Truck set-ups

[moonordie]

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Setup my new 149 tit indys...one axle was machined weird (or not enough), it was difficult  to get the wheels on (one more than the other), but not so bad I thought it to be a major issue, and once on, wheel is so difficult to get off the bearing will stay the axle when I yank the wheel off and it's impossible to get the bearing off...I've tried everything, started to bang off the bearing to no use, so now I've got a bronson ceramic stuck mid axle on a truck I can't fucking use, fucking livid right now.

Newer China-indys, no cross and 149 under the hanger.

Leaving it as is (yes those are hammer to truck rage marks (bearing still spins).

[close]

You could try dis to generate more force

[close]

Finally got it off after days of fuckery...no vice, which would have helped a ton; I drizzled some bronson ceramic oil over the axle at the bearing and let it sit for a day, after some major effort I finally got the bearing off without fucking it up (though I think I lightly sprained my thumb trying to get the bearing off ).

Picked up a cheap-o rotary tool off Amazon and got the axle worked enough to where I can get a bearing on and off (slight effort still, has to be at the right angle or it sticks but I can get a wheel on and off, even if it's not perfect/easy); it's hard to get at the axle where it meets the face of the hanger as the bearing would get stuck there, because of the handle of the tool causing it to angle in due to it touching the axle when trying to work...but it's enough that it doesn't look like the axle is krooked/wonky to have any inner race issues when riding (wheels spin on it fine) and the hanger face is still smooth (I use two speed rings so that's moot really); I've yet to skate them but I'm assuming everything is fine now...at least that wheel won't fly off if the nut somehow falls off...

Big pain in the ass really (especially after getting the fucked up pair or ACEAF1s)...but NHS hooked me up with a 'team box' of hard and soft goods which arrived today! Proper CS right there (told them I'd be fine with just a hanger and one bearing) as they went above and beyond.

You know we're waiting for a photo from that "team box"

[Xen]

You know we're waiting for a photo from that "team box"

@moonordie


149 Mids and Standards
LS/SS ugly never to be worn in public bronson shirts
Raglan sweatshirt (black sleeves) with a cool hidden hoodie front style pocket, it's sort of reversed/inside (not a fan of hoodies so this is great)
Misc

Shout out to the lurking NHS crew!

[moonordie]

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You know we're waiting for a photo from that "team box"

[close]

@moonordie


149 Mids and Standards
LS/SS ugly never to be worn in public bronson shirts
Raglan sweatshirt (black sleeves) with a cool hidden hoodie front style pocket, it's sort of reversed/inside (not a fan of hoodies so this is great)
Misc

Shout out to the lurking NHS crew!

Niceeeeeee

[rocklobster]

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You know we're waiting for a photo from that "team box"

[close]

@moonordie


149 Mids and Standards
LS/SS ugly never to be worn in public bronson shirts
Raglan sweatshirt (black sleeves) with a cool hidden hoodie front style pocket, it's sort of reversed/inside (not a fan of hoodies so this is great)
Misc

Shout out to the lurking NHS crew!

Misc = 2 x Bronson Ceramics, damn

[Xen]

Well stickers and pins hats was more of the misc category

[Srt32srt]

Indy 139 Reynolds stage 11s
- 8.125 boards, 53mm wheels
- aftermarket Indy medium bushings

I also ride a slightly looser front truck with both kingpin nuts not completely flush, though I tighten them as I skate them more. I don't modify or remove parts from my trucks 'cause it seems contrary to the way they were designed to be used but that's just my OCD. Sometimes I wonder what it would be like to fuck with them a bit.

i use to ride a loose truck up front and tigher in the back but been skating more switch than regular and find that it makes my switch unstable, so keep them the same so the board feels the same no matter what stance im riding.

[TheCrimsonShroud]

I also ride a slightly looser front truck with both kingpin nuts not completely flush, though I tighten them as I skate them more. I don't modify or remove parts from my trucks 'cause it seems contrary to the way they were designed to be used but that's just my OCD. Sometimes I wonder what it would be like to fuck with them a bit.

I'm with you on that. Hell, I don't change the laces in my shoes unless I have to. I kinda feel like things were designed a way for a reason.

[Xen]

So Indy offers conical aftermarket bushings and I've never tried them so I'm finally going to pull the trigger. Conical being the same shape as bones bushings.

Anyways, I'm torn between the blue color (92a) or the red (88a). I'm a little over 200lbs and I can't ride super soft bushings, but hards take forever to break in, so I've always stuck with medium Bones. However, Indy's red ones which are considered soft, are 88a and not ridiculously soft like Bones' 81a. Anyone think I'd be good with the red ones, or should I not risk destroying them quickly and go with the blues?

Get the 90a orange conicals

[switchfrontshuv]

currently on 8.125 control wood with

149 thunder team Eds (2 washers on inside) and 54mm sml wheels (not v cut) and 1/8 risers

the 8.125/8.5 truck combo was strange at first because despite having like a shorter nose and pointier feeling tail it felt manageable, and turning was still nice (still wheel bite if I stand directly on a wheel like thunder always does) with the risers and big wheels.

pinch was amazing. every crook on a nice buttery ledge could hang on for ages and popping out felt a bit better too for some reason. 5050s are good too but on the off chance they slip off it feels kinda violent (extra truck space making it feel a bit accelerated when you slip out)

really wanna stay on <8.25 decks now though because long decks are apparently my pet peeve now (makes sense, im a 30in pant leg length)

overall kinda happy with this combo. really liking this deck though because its so short (almost 31.5) so flip tricks including switch heels and whatnot are pretty good (pop stupid high), could do with slightly mellower kicks but fingers of flat lets it do its thing

[FrozenIndustries]

Has anyone put an inverted kingpin into a forged plate, and if so is the OG kingpin harder to get out?

[Firebert]

Has anyone put an inverted kingpin into a forged plate, and if so is the OG kingpin harder to get out?

I was able to knock out one, but the other wouldn't budge. I flattened the threading out and by that point, the threads were so flared out, it wouldn't have come out even if I was able to hammer it loose. I wouldn't recommend trying to hammer them, but if you have a friend who works with cars or machinery, maybe he can lend you an industrial press.

[FrozenIndustries]

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Has anyone put an inverted kingpin into a forged plate, and if so is the OG kingpin harder to get out?

[close]

I was able to knock out one, but the other wouldn't budge. I flattened the threading out and by that point, the threads were so flared out, it wouldn't have come out even if I was able to hammer it loose. I wouldn't recommend trying to hammer them, but if you have a friend who works with cars or machinery, maybe he can lend you an industrial press.

Thank you, very good to know.

[Xen]

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Has anyone put an inverted kingpin into a forged plate, and if so is the OG kingpin harder to get out?

[close]

I was able to knock out one, but the other wouldn't budge. I flattened the threading out and by that point, the threads were so flared out, it wouldn't have come out even if I was able to hammer it loose. I wouldn't recommend trying to hammer them, but if you have a friend who works with cars or machinery, maybe he can lend you an industrial press.

[close]

Thank you, very good to know.

Heating them in an oven helps, but it's tough either way; I did it with forged Thunders once (hammer and a parking block, nut on btw, and the pin centered over the parking block hole), it's a shallow baseplate so the kingpin nut dug into the deck a little bit. Wasn't worth it in the long run (it never is unless you have tools as it's always a hassle).

[Banned from the room]

I'm at axle again. This is the first time my back truck hit axle first since I was a little kid

[Banging in the Slammer]

Does anyone know where to buy titanium light III 148 or 149 trucks? I can’t find them anywhere. I did try using the search function. No luck

[pointandclick]

Does anyone know where to buy titanium light III 148 or 149 trucks? I can’t find them anywhere. I did try using the search function. No luck

yeah im looking for titanium 148's too.

[Banned from the room]

I only found hollows when I looked

[Xen]

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Does anyone know where to buy titanium light III 148 or 149 trucks? I can’t find them anywhere. I did try using the search function. No luck

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yeah im looking for titanium 148's too.

Was looking myself, they've been MIA for over a year now; hollow lights are the lightest you can get right now.

[Mbrimson88]

I know this has already been explored and maybe tested to death, but I had a play with some IKP baseplates, more just for show and tell, but this is what I did yesterday, when they got here.


https://www.ocdskateshop.com.au/products/independent-ikp-baseplate-set


Independent Inverted Kingpin Baseplate set, or IKP for short

OCD Skateshop had 20% off trucks and wheels including these new Indy baseplate sets, so I got some as people had been asking about them. I also got some new Indy trucks and after they arrived today, I did a little swap and measure of the normal standard 149 trucks with the inverted kingpin baseplates, as per pictures provided, along with my personal preference set aside for this experiment (as I prefer normal standard kingpin assemblies to IKP versions).

The first thing I noticed was the inverted kingpin itself doesn't have a particularly long thread, so I tightened these down as far as they would go, which wasn't that much with the truck still feeling fairly loose overall. They sit a few mm below the standard kingpin at that height, but apart from that they are almost the same in terms of the baseplates, with maybe a slightly different angle of the kingpin to the normal ones, but it was minimal. The IKP has a special nut that sits inside the baseplate, so there is no way you will be taking these out to change them over, but you can always use any other brand kingpin to put into them.

The other interesting thing was to see how much clearance there was on the IKP set compared to standards, as per the last pic showing the angle of them when sitting on the hanger and resting on the kingpin, with the IKP version definitely having a lower profile.

[rosemaryBB]

Anyone use aftermarket bushings that aren't bones? Got a set of Indy forged hollows coming my way (been on Ace or Film for the last year) and wondering what people think work best. Definitely like the base level looseness of Ace and Film, by which I mean I can crank down the kingpin to be showing a thread or two at least and they still carve like crazy but have a stability that makes setting up for flicks and balancing manny tricks a lot easier... wondering if anything gets indy feeling similar.

I'm tiny at like 130lbs, skate mostly street (ledges, Manny pads etc.) if that matters

[mynameisnotjeff]

Indy aftermarket bushings are always a staple.
I had Doh-Dohs and they felt mushy.

[Mbrimson88]

Anyone use aftermarket bushings that aren't bones? Got a set of Indy forged hollows coming my way (been on Ace or Film for the last year) and wondering what people think work best. Definitely like the base level looseness of Ace and Film, by which I mean I can crank down the kingpin to be showing a thread or two at least and they still carve like crazy but have a stability that makes setting up for flicks and balancing manny tricks a lot easier... wondering if anything gets indy feeling similar.

I'm tiny at like 130lbs, skate mostly street (ledges, Manny pads etc.) if that matters

I am often surprised by how reasonable the stock Indy bushings are these days, especially considering being somewhat of an Indy lifer, the old stock bushings would not even get a stand on and I would be taking them off before I even stood on the board.

The Stage 11 trucks come with 90 duro and bounce back really well, almost right from go if you are not too heavy on your board and ease them in, eg first session just roll around on them feeling them out and more so carving than doing big tricks (even on flat) but if they do feel a touch too tight from go, cut a mm or so from the top bushing and they loosen up a whole lot more as well.

That said, I have a lifetime supply of the 92 duro low head bushings which I know and love, right from the first session, so all my trucks have those, as well as the aftermarket Indy bushings being really good and long lasting too.


Maybe try them as is at first and you might be surprised and not even change the bushings out as so many people I know have come to realise since they upgraded the stock bushings a couple of years back.

Indy aftermarket bushings are always a staple.
I had Doh-Dohs and they felt mushy.

100% agree there

[palelight]

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Anyone use aftermarket bushings that aren't bones? Got a set of Indy forged hollows coming my way (been on Ace or Film for the last year) and wondering what people think work best. Definitely like the base level looseness of Ace and Film, by which I mean I can crank down the kingpin to be showing a thread or two at least and they still carve like crazy but have a stability that makes setting up for flicks and balancing manny tricks a lot easier... wondering if anything gets indy feeling similar.

I'm tiny at like 130lbs, skate mostly street (ledges, Manny pads etc.) if that matters

[close]

I am often surprised by how reasonable the stock Indy bushings are these days, especially considering being somewhat of an Indy lifer, the old stock bushings would not even get a stand on and I would be taking them off before I even stood on the board.

The Stage 11 trucks come with 90 duro and bounce back really well, almost right from go if you are not too heavy on your board and ease them in, eg first session just roll around on them feeling them out and more so carving than doing big tricks (even on flat) but if they do feel a touch too tight from go, cut a mm or so from the top bushing and they loosen up a whole lot more as well.

That said, I have a lifetime supply of the 92 duro low head bushings which I know and love, right from the first session, so all my trucks have those, as well as the aftermarket Indy bushings being really good and long lasting too.


Maybe try them as is at first and you might be surprised and not even change the bushings out as so many people I know have come to realise since they upgraded the stock bushings a couple of years back.

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Indy aftermarket bushings are always a staple.
I had Doh-Dohs and they felt mushy.

[close]

100% agree there

Love the combo of the blue low top and stock orange barrel bottom. And to rosemaryBB, as a fellow skinny shit, that bushing combo is pretty awesome on Indy's. You don't feel like you have to focus all your body weight to get a good deliberate carve. Stock Indy's, though I love em, can have a real delayed response coming from Aces where you get spoiled with that immediate synched-up turn. 

[Kevve]

Does Ace bushings work well in indys?

I feel like my current Indy bushings doesnt have much rebound.

[Mbrimson88]

Does Ace bushings work well in indys?

I feel like my current Indy bushings doesnt have much rebound.

They can work, depending on how tight you have your trucks as they are a touch taller, but they still go on ok.

Conversely, some left over stock Indy bushings work well in Ace trucks too - did that the other day and they performed very well.


You can always rotate the bushings and see if that changes things at all.  If they are not cracked or coming apart, that has worked well in the past for other people I know.  Just put a line or dot on them before you move them, so you know where they were sitting and rotate them a 1/4 turn and see if that helps.

[rosemaryBB]

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Does Ace bushings work well in indys?

I feel like my current Indy bushings doesnt have much rebound.

[close]

They can work, depending on how tight you have your trucks as they are a touch taller, but they still go on ok.

Conversely, some left over stock Indy bushings work well in Ace trucks too - did that the other day and they performed very well.


You can always rotate the bushings and see if that changes things at all.  If they are not cracked or coming apart, that has worked well in the past for other people I know.  Just put a line or dot on them before you move them, so you know where they were sitting and rotate them a 1/4 turn and see if that helps.

First of all thanks to everyone for the solid info, stoked to see how I feel about these Indy's.

I happen to have some old Ace aftermarket bushings that I shaved down so I'll throw those in after I ride them stock and let everyone know how that felt, if I'm not feeling either of those I'll try some Indy aftermarkets.

Does anyone know if the bushings that come with some of the hollows are different duros or quality? Noticed that some of those pro model ones come with black stock bushings rather than the classic orange ones.

[palelight]

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Does Ace bushings work well in indys?

I feel like my current Indy bushings doesnt have much rebound.

[close]

They can work, depending on how tight you have your trucks as they are a touch taller, but they still go on ok.

Conversely, some left over stock Indy bushings work well in Ace trucks too - did that the other day and they performed very well.


You can always rotate the bushings and see if that changes things at all.  If they are not cracked or coming apart, that has worked well in the past for other people I know.  Just put a line or dot on them before you move them, so you know where they were sitting and rotate them a 1/4 turn and see if that helps.

[close]

First of all thanks to everyone for the solid info, stoked to see how I feel about these Indy's.

I happen to have some old Ace aftermarket bushings that I shaved down so I'll throw those in after I ride them stock and let everyone know how that felt, if I'm not feeling either of those I'll try some Indy aftermarkets.

Does anyone know if the bushings that come with some of the hollows are different duros or quality? Noticed that some of those pro model ones come with black stock bushings rather than the classic orange ones.

All stock Indy's are 90d regardless of colour, but there's definitely a material/manufacturing change once they moved operations overseas. Purely subjective, but I found the newer stock bushings in the two sets of forged hollows I've bought in the last two years to be pretty identical to the quality of aftermarkets. They feel the same (or maybe a smidge softer from jump) and have the same tooling marks the aftermarkets have.

[Mbrimson88]

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Does Ace bushings work well in indys?

I feel like my current Indy bushings doesnt have much rebound.

[close]

They can work, depending on how tight you have your trucks as they are a touch taller, but they still go on ok.

Conversely, some left over stock Indy bushings work well in Ace trucks too - did that the other day and they performed very well.


You can always rotate the bushings and see if that changes things at all.  If they are not cracked or coming apart, that has worked well in the past for other people I know.  Just put a line or dot on them before you move them, so you know where they were sitting and rotate them a 1/4 turn and see if that helps.

[close]

First of all thanks to everyone for the solid info, stoked to see how I feel about these Indy's.

I happen to have some old Ace aftermarket bushings that I shaved down so I'll throw those in after I ride them stock and let everyone know how that felt, if I'm not feeling either of those I'll try some Indy aftermarkets.

Does anyone know if the bushings that come with some of the hollows are different duros or quality? Noticed that some of those pro model ones come with black stock bushings rather than the classic orange ones.

[close]

All stock Indy's are 90d regardless of colour, but there's definitely a material/manufacturing change once they moved operations overseas. Purely subjective, but I found the newer stock bushings in the two sets of forged hollows I've bought in the last two years to be pretty identical to the quality of aftermarkets. They feel the same (or maybe a smidge softer from jump) and have the same tooling marks the aftermarkets have.

Yes, agree.

Interesting and curious that things slightly changed in the look of the bushings (no mention officially anywhere about it though) but I think people / team riders were wanting the stock bushings to actually work and were sick of having to change them straight out, so they finally fixed up the stock bushing formula and now they are great.* 

* If you like 90 duro that is, which are the most common nowdays, where once the norm was more up around 92 to 94.

[palelight]

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Does Ace bushings work well in indys?

I feel like my current Indy bushings doesnt have much rebound.

[close]

They can work, depending on how tight you have your trucks as they are a touch taller, but they still go on ok.

Conversely, some left over stock Indy bushings work well in Ace trucks too - did that the other day and they performed very well.


You can always rotate the bushings and see if that changes things at all.  If they are not cracked or coming apart, that has worked well in the past for other people I know.  Just put a line or dot on them before you move them, so you know where they were sitting and rotate them a 1/4 turn and see if that helps.

[close]

First of all thanks to everyone for the solid info, stoked to see how I feel about these Indy's.

I happen to have some old Ace aftermarket bushings that I shaved down so I'll throw those in after I ride them stock and let everyone know how that felt, if I'm not feeling either of those I'll try some Indy aftermarkets.

Does anyone know if the bushings that come with some of the hollows are different duros or quality? Noticed that some of those pro model ones come with black stock bushings rather than the classic orange ones.

[close]

All stock Indy's are 90d regardless of colour, but there's definitely a material/manufacturing change once they moved operations overseas. Purely subjective, but I found the newer stock bushings in the two sets of forged hollows I've bought in the last two years to be pretty identical to the quality of aftermarkets. They feel the same (or maybe a smidge softer from jump) and have the same tooling marks the aftermarkets have.

[close]

Yes, agree.

Interesting and curious that things slightly changed in the look of the bushings (no mention officially anywhere about it though) but I think people / team riders were wanting the stock bushings to actually work and were sick of having to change them straight out, so they finally fixed up the stock bushing formula and now they are great.* 

* If you like 90 duro that is, which are the most common nowdays, where once the norm was more up around 92 to 94.

100%. Before the change up I'd still run stocks as long as I could, because after the break-in they felt amazing, but they definitely had a shelf life - the flash marks from molding and the air bubbles definitely meant they were going to chunk out. But, the new ones haven't had the same degrading (for me), and they feel really damn good on day one.

[Kevve]

Expand Quote

Expand Quote

Does Ace bushings work well in indys?

I feel like my current Indy bushings doesnt have much rebound.

[close]

They can work, depending on how tight you have your trucks as they are a touch taller, but they still go on ok.

Conversely, some left over stock Indy bushings work well in Ace trucks too - did that the other day and they performed very well.


You can always rotate the bushings and see if that changes things at all.  If they are not cracked or coming apart, that has worked well in the past for other people I know.  Just put a line or dot on them before you move them, so you know where they were sitting and rotate them a 1/4 turn and see if that helps.

[close]

First of all thanks to everyone for the solid info, stoked to see how I feel about these Indy's.

I happen to have some old Ace aftermarket bushings that I shaved down so I'll throw those in after I ride them stock and let everyone know how that felt, if I'm not feeling either of those I'll try some Indy aftermarkets.

Does anyone know if the bushings that come with some of the hollows are different duros or quality? Noticed that some of those pro model ones come with black stock bushings rather than the classic orange ones.

The quality of the stock bushings is super good, they held up really well with just some bites from the washers after a year of use. Im 80 something kgs and Should have went with 92 or 96a instead maybe they would ve held Up better. But i really enjoyed the loose surfy turn!

For aftermarket bushings everyone seems to Love Bones as there is No break in time compared to indys witch takes a while to break in. Bones only do coned bushings tho so maybe go a duro higher than normal unless your a fan of super turny trucks.