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I think the k5 kingpin should work in all those trucks but can't say for sure. Haven't tried installing my own inverted kingpin since krux pins in thunders a few years ago.
Thunders and ventures all extend the wheelbase relative to indys and aces though.
Why remove the bottom washer? I assume that loosens it up a bit but couldn't you just run the truck a half turn looser? I've skated without washers before and in my experience all it did was make my bushings crumble faster and reduce overall stability without too much of an increase in turn. Adding a riser pad on an already high truck would probably be a bit weird especially if its already less stable from removing the bottom washer.
I guess I skate my trucks at a solid medium, medium loose sometimes, so maybe what we're after is very different.
Honestly it sounds like a stock lurpiv that you run loose could work fine and you wouldn't have to mess with it. But if you insist on modifying things a bunch, maybe just consider standard indys, do all your adjustments and then swap out the kingpin for a krux.
Removing the bottom washer started for me kinda by accident. Switching to bones bushings, they recommend ditch the washers completely, then going to soft doh dohs I needed the top washer to keep the truck together, and then I made it back to Indy bushings with the top washer and no bottom washer. I've been rocking that for about a year and I really like the turn, but I'm a little too quick to wheel bite so I think I'm going to add riser pads in my next set up. I've been studying truck geometry recently and I've narrowed down the few variables that I think actually affect the turning, and I had been inadvertantly affecting a few of them by removing that washer. Basically if you remove the bottom washer, or if your bottom bushing is smaller or lower for whatever reason, your hanger is going to sit a little lower, and a little closer to the middle of the board, and therefore also sit at a different angle - all 3 things affect the turning. Sitting lower will cause the king pin to stick out more relative to the hanger, so downlow king pin is definitely the move for this alteration. Sitting lower makes you more prone to wheel bite, so I'm adding riser pads in the next set up (side note - there's another factor causing wheel bite quicker but that will be later in the comment). Sitting closer to the middle of the board is shortening the wheel base - which means shorter turning radius. But what I think is the main advantage is when you sit lower you change the angle that the hanger sits so you increase the responsiveness of the turn. Responsiveness always seemed like a vague thing but I can explain precisely what I mean - Basically when you lean, how much of that leaning force is converted into the hangers rotating. I'll explain how I think it works because I didn't do all this research just to keep it in my head haha. Basically when you lean on one side you're causing the hanger to rotate by providing a net force perpendicular to the rotational axis. The rotational axis is the line from the pivot cup to where the hanger touches the bottom bushing. You can check for yourself right now if you hold your board so that the line from the pivot cup to the bottom bushing is straight vertical. Then look at where your wheel bite marks are and you'll see that the line from your wheel to the wheel bite mark is horizontal. When you change the angle of the rotational axis relative to the deck, the relationship is changed between the forces you apply to the deck and how much the hangers rotate. If your bottom bushing is lower than normal, then the angle from the pivot cup to where the hanger touches the bushing (the rotational axis) is more parallel to the ground than normal, and therefore more perpendicular to your downward leaning force. The more perpendicular the direction of force is to the rotational axis, the more torque on the rotational axis, in other words more of your lean is converted to the hanger turning. Back to wheel bite - I mentioned lowering the bushing adds wheel bite by another factor and that is related to the angle change. If the hangers rotational axis is more paralell with the ground, the hanger rotating will intersect with the board quicker. So downlow king pin, riser pads, and no bottom washer - and I think I'm going to do it on Ace, that's my gamble for 2022.
If I understand correctly, you're doing all this so that the hanger sits at a slightly sharper angle for a little more responsiveness?
What trucks do you currently skate?
May be wrong, but I think venture hangers are pretty perpendicular, hence the extended wheelbase whereas Aces, compared to most trucks, probably already have a hanger that sits at a more aggressive angle, contributing to the more responsive turn. Again, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
It honestly sounds like unless you need some crazy, unparalleled degree of "responsiveness", which I would guess is at the expense of some stability, stock Aces should be good enough. Generally considered the "turniest" truck on the market with the shortest wb.
I personally don't see how removing the bottom washer would result in such drastic benefits that its worth getting risers and a custom kingpin just to offset the drawbacks.
Personally speaking, risers, more wheelbite and a lack of stability would mess with my skating way more than a marginally better turn would benefit it.
Topic: Truck set-ups (Read 1509368 times)