, but goddamn is it nice.

hollow 159
no top front bushing washer
ride tides
old ass stock bushings

hey, this is kind of a new experience too, but I started skating these trucks less than 3 months ago and all I'm really doing are slappies, but damn are these things wearing down into a deep groove very quickly. It's nice getting locked in an all, and maybe it's because I'm skating a lot, but I've never had a groove get so deep so quickly. Wouldn't have thought that slappies on my 150lb frame would be so brutal on a set of trucks. Anyone else experience this? I'm just wondering if the alloy is different than trucks from 10 years ago/.

They are cast in a different place than they were 10 years ago, though same grade of aluminum and my Indys post-move are super durable. Slappies (and their addictive nature) will definitely wear through trucks quickly, though IMO Indy last longer than most.

[fakiefs180]

Muscle memory has a lot to do with it.

After more than 20 or so years on 8" trucks, in 2017 when I went from 139s to 144s on an 8.12 deck, a lot of how I skated changed just a little bit, as the wider truck meant you had to land more square on for nose or tail slides, but now I am on 149s or bigger boards, it doesn't matter so much, or I am more used to it.

Others I know still ride the 139s on 8, 8.12 and even 8.25 boards because anything other than that feels weird and their tricks don't work as that is how they have skated for 20 or so years.

Most of us had been on about the 139 size for a long time, so it was a big change to the 144s and lots of people didn't like it, or just went back to 139 / 8" trucks on their boards.


Going back to older or even 80s style / fish shaped decks, truck size didn't come into it half as much, but there were still specific sizes that you lined up on your deck to check first, usually wheels sticking out at the back, but the wider front of the board and wide tail meant you never really caught your foot on the back wheels either, as you were used to how wide the whole setup was.

Part of skating back then was riding things that others passed on to you, or you just skated what you had until the absolute last dying moment of whatever it was, so nothing got changed out anywhere near as regularly as things do now, be it for lack of money, knowledge of product or any other reason.

Are 139s to 144s really that much of a difference? 144s will be my next trucks soon and.. Well that made me a bit nervous ^^

[Mbrimson88]

Expand Quote

Muscle memory has a lot to do with it.

After more than 20 or so years on 8" trucks, in 2017 when I went from 139s to 144s on an 8.12 deck, a lot of how I skated changed just a little bit, as the wider truck meant you had to land more square on for nose or tail slides, but now I am on 149s or bigger boards, it doesn't matter so much, or I am more used to it.

Others I know still ride the 139s on 8, 8.12 and even 8.25 boards because anything other than that feels weird and their tricks don't work as that is how they have skated for 20 or so years.

Most of us had been on about the 139 size for a long time, so it was a big change to the 144s and lots of people didn't like it, or just went back to 139 / 8" trucks on their boards.


Going back to older or even 80s style / fish shaped decks, truck size didn't come into it half as much, but there were still specific sizes that you lined up on your deck to check first, usually wheels sticking out at the back, but the wider front of the board and wide tail meant you never really caught your foot on the back wheels either, as you were used to how wide the whole setup was.

Part of skating back then was riding things that others passed on to you, or you just skated what you had until the absolute last dying moment of whatever it was, so nothing got changed out anywhere near as regularly as things do now, be it for lack of money, knowledge of product or any other reason.

[close]

Are 139s to 144s really that much of a difference? 144s will be my next trucks soon and.. Well that made me a bit nervous ^^

I got used to them fairly quickly, but it is 5mm difference in total width.

Just checked and compared a few sets of people's boards and my board with 144s and three washers on the inside almost matched up to another board with 149s and only one washer on the inside (same wheels) so where you put the washers make some difference too.

In my old 139s, I would always use two or three washers on the inside as I wanted maximum width on 8.12 width decks, then upped to 144s and did the same inside washers, but with only one on the inside, it doesn't make much difference at all.

The number of the Indy is the mm width, so 139 mm hanger, 144 mm hanger, 149 mm hanger, etc.

[Krooked antihero]

I went back to 8” truck ( ace 03 ) after skating few sets of indy 149’s and ace 44’s, I just never felt comfy on fliptricks with bigger trucks. Must have something to do with the fact I’ve learned all my flips on like 7.5-7.625” boards lol.

[Peepeeboy69]

Anybody know whats the hardness of stock thunder bushings? I'm trying to buy replacements for my 149s but none of the bushings thunder sells look exactly like the stock ones, might just be pictures being weird.

[bbk]

supposed to be 90, so white or yellow.

[manysnakes]

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Put Krepers in my 55 classics and 159s. Used JB weld, everything seems very solid.

[close]

For people who do the Krux, Kreper, Grindking kingpin hack how does this affect the looseness of your trucks? How loose do you normally run your trucks?

Maybe a harder question to get an answer to, but is there a difference between the three options or is it just a matter of what you can get your hands on?

I can't speak for Indys, but I did the Ace with the Krux kingpin and I can tell you that you better like loose trucks if you go this way. There are simply not enough threads on the kingpin to really squish down your bushings in a meaningful way. I've thought about threading the bolt deeper (which might cause it to fail), but I don't have the right die, so I'd have to borrow and buy one. Alternatively, I could buy a comically expensive titanium button-head Allen bolt of the appropriate thread pitch, but I just cannot justify spending another $30 on a pair of Ace trucks worn almost to the axle.

[FrozenIndustries]

Expand Quote

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Put Krepers in my 55 classics and 159s. Used JB weld, everything seems very solid.

[close]

For people who do the Krux, Kreper, Grindking kingpin hack how does this affect the looseness of your trucks? How loose do you normally run your trucks?

Maybe a harder question to get an answer to, but is there a difference between the three options or is it just a matter of what you can get your hands on?

[close]

I can't speak for Indys, but I did the Ace with the Krux kingpin and I can tell you that you better like loose trucks if you go this way. There are simply not enough threads on the kingpin to really squish down your bushings in a meaningful way. I've thought about threading the bolt deeper (which might cause it to fail), but I don't have the right die, so I'd have to borrow and buy one. Alternatively, I could buy a comically expensive titanium button-head Allen bolt of the appropriate thread pitch, but I just cannot justify spending another $30 on a pair of Ace trucks worn almost to the axle.

I've logged about 5 and change hours on my Indys with Kreper pins and they have been staying where I adjusted them to just fine (easy to keep track of with the very cool and spooky graphic etched into the top). I need to take them out tomorrow to put some riptides pivot cups in, so when I do I will compare threading length on these versus a set of Krux DLKs I have. Pics to come.

I put a Kreper in my 55 classics as well, but I haven't been feeling them so they've just been sitting. That being said, Aces have some very tall bushings so they might make it harder to get the kingpin into the unlock zone. So maybe some taller bushings and a lower top? The cavity on Ace classics is very small, though, so the KP might stick into the board.

[manysnakes]

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Put Krepers in my 55 classics and 159s. Used JB weld, everything seems very solid.

[close]

For people who do the Krux, Kreper, Grindking kingpin hack how does this affect the looseness of your trucks? How loose do you normally run your trucks?

Maybe a harder question to get an answer to, but is there a difference between the three options or is it just a matter of what you can get your hands on?

[close]

I can't speak for Indys, but I did the Ace with the Krux kingpin and I can tell you that you better like loose trucks if you go this way. There are simply not enough threads on the kingpin to really squish down your bushings in a meaningful way. I've thought about threading the bolt deeper (which might cause it to fail), but I don't have the right die, so I'd have to borrow and buy one. Alternatively, I could buy a comically expensive titanium button-head Allen bolt of the appropriate thread pitch, but I just cannot justify spending another $30 on a pair of Ace trucks worn almost to the axle.

[close]

I've logged about 5 and change hours on my Indys with Kreper pins and they have been staying where I adjusted them to just fine (easy to keep track of with the very cool and spooky graphic etched into the top). I need to take them out tomorrow to put some riptides pivot cups in, so when I do I will compare threading length on these versus a set of Krux DLKs I have. Pics to come.

I put a Kreper in my 55 classics as well, but I haven't been feeling them so they've just been sitting. That being said, Aces have some very tall bushings so they might make it  harder to get the kingpin into the unlock zone. So maybe some taller bushings and a lower top? The cavity on Ace classics is very small, though, so the KP might stick into the board.

To be clear, there is absolutely no problem with the Krux kingpins in my Ace trucks coming loose or moving on their own in any way. I would recommend this mod to anyone who wants to do so and who likes their trucks loose. I merely did the mod because both of the factory kingpins rattled loose from the baseplate, and I figured that instead of complaining to Ace or using JB Weld to try and keep them in place, I would experiment with the Krux kingpin.

It is entirely possible that the threads run longer with the Kreper/GK kingpin, which would allow a better range of adjustment. I've been tempted by them on eBay, maybe I'll buy a pair and provide measurements for the curious. Even if it's too long, I have a workshop and it would be simple enough to cut it down to fit.

Again though, the real problem here is the same question - how much do I want to invest into a pair of 80% worn out Ace?

[Mbrimson88]

Anybody know whats the hardness of stock thunder bushings? I'm trying to buy replacements for my 149s but none of the bushings thunder sells look exactly like the stock ones, might just be pictures being weird.

supposed to be 90, so white or yellow.

Yep, 90 duro so there are two options:

One page back, pic there of the bushing cylinders.

https://www.slapmagazine.com/index.php?topic=88869.msg3565643#msg3565643


The other option if you cannot find those specific ones is the rebuild kit, which has the bushings, as well as all the coloured nuts, washers and pivot cups too, but the red one is 90.

Might be a bit much with all that jazz, but at least they have the bushings in there and those kits seemed like they were everywhere, or at least a lot more around than just the bushing cylinders.


Note:  I just found a better pic from DLX with current coloured bushings, so I guess they have two 90 in either colour, but there seem like there are still some white or yellow around in online shops, eg these two:

https://www.paradeworld.com/products/thunder-bushings-90a-yellow-175-5909431353507/

https://skateparkoftampa.com/thunder-bushing-tube-90-durometer-bushings-yellow-76940-8

[FrozenIndustries]

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Put Krepers in my 55 classics and 159s. Used JB weld, everything seems very solid.

[close]

For people who do the Krux, Kreper, Grindking kingpin hack how does this affect the looseness of your trucks? How loose do you normally run your trucks?

Maybe a harder question to get an answer to, but is there a difference between the three options or is it just a matter of what you can get your hands on?

[close]

I can't speak for Indys, but I did the Ace with the Krux kingpin and I can tell you that you better like loose trucks if you go this way. There are simply not enough threads on the kingpin to really squish down your bushings in a meaningful way. I've thought about threading the bolt deeper (which might cause it to fail), but I don't have the right die, so I'd have to borrow and buy one. Alternatively, I could buy a comically expensive titanium button-head Allen bolt of the appropriate thread pitch, but I just cannot justify spending another $30 on a pair of Ace trucks worn almost to the axle.

[close]

I've logged about 5 and change hours on my Indys with Kreper pins and they have been staying where I adjusted them to just fine (easy to keep track of with the very cool and spooky graphic etched into the top). I need to take them out tomorrow to put some riptides pivot cups in, so when I do I will compare threading length on these versus a set of Krux DLKs I have. Pics to come.

I put a Kreper in my 55 classics as well, but I haven't been feeling them so they've just been sitting. That being said, Aces have some very tall bushings so they might make it  harder to get the kingpin into the unlock zone. So maybe some taller bushings and a lower top? The cavity on Ace classics is very small, though, so the KP might stick into the board.

[close]

To be clear, there is absolutely no problem with the Krux kingpins in my Ace trucks coming loose or moving on their own in any way. I would recommend this mod to anyone who wants to do so and who likes their trucks loose. I merely did the mod because both of the factory kingpins rattled loose from the baseplate, and I figured that instead of complaining to Ace or using JB Weld to try and keep them in place, I would experiment with the Krux kingpin.

It is entirely possible that the threads run longer with the Kreper/GK kingpin, which would allow a better range of adjustment. I've been tempted by them on eBay, maybe I'll buy a pair and provide measurements for the curious. Even if it's too long, I have a workshop and it would be simple enough to cut it down to fit.

Again though, the real problem here is the same question - how much do I want to invest into a pair of 80% worn out Ace?

Here is a Kreper/Krux comparison photo:



Krux has about 11mm of threading, Kreper has about 17mm. So it seems like you could make the Krepers much tighter if you wanted.

[manysnakes]

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Put Krepers in my 55 classics and 159s. Used JB weld, everything seems very solid.

[close]

For people who do the Krux, Kreper, Grindking kingpin hack how does this affect the looseness of your trucks? How loose do you normally run your trucks?

Maybe a harder question to get an answer to, but is there a difference between the three options or is it just a matter of what you can get your hands on?

[close]

I can't speak for Indys, but I did the Ace with the Krux kingpin and I can tell you that you better like loose trucks if you go this way. There are simply not enough threads on the kingpin to really squish down your bushings in a meaningful way. I've thought about threading the bolt deeper (which might cause it to fail), but I don't have the right die, so I'd have to borrow and buy one. Alternatively, I could buy a comically expensive titanium button-head Allen bolt of the appropriate thread pitch, but I just cannot justify spending another $30 on a pair of Ace trucks worn almost to the axle.

[close]

I've logged about 5 and change hours on my Indys with Kreper pins and they have been staying where I adjusted them to just fine (easy to keep track of with the very cool and spooky graphic etched into the top). I need to take them out tomorrow to put some riptides pivot cups in, so when I do I will compare threading length on these versus a set of Krux DLKs I have. Pics to come.

I put a Kreper in my 55 classics as well, but I haven't been feeling them so they've just been sitting. That being said, Aces have some very tall bushings so they might make it  harder to get the kingpin into the unlock zone. So maybe some taller bushings and a lower top? The cavity on Ace classics is very small, though, so the KP might stick into the board.

[close]

To be clear, there is absolutely no problem with the Krux kingpins in my Ace trucks coming loose or moving on their own in any way. I would recommend this mod to anyone who wants to do so and who likes their trucks loose. I merely did the mod because both of the factory kingpins rattled loose from the baseplate, and I figured that instead of complaining to Ace or using JB Weld to try and keep them in place, I would experiment with the Krux kingpin.

It is entirely possible that the threads run longer with the Kreper/GK kingpin, which would allow a better range of adjustment. I've been tempted by them on eBay, maybe I'll buy a pair and provide measurements for the curious. Even if it's too long, I have a workshop and it would be simple enough to cut it down to fit.

Again though, the real problem here is the same question - how much do I want to invest into a pair of 80% worn out Ace?

[close]

Here is a Kreper/Krux comparison photo:



Krux has about 11mm of threading, Kreper has about 17mm. So it seems like you could make the Krepers much tighter if you wanted.

Perfect! This is golden knowledge!

[Firebert]

Another thing that makes the Kreper pins better is there's no separate washer to cut into the top of the bushings. Krux has a custom washer that's counter sunk with the kingpin head that really does change the way the trucks turn.

[Xen]

Another thing that makes the Kreper pins better is there's no separate washer to cut into the top of the bushings. Krux has a custom washer that's counter sunk with the kingpin head that really does change the way the trucks turn.

Honestly, I've never felt the krux washer impacts the turn on any truck I've used it on, it's just a cupped washer, albeit a bit bigger.

Moreover, the decreased resistance in grinding due to its shape far outweighs any slight (if there is any) decrease in turning (which the cupped washers due limit at a certain point); but I ride so loose that I wouldn't notice in the first place =P

[manysnakes]

It seems like the two things a user could change which would effect how a truck skates would be the stack height of the lowest washer and bushings, along with bushing durometer. Unless I am conceiving of it all wrong, I don't see how a top washer would effect a truck's performance, except nominally with how it interacts with the bushing.

[Mbrimson88]

It seems like the two things a user could change which would effect how a truck skates would be the stack height of the lowest washer and bushings, along with bushing durometer. Unless I am conceiving of it all wrong, I don't see how a top washer would effect a truck's performance, except nominally with how it interacts with the bushing.

Some people say the top is very important and they can feel any difference with it, but I have been using lower top bushings (either cutting them down or using the stock Indy low tops) for almost 20 years or more, as well as having to do that in the 80s when your trucks wore down too much and that was the only way to make them last longer.

It definitely changes things having a different height with the bottom bushing assembly, which I have tried and not liked at all.  Leaving the bottom as it should be and having lower heads / top bushings, with lower kingpin nuts and cutting off the top of the kingpin makes it a much easier, longer lasting setup and I don't need to buy anything else (like inverted kingpin assemblies) or do much more than grind down the kingpin and away I go for the life of the truck.

I prefer a slightly harder set of bushings (92a) with low tops which make the truck still able to turn a whole lot but not being so sloppy / loose that it is unmanageable, but any bushings can be altered to fit any setup.

[manysnakes]

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Put Krepers in my 55 classics and 159s. Used JB weld, everything seems very solid.

[close]

For people who do the Krux, Kreper, Grindking kingpin hack how does this affect the looseness of your trucks? How loose do you normally run your trucks?

Maybe a harder question to get an answer to, but is there a difference between the three options or is it just a matter of what you can get your hands on?

[close]

I can't speak for Indys, but I did the Ace with the Krux kingpin and I can tell you that you better like loose trucks if you go this way. There are simply not enough threads on the kingpin to really squish down your bushings in a meaningful way. I've thought about threading the bolt deeper (which might cause it to fail), but I don't have the right die, so I'd have to borrow and buy one. Alternatively, I could buy a comically expensive titanium button-head Allen bolt of the appropriate thread pitch, but I just cannot justify spending another $30 on a pair of Ace trucks worn almost to the axle.

[close]

I've logged about 5 and change hours on my Indys with Kreper pins and they have been staying where I adjusted them to just fine (easy to keep track of with the very cool and spooky graphic etched into the top). I need to take them out tomorrow to put some riptides pivot cups in, so when I do I will compare threading length on these versus a set of Krux DLKs I have. Pics to come.

I put a Kreper in my 55 classics as well, but I haven't been feeling them so they've just been sitting. That being said, Aces have some very tall bushings so they might make it  harder to get the kingpin into the unlock zone. So maybe some taller bushings and a lower top? The cavity on Ace classics is very small, though, so the KP might stick into the board.

[close]

To be clear, there is absolutely no problem with the Krux kingpins in my Ace trucks coming loose or moving on their own in any way. I would recommend this mod to anyone who wants to do so and who likes their trucks loose. I merely did the mod because both of the factory kingpins rattled loose from the baseplate, and I figured that instead of complaining to Ace or using JB Weld to try and keep them in place, I would experiment with the Krux kingpin.

It is entirely possible that the threads run longer with the Kreper/GK kingpin, which would allow a better range of adjustment. I've been tempted by them on eBay, maybe I'll buy a pair and provide measurements for the curious. Even if it's too long, I have a workshop and it would be simple enough to cut it down to fit.

Again though, the real problem here is the same question - how much do I want to invest into a pair of 80% worn out Ace?

[close]

Here is a Kreper/Krux comparison photo:



Krux has about 11mm of threading, Kreper has about 17mm. So it seems like you could make the Krepers much tighter if you wanted.

I ended up buying some Kreper pins from eBay. Haven’t set them up yet, but if you’re a weight weenie it’s worth noting that they are 36g per kingpin, while the Krux Downlow come in 28g with washer.

[logjammin]

I have some older "stage 2" Ace's that are very worn down and starting to slow down on grinds due to my kingpin catching. I ride stock Ace bushings but always go no top washer, as I would with any truck since I find it always limits the full potential of the turn. Therefore, I have to crank the kingpin nut down a few threads till it gets to the point where I can't spin my bottom bushing with my finger tips.

My question is, if I knocked out these kingpins with a hammer and vice grip, since my set up allows the nylock to catch a few threads in rather than just being flush, is it safe to leave them without the JB Weld and the nut won't like vibrate loose several threads up and then end up falling off? I know I'd have to remove the trucks to loosen/tighten but I'm not worried about that part, just want to know if they're safe to roll and grind on without my hanger falling off. Shalom

[FrozenIndustries]

I have some older "stage 2" Ace's that are very worn down and starting to slow down on grinds due to my kingpin catching. I ride stock Ace bushings but always go no top washer, as I would with any truck since I find it always limits the full potential of the turn. Therefore, I have to crank the kingpin nut down a few threads till it gets to the point where I can't spin my bottom bushing with my finger tips.

My question is, if I knocked out these kingpins with a hammer and vice grip, since my set up allows the nylock to catch a few threads in rather than just being flush, is it safe to leave them without the JB Weld and the nut won't like vibrate loose several threads up and then end up falling off? I know I'd have to remove the trucks to loosen/tighten but I'm not worried about that part, just want to know if they're safe to roll and grind on without my hanger falling off. Shalom

Is there a reason that you don't want to use JB Weld? Given the size of the cavity in Aces, I don't think that you would be able to tighten them at all without the nut being welded into place.

[logjammin]

Just time and laziness, I guess. I read you can wedge a flathead to hold the nut while you tighten the inverted kingpin, so if I have like 3-4 threads engaged with the nylock I'll know it's my desired looseness and can just mount them. But if the nut has the potential to come loose and fall off, I guess I'd bite the bullet and get the JB Weld. Thanks for your response, shalom